Ziggy122 said:

That ISO adaptor is more the repairable with some heat shrink and solder

Ziggy

Click to expand...

Turns out the ISO adapter I ordered was incorrect. Really can't be arsed to faff around sending it back, etc. Time to get the soldering iron out.

So, I've noticed a couple of differences with my ISO connector compared to yours, which I'm guessing is due to a different make of stereo.
I've annotated a picture to show the two whose function I don't know. I'm guessing the orange/white one is another data cable of some kind and I don't know what the brown one on the end is.

So, I've removed the scotch connector and repaired the broken insulation, now all I need to do is get the piggyback fuse and run a cable up to the stereo plug, which conveniently already has a bullet connector

What you need is a Multi-meter or a 12v test lamp,
and test what 'Feeds are there to start with before adding more,


The wiring on the 'iso connector on your pic is confusing.,
3 live feeds ?


you shouid only need,
negative, 1 igniton -live and 1 permant-live.


the blue wire-is a amp remote feed, so it can be ignored if not adding an amp,


Yellow=memmory =constant live.

oldhammer said:

What you need is a Multi-meter or a 12v test lamp,
and test what 'Feeds are there to start with before adding more,


The wiring on the 'iso connector on your pic is confusing.,
3 live feeds ?


you shouid only need,
negative, 1 igniton -live and 1 permant-live.


the blue wire-is a amp remote feed, so it can be ignored if not adding an amp,


Yellow=memmory =constant live.

Click to expand...

Perhaps it's a bad picture.
My connector is exactly the same as the one shown in Ziggy122's video, except the orange/white cable (the one below the amp remote cable) and the brown cable (bottom right). Isn't it? Just wondering what they are.

Quick update.

So the miswiring caused the battery to be drained. Got the multimeter out and it was reading 2V!

For the past two hours I've been charging it carefully. It was a new battery so I was hoping it would be able to bounce back. It's currently up to just under 12V after putting about 1500 mAh into it and it seems to be able to hold that charge. It's gonna take ages though, as I can only charge it at 1A max with my charging equipment (not made for car batteries).

How much current should the battery be able to provide to start the car?

CMaughan96 said:

Quick update.

So the miswiring caused the battery to be drained. Got the multimeter out and it was reading 2V!

For the past two hours I've been charging it carefully. It was a new battery so I was hoping it would be able to bounce back. It's currently up to just under 12V after putting about 1500 mAh into it and it seems to be able to hold that charge. It's gonna take ages though, as I can only charge it at 1A max with my charging equipment (not made for car batteries).

How much current should the battery be able to provide to start the car?

Click to expand...

Im sure ive seen it said about 13-14

Why dont you buy a half decent battery charger. Only about £5 off ebay. Otherwise you might cause more damage

oXRUSSXo said:

Why dont you buy a half decent battery charger. Only about £5 off ebay. Otherwise you might cause more damage

Click to expand...

It's a decent charger, I've used it dozens of times. It can charge lead-acid batteries but it's not intended specifically for car batteries. The only impact of this is it will take longer, but I'm fairly certain it will cause no harm to the battery.

13-14 amps? Wow, that's a little more than I expected. Though, say if it takes one second to start the engine that would only draw about 4mAh from the battery... right?

Okay, it's all good. Charged the battery enough to start the engine, the alternator can do the rest.

I've disconnected the stereo for now until I can sort the wiring out. Just checked the current drawn whilst everything is off and it was 80mA.

That seems a little high to me? Is it?

Alright... sorry for the triple post, this thread hasn't been active for a while.

Before I go wiring things up and frying stuff, I just want to make sure I get it right.
Ziggy122, in your video, with the piggyback fuse, it looks like there's only one fuse in there? The one I got has 2 slots, are both needed (one for lighter, one for stereo) or can I do both through the one fuse?

Also, what current rating should the wire be? It's not a particularly high current, is it? It's just a signal?

CMaughan96 said:

Alright... sorry for the triple post, this thread hasn't been active for a while.

Before I go wiring things up and frying stuff, I just want to make sure I get it right.
@Ziggy122, in your video, with the piggyback fuse, it looks like there's only one fuse in there? The one I got has 2 slots, are both needed (one for lighter, one for stereo) or can I do both through the one fuse?

Also, what current rating should the wire be? It's not a particularly high current, is it? It's just a signal?

Click to expand...

The piggyback fuse has 2 slots
1 repowers the cig socket
1 powers the splice off it - to the stereo

I used twin core 11amp cable - (carry upto 22amp in thoery as i used both side)
But it has a 1amp fuse in the holder

So if anything did go wrong - the cable wont be an issue - the fuse will just blow and i'll loose my stereo and my DRL's as they both run off that 1amp fuse

Ziggy

Ziggy122 said:

The piggyback fuse has 2 slots
1 repowers the cig socket
1 powers the splice off it - to the stereo

I used twin core 11amp cable - (carry upto 22amp in thoery as i used both side)
But it has a 1amp fuse in the holder

So if anything did go wrong - the cable wont be an issue - the fuse will just blow and i'll loose my stereo and my DRL's as they both run off that 1amp fuse

Ziggy

Click to expand...

Okay, thanks. I only went and bought a standard piggyback fuse, rather than a small one! :bang:

Also, how on earth do you run the cable down to the fusebox? I was trying for a good half an hour yesterday, I just couldn't thread it through!

CMaughan96 said:

Okay, thanks. I only went and bought a standard piggyback fuse, rather than a small one! :bang:

Also, how on earth do you run the cable down to the fusebox? I was trying for a good half an hour yesterday, I just couldn't thread it through!

Click to expand...

As you look at the hole for radio the back left corner. If you push wire down that hole. The get in passenger footwell look up you should see it start coming through. Its a pain and very slow but once it starts it comes through quick