I have a 06 1.2 Active which has started to develop a few power steering problems. I've searched through these threads but none of them seem to have the exact problem that I'm having so I'm asking the question. When stationary with the engine on, if you move the steering wheel a tiny bit to the left or right I can hear and feel a grinding/juddering/creaking on the wheel. If I turn it further the wheel feels ok. This had been happening for about a week then all of a sudden the other night my steering light came on and I had to develop popeye arms to get round the bends. After a restart it was ok again (apart from the grinding/juddering/creaking wheel)

It's light has been on and off since. My question really is: do I need a new column or will a second hand steering motor and ECU do the trick?

Oh, and what do I need to look out for when buying one off T'bay and fitting it myself?

Thanks

Get the battery tested to rule it out but this does sound more serious

That Grinding - crunchy - Juddery feeling is the Motor

with all this cold weather that has just passed, condensation has managed to form in your car
Not uncommon as you have had the car hot - opened the door - got out - the cold air has been sucked in

Anyway - I had that same feeling, and as a result Kept making the EPS Warning light coming on - and yes Popeye in me had to start driving
(its actually more fun i think to drive without it - can feel the road better)
Anyway - after finding the Motor Cold and damp
I did the following

- Take the plastic Covers off from around the Steering Coloumn
- Release the Metal Cover Plate that keeps the ECU cables safe
- started the Engine and activated the City Mode
City Mode uses More amps to make the Steering motor work better
So more amps = More heat really, not alot, but better then nothing
Get your Otherhalfs Hairdrier out to the car (extension cable needed)
and Spend a Good 20+ (good 30mins if you want)
Gently Heating up the ECU cables and the Motor Unit
keeping the warm for as long as possible, giving time for any moisture in there to dry out
The ECU has to be done very carefully, Motors get warm on there own, the ECU shouldnt need to get too hot, so just be careful just heating it up (Focus more on the motor then the ECU)
And once a good heating session has been done
switch off engine, and remove cables from ECU
Dry the Cables and the ports out on the ECU (again been careful)

And once all dry - Get some contact Spray cleaner, and just make sure they are clean before refitting, it'll dry quickly as its got ethanol typa stuff in it
Cheat and use hairdrier if you like to dry any fluid from spray up

refit the cables
Engine On - test to see if it worked, if not try again, if it doesn't work after 2 times, its probably not moisture issue

Now as yes it did cure my problem, it didnt do so straight away
I had todo several Turns on the wheel with it Juddering / Fighting back from lock to lock
and after a few runs left to right the wheel started to get light again like it should as City was also still on
The EPS light didnt come back on I just get the odd fault with the light coming on now due to my nackered battery

Putting car heaters on as well helped - but it'll soon get very hot and toasty in there

Silicone Packets around the coloumn also helps as well when it comes to keeping the moisture away

Hope this has helped

Ziggy

Could there also be a water leak that's pushing up moisture levels?

WhiteSei said:

Could there also be a water leak that's pushing up moisture levels?

Click to expand...

Heater Matrix?

Mine was condensation my motor was covered like a person covered in lots of beads of sweat

Silica Packets meant this year the fault hadn't returned

Ziggy

The weather here has been really warm for a week so any moisture in the car would have to be continually topped up to affect the electrics. e.g. heater leak.