Ok so I"ve had my 2002 1.2 elx a few months since I"ve owned it I"ve been aware of the barrell being difficult to turn even when wiggling the steering lock, i've had the barrel out & cleaned it with wd40 & for a short time it worked ok but now its got progressively worse, I do have a replacement barrel that I fitted but when the old key was put near the ignition it would not start.

Whilst I can get a second hand working edu/lock set from the bay for £100 is it something I can fit or is there any other cheaper options I can do to get it sorted?


Thanks in advance.

Jim

Which bit of the barrel did you replace?

Just a thought -- maybe the new key and the old key are confusing issues (the codebox is receiving both signals)?

Easy enough test -- get a dumb key cut to match the ignition barrel. Then see what effect the old key has. If it starts, remove the chip from the old key, implant it into the "new" key.

I take it the dash is showing that the immobiliser has been triggered?

HI Fingers,

I swapped out the tumbler & the imobiliser light came on, At present the original tumblers in again and was working fairly ok for the last few weeks. Now the ignition key won't turn at all & the parking lights are on lol, Should I still try to get a new key cut? I"ve disconnected the battery to stop it going fat for the time being until I get the ignition sorted this won't cause any issues with the car retaining its milage etc ?

Jim

Worth a go. You should be able to get a dumb key cut for less than a tenner. But make sure the leads to the code box are intact.

Quick final question will it cause an issue with the battery disconnected over night or should I connect it back up ?

Jimbodiddly said:

Quick final question will it cause an issue with the battery disconnected over night or should I connect it back up ?

Click to expand...

no it shouldnt cause a problem, disconnect as you wish

Thanks Rocky, disconnected the battery, then reconnected it and hour later to give it one more try at getting the key to turn, finally got it the ket to mark to start & its seems to be better however I"m going to get a dumb key cut to tomorrow to see if that resolves it.

Jim

Well in the end I swapped the knackered tumblr for my replacement one I got from ebay which I then got a spare dumb key cut & then taped the original key inside the steering column popped the fascia back on & sorted new key works fine as does immobiliser only cost £13 in total £3 for a second hand tumbler of ebay & £10 for a dumb key to be cut.

Thanks for everyones help.

Cheers Jim

I think that means you've bypassed the immobiliser and there may be insurance implications

iwouidnt recomend this on a punto,

considering the barrel housing is 92% plastic,

id invest in a alarm/imob atleast

Easy enough to (carefully) remove the chip from the old key, insert into the new one, glue. Insurance happy, car works, get another key cloned, all is hunky dory.

Go to you friendly local fiat dealership and explain you need a new ignition barrel, most dealers can supply a new barrel to match the key you already have or supply a kit which you need to assemble to match your key.

This way you can fix the dodgy barrel and keep using your secure chipped key without compromising security

Most dealers will charge about £20-30 for such an item however its far cheaper than loosing your car through theft and better than having to have multiple keys for the same car

Thanks for the info guys, In the end this morning I just carefully removed the transponder from the key that was under the steering column & inserted it in the new key I had cut yesterday, so car starts wonderfully & is safely immobilised.

Next stop get the cat replaced ho hum ..

Cheers Jim

AndyRKett said:

Go to you friendly local fiat dealership and explain you need a new ignition barrel, most dealers can supply a new barrel to match the key you already have or supply a kit which you need to assemble to match your key.

This way you can fix the dodgy barrel and keep using your secure chipped key without compromising security

Most dealers will charge about £20-30 for such an item however its far cheaper than loosing your car through theft and better than having to have multiple keys for the same car

Click to expand...

sounds like a great plan..however there is something wrong ( tired) with ALL my locks with the 1 x cheap copy key.

so if I buy a complete USED lock set, and move the chip from my working key into the new ign key, are there any potential issues..
2001 sporting . (no working alarm or Central locking)

varesecrazy said:

sounds like a great plan..however there is something wrong ( tired) with ALL my locks with the 1 x cheap copy key.

so if I buy a complete USED lock set, and move the chip from my working key into the new ign key, are there any potential issues..
2001 sporting . (no working alarm or Central locking)

Click to expand...

Using either the chassis number of the mechanical code for your car (held by the dealer), you can get a perfect key created for your car that is as good as the one the car originally had and i do not think they are very expensive. About 30 pound when created by an auto locksmith?

Changing all of the locks must be a fairly time consuming job and is going to cost the same amount anyway?

varesecrazy said:

sounds like a great plan..however there is something wrong ( tired) with ALL my locks with the 1 x cheap copy key.

so if I buy a complete USED lock set, and move the chip from my working key into the new ign key, are there any potential issues..
2001 sporting . (no working alarm or Central locking)

Click to expand...

If it's iffy in all the locks then most likely the key being worn. If you want PM me your address and either the code on the side of your airbag lock barrel. Or a pic of your key and I'll drop one in the post for you cut to the original spec.

thanks,
I had suspected the key.. so got my local "generalist" to cut a £6 slave key

he said it showed no obvious wear..I thought that.. basically in the ign lock, the key goes IN but doesn't turn..you have to withdraw key @1 mm then it'll turn ok, so we got the blank cut with the profile @ 1 mm off-set, still exactly the same in ALL the locks..??

so I'm left wondering if it's the actual key profile is inaccurate..,
oh the joys of old cars with just the 1 key..

I'll leave it for now, as the car is currently apart for MOT work, but once back on the road, I'm going to go through it properly

Charlie

If you have an aftermarket key then its likely to be Silca or JMA profile reference on the key should be GT15r for Silca or FI-13 for JMA. Its easy enough to check if the key is worn if you have a caliper to measure with. The key has 9 cuts and only 3 different depths specs are in the pic. The shoulder of the key should be perfectly square often they get cut at a angle when people are copying keys so they don't sit properly in the lock.