Re: Punto 1.9 JTD 59kw refitting a new clutch

eolonano said:

.... and again:shrug::

when I'll put the bell housing in front of the engine, how do I centre the splines on the input shaft with the other ones on the clutch disk? do I have to turn manually the driveshaft ?

I'm asking because today I was trying to join the two pieces but there is that long bolt on the gearbox that goes in the hole near the starter motor, that cause problems.

The bolt is long, and I have very little room between the end of the gearbox and the lower cross member :chin:.........:bang:
(as in post nr. #20 , first photo).

Click to expand...

You know about using a round piece of wood that fits well in the hole on the engine side so you can get the clutch disk centred? Make the wood thicker where it goes thru the splines with some tape wrapped around it and do your best to get the disk in the middle by looking at the wood sticking out from different viewing angles before you tighten the clutch.

Yes, I know that trick....
I found out that I can do it in that way after I bought a clutch tool specific for that task :bang:.....thanks, anyway !

What I asked, but it's a bit difficult for me to be clear, is if the splines on the input shaft and disc friction are able to engage themselves when the are put together, or if it is necessary that I make the input shaft turn itself to properly engage.

I'm asking this because the bell housing is difficult to set properly, due to the little room (or no room at all) that the lower cross member gives me.

If you notice some mistake in english terms or so, please feel free to correct me.....

Thanks.

@judderbar

I don't understand why... but in my mail I found a post that I think it's from you, but I don't see that in the forum;

this one:

Are you talking about a headless bolt called a stud that is screwed already into the gearbox? You can unscrew that with two nuts locked onto it. Can you then refit that stud when the gearbox is together again working from outside? Otherwise with it out you can align the parts pull the box away again and refit?

Click to expand...

Yes, Yes, YES !!!!
That's the solution !....:idea:........and then...Ahhhh
Thanks Juddenbar:worship::hug:

:yeahthat:

I know the trick to remove a stud, but I didn't remove it because I supposed it was melted in the bell housing as a pin to centre engine and gearbox; without it, I gain 2-3 cm needed to easily accomplish the task.

thanks again, I'm going to try it now....

eolonano said:

@judderbar

I don't understand why... but in my mail I found a post that I think it's from you, but I don't see that in the forum;

this one:



Yes, Yes, YES !!!!
That's the solution !....:idea:........and then...Ahhhh
Thanks Juddenbar:worship::hug:

:yeahthat:

I know the trick to remove a stud, but I didn't remove it because I supposed it was melted in the bell housing as a pin to centre engine and gearbox; without it, I gain 2-3 cm needed to easily accomplish the task.

thanks again, I'm going to try it now....

Click to expand...

I edited that to remove the comment.

I was worried it would be a bit foolish to remove the stud if all that was needed was the alignment tool.

Good luck with the job.

I did it!
Even with that stud removed, it was hard enough and the room very very little.

I have to jack up the engine (confronted with is normal position) and not lower it down:
Only then I was able to align engine and gearbox.

A corner of the gearbox was on the lower cross member, and the engine was about 10/15cm higher than normal position.

Tomorrow I going to remount that poor thing....

I have a question:

The two bushes in two of the holes in the bell housing have to engage half and half between the engine block and the gearbox.
When I was mounting all together, I couldn't see if the two bushes have engaged properly or if they where pushed inside of one side of the holes.
It's an important matter or as long as the bell housing is aligned and mounted, I can ignore it?

eolonano said:

I have a question:

The two bushes in two of the holes in the bell housing have to engage half and half between the engine block and the gearbox.
When I was mounting all together, I couldn't see if the two bushes have engaged properly or if they where pushed inside of one side of the holes.
It's an important matter or as long as the bell housing is aligned and mounted, I can ignore it?

Click to expand...

If the bolts go in straight I would not worry about it.

Ok, now I can say that the clutch-thing goes very well .
After several miles, the car goes perfectly...

Thank you all, guys!!!

(by the way, the main title is a bit wrong: it's the 59kw, but I don't know if I can change it)

you cant edit that, click report this post to moderator and type what you want to change

how much you paid for clutch?

I didn't find neither an "edit" button or a "report" button on thread tool menu... or I have to do something when I reply ?

I don't know the price for the clutch: I bought a whole kit:

Valeo Dual mass flywheel + Valeo clutch + release bearing = 245€

why did you buy flywheel if only clutch went?

Because the flywheel was soaked in motor oil: I have had a leak from that Pierburg thing (I don't know the name in English) now solved.
It leaked for years, and the oil enter via starter motor and via the two holes on the gearbox inside the bell housing.
It was a mess. I couldn't clean the flywheel and I couldn't soak it in diesel fuel or similar...
So my choice was to change the whole thing....