Tuning Induction Kit (THE THREAD)

Currently reading:
Tuning Induction Kit (THE THREAD)

Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
17,805
Points
2,534
Location
masturbation
Right there are so many threads of people asking the same questions about induction kits so in an attempt to cut down these threads I am making one amster one :)

This thread is information on induction kits for mk2 punto's


1.2 8V

Focus Induction Kit


attachment.php


This kit costs around £40 and can be purchased from ebay by typing in "Focus induction kit". You will need to buy a bit of piping or tube to fit the breather pipe to the appropriate engine component.

This kit will give you a deeper noise and a minimal increase in performance.

There is a guide to fitting this kit here:
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-guides/157789-fitting-focus-induction-kit-8v-1-2-punto.html

GSR Induction Kit


F39i.jpg


This kit costs £159 and can be ordered from GSR direct their website link is here: http://www.gsrengineering.com/engineering/pages/productsbycar/fiat/fiat_pun_induction.htm

You will need to speak to Peter who is a member on here called "oldSchool". If you have trouble conatcting him please post in here and someone should be able to help you out. This kit offers a better noise than the standard air filter and will also offer much better performance gains which have been tested on an RR.

The kit can be ftted by the owner of the car but it can be fitted by Peter himself if you live near and he is feeling genorous or if you go to an RR day.

The results of the above two kits being tested can be seen below:

focus_v_gsr_.jpg


1.2 16V

GSR Induction Kit

There is a kit available for the 1.2 16v from GSR as well this can be found on the same website above and should be ordered from Peter as mentioned above.

F10i.jpg


The kit is priced at £177 and can be fitted by Peter as mentioned above!

This kit is available for most Fiats so please check out the website if you require one for your vehichle. (Please do not ask questions about other models in this thread)

As per usual I have probably missed loads out but will add more to this when I think of more :) Please add or ask any induction related questions (y)
 
Sticky! Worth mentioning that this is only mk2/mk2b applicable (as Captain Mike has already said)

mk1 Puntos

How not to do mk1 induction
K_N2.jpg

Sticking the filter immediately above the throttle body is a guarantee of warm air. Note that this is supposed to be cold-air induction, and so this system will actually perform worse than the stock airbox (even with that cold-feed pipe).

The Focus Induction Kit
These usually have a 75mm bore to connect to the throttle body, the 8v mk1 Puntos have a 125mm bore (bigger since it needs room for the single-point injector). This would require much fabrication and imagination to get this to work well.

8v induction
GSR8v.jpg

The GSR kit positions the filter cone behind the battery, a naturally cold and dry position in the engine bay, giving proven dyno-verified gains. The silicone pipes are shaped to provide optimum airflow to the engine. Available here

16v induction
GSR16v.jpg

Filter located low-down in the engine bay where the air is cold, but still dry. Again, proven gains with this kit.

8v Turbo
short with good flow, easy to diy these
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mike's GSR picture -

GSR8v.jpg


The Cinquecento tuning guys say that the intake elbow on top of the throttle body is very restrictive and its one of the first things they junk. However, GSR keep it in place. Yet more stuff to ponder.
 
DIY Induction kits

It's worth noting that if you are planning to make your own, there's are fundamental theories behind induction tuning you should be aware of. I'm not going to go into massive detail because, generally speaking, the type of people who want more power from a 1.2 aren't the type who care about things like this (/me dons flame suit). That aside...

Stock intakes are basically tuned for a compromise of torque and power. A long, narrow, bendy induction pipe will result in good torque low down but if too narrow, can restrict flow at the top end, sapping power. A short, wide pipe will give you plenty of flow at the top end but you will loose torque at the bottom end and thus everyday driveability (you'll have to rev it harder and change gear more often).

If you are seriously interested in making your own, you should start looking into pulse tuning which is a way of creating an effect similar to that of forced induction by having various elements of the induction system specific sizes and distances apart - ie distance from throttle body to valve head, plenum chamber volume, induction pipe length etc. The inside of the induction hose should also be as smooth as possible - ie don't use cheap flexi pipes.

A quick note about resonators - they're not there just to suppres noise, the are also there to add to the overall induction length - even if air doesn't flow directly though them. It's all about pressure waves travelling at the speed of sound and getting them to arrive and depart at the right time ;)

It's also worth mentioning that more often than not, an induction kit is a waste of time without a re-map - which I believe had been done on the car dyno'd above to get those figures? Also, oldschool is no longer a member here but can be contacted via: http://www.gsrengineering.com
 
Last edited:
In most cases the tuned length is within the plenum chamber. Some very high revving engines actually have velocity stacks - aka venturis - inside the chamber. On these, the tube to the filter just has to big enough to not restrict the airflow.

Some sports bikes have a short stack with another movable stack sitting above so the correct tuned length can be used according to engine revs. Its like the intake version of Yamaha's EXUP exhaust valve.
 
In most cases the tuned length is within the plenum chamber. Some very high revving engines actually have velocity stacks - aka venturis - inside the chamber. On these, the tube to the filter just has to big enough to not restrict the airflow.

Some sports bikes have a short stack with another movable stack sitting above so the correct tuned length can be used according to engine revs. Its like the intake version of Yamaha's EXUP exhaust valve.

True but I know from personal experience that larger throttle bodies and varying lengths / bores of intake piping can make a substantial difference. E.g. for laugh I decided to stick a Bravo 1.6 body (around 48mm IIRC?) on my Mk1 Sporting with a filter directly clipped directly to it. It was pretty good above 4/5k, flat as a pancake below :p
 
Throttle Body Mods / Upgrades

This isn't strictly related to induction "kits" but it is related to induction and should serve as a rough guide for those looking into bike carbs, individual throttle bodies or even just upgrading the stock throttle body to one from a different model....

What is the best throttle body diameter?
Factors influencing size are; Power output, RPM, cylinder head design, cylinder capacity, position of the throttle body in the inlet tract and position of the injector.

Choice of bore size is a balanced compromise resulting from the following;
1) A larger bore leads to lower flow resistance, but obeying the laws of diminishing returns.
2) A smaller bore leads to better throttle control and response (never underestimate) and improved fuel mixing.
3) The system should be considered in total - from (at least) trumpet flange to cylinder and proportioned accordingly.

Basic references for BHP per cylinder, assuming ca 120mm from butterfly to valve head and a max of 9,000 rpm are:

Up to 30 - 30mm
up to 33 - 32mm
up to 39 - 35mm
up to 46 - 38mm
up to 51 - 40mm
up to 56 - 42mm
Up to 65 - 45mm
up to 74 - 48mm
up to 80 - 50mm
up to 87 - 52mm
up to 93 - 54mm.

These power figures may be increased by up to 10% in a purpose - designed and well proportioned system.
As butterfly to valve distance increases, butterfly size will need to increase in proportion to system taper and vice versa.
Lower revving engines and those with injectors placed before the butterfly will generally accept a larger body.

That quote is from Jenvey who are the leading manufacturers of throttle bodies in the UK and there's some other useful info on their FAQ page.

Finally, there is also the throttle body grooving, stolen from cylinder head grooving. Supposedly a grove cut into a stock throttle body at the right place can do wonders. Not tried it myself and I'm not convinced but might be worth a shot.
 
Last edited:
I want more power!

Again, not strictly induction kit related but this is probably the first place people will come when looking for more power...

In short, an induction kit will do sod all. If you're looking for more power, you've bought the wrong car. Naturally aspirated engines provide small gains for large sums of money. The most you are ever likely to see from a small, NA engine is around 30-40bhp and that's with a few grand being thrown at it.

For any gains, you will need...

  • Induction Kit! :p
  • Camshafts
  • Higher flowing exhaust manifold
  • Balanced, lightend and steel bottom end
  • Free flowing exhaust and race cat
  • Valve train modifications
  • Porting and polishing
  • Standalone ECU and loom
  • A day on a chassis / engine dyno
  • ...plus uprated brakes, suspensions etc.

In short, save your pennies, deal with the frustration and buy a car with more potential - like a GT. Or do an engine swap - the Rover K-Series is a very light engine when fully dressed and in VVC guise is good for 160BHP.
 
The Focus Induction Kit, What is the diameter of the hose that goes over the Throttle Body/ injector.

Any details on Mk1's?
 
Back
Top