Technical Help - Where this wire goes?

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Technical Help - Where this wire goes?

Thanks for the offer.

I hae tryied this with 2 options :

1) with that battery earth cable.

2) witout the battery earth cable , just start cable from the battery earth
to the engine block and another cable from the engine block to the body.

the cag get electricity but the code , airbag , temsensor
are still on.


attached pictures.
 

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ok i got the diagnostic tool and it show
the following error (inthe picture).

where i should look ?
thanks
 

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Have you already cleared the fault?.

The transponder aerial is around the entrance to the ignition switch where you put the key. I think you might have already taken it out and replaced it?

The code is saying the key code light is not activated by that fault which is a bit weird sounding to me.
 
no,
its in .
i will try to clear this error see if that helps.

another thing,
i can't diagnose the engine ecu,
please see in the picture
 

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it connected nice and snug :)
 

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I have changed the engine ecu and it looks good by the fact that the code key,water temp,airbag lights at the instrumental board are gone. :D

now i also can diagnose the engine ecu which i cound't before.
:)

but i can't get the car started. :confused:
the engine is cranking
no spark at the plugs.
no spark at the coil.

The crankshaft sensor (pulse senor) is connected.
I test it with multimiter by resistance Ohms and it shows that there is.
im not sure its a good test to verify it's condition.

Its seems that may be the case now ?

Also have fiat scantool and it shows no errors.
at the ecu,body and dashboard.

:eek:
 
its not the key if it turns over?

On my 2004 car with the coils unplugged, the rev counter will show about 150 revs per minute when cranking the engine. I imagine that will also show on multiecuscan.

Check you have 12 volts at the coils with the ignition on - that does not come from the ECU.

You should have 3.5 volts at the oxygen sensor - that does come from the ECU

Fuel pump running when you turn the ignition on?
 
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Great soon it will check that :)

the fuel pump is making it sound , bzzzzz
 
its not the key if it turns over?

On my 2004 car with the coils unplugged, the rev counter will show about 150 revs per minute when cranking the engine. I imagine that will also show on multiecuscan.

Check you have 12 volts at the coils with the ignition on - that does not come from the ECU.

You should have 3.5 volts at the oxygen sensor - that does come from the ECU

Fuel pump running when you turn the ignition on?

car will still crank if chip inside key is damaged it just wont start right?
 
It wount start but it will crank.

I proced with the test by :

1) testing the crank senson ohms , see in the picture.

2) dashboard light are good.

3) connected multimiter with earth cable to the cank sensor and positive
to the positive battery , i hear that in some modules that should make a
spark when the ignision key is on.
and it didn't.
4) crank the engine and notive the reve counter is not showing any movement.
 

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It wount start but it will crank.

I proced with the test by :

1) testing the crank senson ohms , see in the picture.

2) dashboard light are good.

3) connected multimiter with earth cable to the cank sensor and positive
to the positive battery , i hear that in some modules that should make a
spark when the ignision key is on.
and it didn't.
4) crank the engine and notive the reve counter is not showing any movement.

I am supposing you have a two wire sensor

My crank sensor produces sufficient power to flash a low power LED on and off. Each sensor is different but mine is 928ohm. Yours could be fine. When you crank the car you should get an AC volt reading easily detectable on the 20 volt range. mine produces 3.45V.

It is worthwhile cleaning the crank sensor and the wheel.

My sensor is marked with Bosch Germany, 485450A and 0 281210238

If you can get the number and make you can check the manufacturers resistance.

Have you removed the crankshaft pulley? is it refitted correctly? The notch has to be in the correct position for the sensor. The wheel has a hole which lines up with a raised part of the metal underneath. is yours like that and correctly fitted?
 
sure,
today i also cleaned the senson and the flaywheel.

i can do with firend help at the morning voltage test for the crank sensor wire
1 ill crank and the other test it.

the crankshaft pully is installed as it has alinment notch and can be installed only in the right position.

i will also try to look for partnumber and manufacture.

i think that it posible that the engine wiring loom has been damage ???
FUUUUUCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKKKK !!!!!!
 
sure,
today i also cleaned the senson and the flaywheel.

i can do with firend help at the morning voltage test for the crank sensor wire
1 ill crank and the other test it.

the crankshaft pully is installed as it has alinment notch and can be installed only in the right position.

i will also try to look for partnumber and manufacture.

i think that it posible that the engine wiring loom has been damage ???
FUUUUUCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKKKK !!!!!!

One step at a time. :) It is fairly easy to trace the wires back to the ECU plugs and find what is broken if that is the case.

Reading thru the forum it is possible the resistance of your sensor is too high. Did you get an exact replacement??
@flisko might be able to give you the correct resistance for the sensor for your ECU. So take a picture of the ECU label if you have not already done that

According to the haynes manual for the 1999 -2003 car your sensor resistance should be 1130 to 1350
 
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