I now have this car due to the ex taking the EVO but back to business. The car has 119k miles and full service history but it runs rough. I can only describe it as when a motorbike goes onto reserve almost as though it is starved of fuel.? It starts ok and drives but does have a tendency to chug a bit which is more prevalent when you are cruising at 30 mph on a small amount of throttle. It also hunts on tick over between 450-800 rpm ( it has cut out once) but settles a bit after a few seconds. I have changed the plugs and HT leads but to no effect. It is a bit hesitant sometimes when pulling away but it runs ok if you put your foot down and runs at higher speeds fine. I am wondering if it is related to lifetime fuel filter/pump ? A sensor or is it throttle body/potentiometer or pedal fly by wire box ??? Any help or hints would be much appreciated as I really like these cars and it is all I can afford at the minute and want to put it right !!
Technical Punto 1.2 16V ELX Poor Running
- Thread starter KAWAREX
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Technical Punto 1.2 16V ELX Poor Running
Hi,
is the engine management light coming on?
is the engine management light coming on?
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Id be looking to blame the coil then
As a coil pack breaks down under high load
And then usually is fine higher up rev wise
So id look to try a donor coil to see whats going on
As a coil pack breaks down under high load
And then usually is fine higher up rev wise
So id look to try a donor coil to see whats going on
Hi, thanks for the replies. No engine management light on at all so I haven't tried to get any codes checked. I don't have access to a donor coil so I would have to buy one. Any idea how much these are or where's best to get one or even two? I had a MK1 that had the coils fail but it totally failed as in a misfire continuously and the engine management light came on ?
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you could go to a scrapyard explain your situation, and ask the owner if you could try another used coil pack and see if it will solve your problem, if it does you will buy it
There is one round here who might and another I know of definitely won't, they won't even let you near the cars now. Might be worth a punt on ebay for a used one. Ran fine again from cold again this morning no issues till it got warmer??
On the Mk2 it's safer to swap out the pair (fragile ECU). Beware white box coils.
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had same on my mk1 a year ago, ran fine until it got warm then it start to judder- stutter, replaced both coil packs with used ones and still works to this day
mk1 and mk2 coil packs are the same
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i think white box are non original parts, just connect ht leads themsame way they were before in to coil packs
if its is a miss-fire..eml light shouid come on or atleast flicker on
is it loosing any coolant?
(only one coil on 16v)
is it loosing any coolant?
(only one coil on 16v)
The plug leads are into one big Black unit with all the leads in it. There is no EML light on at all, nothing and there is no coolant loss, does feel like a head gasket failure as I have on other cars before ?? Could be between cylinders ...hope not !!
Have alook inside the throat of the throttle body..see if'its gunked up,
Take airbox off..and start it up in the dark' and see if there is any sighn of Ark'ing.
Take airbox off..and start it up in the dark' and see if there is any sighn of Ark'ing.
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That's a good idea Oldhammer, i'll give that a try. never thought of it to be fair. I did try getting the air intake off today but ran out of daylight it is held on by it's original non tamper clip. I did spray some carb cleaner in there and then ran around in it but to no avail
Another thing you couid try is..cleaning the MAP sensor'.
but you have to be careful what you use to clean them with..
but you have to be careful what you use to clean them with..
You might be best to invest in some kkl leads & Multi-ecuscan.
MAP SENSOR DRIVABILITY SYMPTOMS
Anything that interferes with the MAP sensor's ability to monitor the pressure differential may upset the fuel mixture and ignition timing. This includes a problem with the MAP sensor itself, grounds or opens in the sensor wiring circuit, and/or vacuum leaks in the intake manifold (airflow sensor systems) or hose that connects the sensor to the engine.
Typical driveability symptoms that may be MAP related include:
* Surging.
* Rough idle.
* A rich fuel condition, which may cause spark plug fouling.
* Detonation due to too much spark advance and a lean fuel ratio.
* Loss of power and/or fuel economy due to retarded timing and an excessively rich fuel ratio.
A vacuum leak will reduce intake vacuum and cause the MAP sensor to indicate a higher than normal load on the engine. The computer will try to compensate by richening the fuel mixture and retarding timing -- which hurts fuel economy, performance and emissions.
MAP SENSOR CHECKS
First, make sure engine manifold vacuum is within specifications at idle. If vacuum is unusually low due to a vacuum leak, retarded ignition timing, an exhaust restriction (clogged converter), or an EGR leak (EGR valve not closing at idle).
A low intake vacuum reading or excessive backpressure in the exhaust system can trick the MAP sensor into indicating there is a load on the engine. This may result in a rich fuel condition.
A restriction in the air intake (such as a plugged air filter), on the other hand, may produce higher than normal vacuum readings. This would result in a load low indication from the MAP sensor and possibly a lean fuel condition.
A good MAP sensor should read barometric air pressure when the key is turned on before the engine starts. This value can be read on a scan tool and should be compared to the actual barometric pressure reading to see if they match. Your local weather channel or website should be able to tell you the current barometric pressure reading.
Check the sensor's vacuum hose for kinks or leaks. Then use a hand-held vacuum pump to check the sensor itself for leaks. The sensor should hold vacuum. Any leakage calls for replacement.
An outright failure of the MAP sensor, loss of the sensor signal due to a wiring problem, or a sensor signal that is outside the normal voltage or frequency range will usually set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and turn on the Check Engine light.
MAP SENSOR DRIVABILITY SYMPTOMS
Anything that interferes with the MAP sensor's ability to monitor the pressure differential may upset the fuel mixture and ignition timing. This includes a problem with the MAP sensor itself, grounds or opens in the sensor wiring circuit, and/or vacuum leaks in the intake manifold (airflow sensor systems) or hose that connects the sensor to the engine.
Typical driveability symptoms that may be MAP related include:
* Surging.
* Rough idle.
* A rich fuel condition, which may cause spark plug fouling.
* Detonation due to too much spark advance and a lean fuel ratio.
* Loss of power and/or fuel economy due to retarded timing and an excessively rich fuel ratio.
A vacuum leak will reduce intake vacuum and cause the MAP sensor to indicate a higher than normal load on the engine. The computer will try to compensate by richening the fuel mixture and retarding timing -- which hurts fuel economy, performance and emissions.
MAP SENSOR CHECKS
First, make sure engine manifold vacuum is within specifications at idle. If vacuum is unusually low due to a vacuum leak, retarded ignition timing, an exhaust restriction (clogged converter), or an EGR leak (EGR valve not closing at idle).
A low intake vacuum reading or excessive backpressure in the exhaust system can trick the MAP sensor into indicating there is a load on the engine. This may result in a rich fuel condition.
A restriction in the air intake (such as a plugged air filter), on the other hand, may produce higher than normal vacuum readings. This would result in a load low indication from the MAP sensor and possibly a lean fuel condition.
A good MAP sensor should read barometric air pressure when the key is turned on before the engine starts. This value can be read on a scan tool and should be compared to the actual barometric pressure reading to see if they match. Your local weather channel or website should be able to tell you the current barometric pressure reading.
Check the sensor's vacuum hose for kinks or leaks. Then use a hand-held vacuum pump to check the sensor itself for leaks. The sensor should hold vacuum. Any leakage calls for replacement.
An outright failure of the MAP sensor, loss of the sensor signal due to a wiring problem, or a sensor signal that is outside the normal voltage or frequency range will usually set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and turn on the Check Engine light.
Map -sensor is on inlet manifold.
