Technical Clutch replacement
- Thread starter Carolyn
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Technical Clutch replacement
hi,
chances are it's a Mk2 punto,
generally the 5 speed petrols are 2 to 3 hours
£200 job apparently,
Charlie
chances are it's a Mk2 punto,
generally the 5 speed petrols are 2 to 3 hours
£200 job apparently,
Charlie
maybe it IS a Mk 2!!!!!!! Is that a Main dealer rate or a back street garage please? Many thanks.
I can imagine some of us DIYers will be taking about 2 to 3 days just to get some of the bolts off
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I can imagine some of us DIYers will be taking about 2 to 3 days just to get some of the bolts off
tru dat
W-reg will be mk2, i will move thread for you in moment.
I would set aside 6-8 hours to do this on a driveway with axle stands and trolley jacks etc to man-handle the box out the bay and back in again.. Would be alot easier in a proper workshop with a lifts, gearbox stand to lower the box out and put back in etc.
Garage should be able to do this whole job in about 3-4 hours in my view. If you go ahead with a garage make sure they are replacing it with a clutch kit (i.e. the clutch plate and the thrust bearing and not just the clutch plate on its own). And bearing in mind how cheap replacements are i would consider getting the pressure plate changed for new one too as its coming off anyway for the clutch swap.
I would ask how much they are going to charge for parts and labour separately as well, you will more than likely get source parts cheaper online and that way you know they are using good quality parts and not the cheapest they can find and marking it up loads for more profit. Checkout Shop4Parts and ECC for parts.
I would set aside 6-8 hours to do this on a driveway with axle stands and trolley jacks etc to man-handle the box out the bay and back in again.. Would be alot easier in a proper workshop with a lifts, gearbox stand to lower the box out and put back in etc.
Garage should be able to do this whole job in about 3-4 hours in my view. If you go ahead with a garage make sure they are replacing it with a clutch kit (i.e. the clutch plate and the thrust bearing and not just the clutch plate on its own). And bearing in mind how cheap replacements are i would consider getting the pressure plate changed for new one too as its coming off anyway for the clutch swap.
I would ask how much they are going to charge for parts and labour separately as well, you will more than likely get source parts cheaper online and that way you know they are using good quality parts and not the cheapest they can find and marking it up loads for more profit. Checkout Shop4Parts and ECC for parts.
moved from mk1, bump to the top
A friend of mine last year changed one in a older mk2 at work on a Saturday morning in 2 hours and he's a vw/audi specialist
When I did my diesel clutch on axel stands It took about 9-10hr but the diesel is a much harder job anyway
When I did my diesel clutch on axel stands It took about 9-10hr but the diesel is a much harder job anyway
Andy, I have a few questions on doing the clutch change if you dont mind.
Is there a reason why people are going to the trouble of undoing the cv boot clips and separating the spider, and risking contamination, rather than just pulling out the drive shaft as one piece? Seems to me it does not take much contamination to create problems later on - plus the risk you dont reseal as well as the factory.
Do you know if there are reliable methods to redo the engine to manifold seal that do not involve getting the particular gasket set for the punto?
Thanks in advance!
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Sometimes getting the drive shaft cups out is a real pain in the arse.....
I had trouble with 1 side always getting stuck and then hard to get back in
The clip is somewhat a bugger
As a result for time vs money, its alot quick and easier to just cut the bands and put a plastic bag over the 2 exposed ends
Resealing is just a case of ensuring the new clip is fitted securly to prevent ingress of dirt and escaping grease
I've never had an issue where it causes more of an issue tbh....
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If we are onabout the 1.2 8v manifold seal exhaust side - they are fine to be re-used
Inlet i've seen also to be used
It depends on the condition on the seals, and if they are in a reusable state
Ziggy
Thanks Ziggy. I can see the reason for doing it that way now which is fine. It just seemed like asking for trouble doing it by myself trying to remove and refit a grease covered scrupously clean bearing protected by plastic bags and rubber bands surrounding by granite dust and sharp objects.
Yes i meant the exhaust manifold gasket. I have the 16V but i suppose it cannot be much different.
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I not ever done it on a punto tbh but on a cento i don't even take the driveshaft off the car - just undo the hub from the strut on the gear box side, pull the top outward and the driveshaft pops out the cup, wrap it in cling film or plastic bag and then cable tie to hold it out the way. And just leave the other driveshaft as it is and it pops out the cup as the gearbox is lowered. Done it on a driveway on cento's lots of times and done 10s of thousands of miles after and never had an issue with the bearings on the spider - you just have to be methodical and make sure you are not filthy when handling the shaft but really you don't have to touch the greased parts at all during the process so as long as you don't drop it on the floor or kick a load of dust up while its hanging uncovered then your fine.
But really its not a huge deal to sort if you had got it dirty, properly wash it (and the cup while the gearbox is out) and then re greasing once the box is back in and if you did it that way you may as well stick new CVs on at the same time..
But really its not a huge deal to sort if you had got it dirty, properly wash it (and the cup while the gearbox is out) and then re greasing once the box is back in and if you did it that way you may as well stick new CVs on at the same time..
Thanks Blu, so you are taking the drive shafts out of the cups at the wheel end and splitting the inner cv joint/spider - but do not have to pull the remains of the driveshaft from the car?
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Should go without saying but.................it's a very good time to check the input shaft bearing and seal and any other seal in sight.
The 1.3 diesel drive shafts unbolt at the gearbox so I'm not the one to ask on that front, when my friend did his in 2 hours he didn't remove the drive shafts at all from the gearbox just undid the hub nut so very little risk of contamination
No I am leaving the driveshaft attached to the hub and pulling it out he cups on the diff and then cable ties up round the steering rack to hold the shaft up and backward so i can take the box out and it not being the the other way... I stick a few cable ties round the other shaft (engine side) but not tight just so it does fall when the boxs comes out. So splitting at inner CV, and leaving the outers well alone.
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everytime i've done the gearbox, i've left outers' alone too and only tampered with the inners
I often put a dollop of fresh grease in there just incase i did mop it up with my hair
Yet in the garage im at - we take them out
Ziggy
I am getting very confused. Mainly because i do not know what the cups are and i do not know my arse from my face at the moment.
But Blu you are removing the inner cv rubber boot and splitting it there leaving the other part in the gearbox but leaving the rest of the drive shaft in place?
Andy, are you saying it is possible to remove the gearbox with the driveshafts still whole and still on the gearbox??
>>when my friend did his in 2 hours he didn't remove the drive shafts at all from the gearbox just undid the hub nut so very little risk of contamination
You sure do seem to be saying that
So if he did it in record time what are the hard parts about what the did that nobody else wants to do??
Mainly because i do not know what the cups are and i do not know my arse from my face at the moment.But Blu you are removing the inner cv rubber boot and splitting it there leaving the other part in the gearbox but leaving the rest of the drive shaft in place?
Andy, are you saying it is possible to remove the gearbox with the driveshafts still whole and still on the gearbox??
>>when my friend did his in 2 hours he didn't remove the drive shafts at all from the gearbox just undid the hub nut so very little risk of contamination
You sure do seem to be saying that
So if he did it in record time what are the hard parts about what the did that nobody else wants to do??
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from Left to right
There is the hub nut attached to the outer joint Aka CV joint
Then there is the driveshaft
The driveshaft goes into the Differential cup / output cup / drive cup
The rubber gaitor on that is what people are simply unclipping and pulling off
Inside is whats called a tripod bearing 3 bearings on a triangular setup basically
Ziggy
from Left to right
There is the hub nut attached to the outer joint Aka CV joint
Then there is the driveshaft
The driveshaft goes into the Differential cup / output cup / drive cup
The rubber gaitor on that is what people are simply unclipping and pulling off
Inside is whats called a tripod bearing 3 bearings on a triangular setup basically
Ziggy
Thanks that was very helpful. I thought there was an inner and outer cv joint!
