Brake Pad replacement, Fluid renewal and Rear Cylinder replacement.

tarbyonline

Parts you will need:
Set of Brake Pads
1L Bottle of DOT4 Brake&Clutch Fluid
Possibly a pair of Rear Brake Cylinders
Emery Cloth and Copper Grease
An Assistant (ideally two assistants)

Firstly loosen the bolts on the front road wheels and jack the car up on to axle stands...

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Then remove the front roadwheels and slacken the bleed screw (8mm) on the first caliper by half a turn - it is located under a rubber protective cover towards the rear of the caliper.

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Using a large G-clamp between the outer-most pad and the back of the caliper piston, tighten it to force the piston into its most inward position and expell the fluid within the piston.

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Now re-tighten the bleed screw (not too tight - they snap easily!) See the extra space we've created to accomodate the new, thicker pads...

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Now to replace the pads... Remove the R-clip and pull out the pin...

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Lift it up and remove the old pads...

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Use emery cloth to clean the two grooves on the front and the two at the back that the pads will sit in. Put a small amount of copper grease in these grooves to allow the pads to slide freely...

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Insert the new pads and push the pin and R-clip back into place...

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Loosen the bleed screw again. Remove the reservoir cap and have your assistant pump the brake pedal until all the fluid is expelled. The reservoir should now be empty - fill it up with new fluid. If you have a second assistant, have them keep an eye on the reservoir and top up as necessary for the next part of the process - if not, you'll have to cover that aswell. Your assistant should keep pumping the brake pedal to pump the new fluid into the brake lines. When the fluid starts flowing smoothly out of the bleed screw and is no longer spitting, have the assistant do one final full stroke of the brake pedal and hold it at the bottom while you retighten the bleed screw. This side is now done. Do exactly the same on the other side.

Now to the rear brakes. Very similar proceedure. The bleed screws on these are 7mm on older cylinders and 8mm on newer ones and is located under protective caps to the top of the drums, just above the brake pipes.

In my case, i sheared one of the bleed screws trying to loosen it and had to replace the cylinder. Cylinders may also need to be replaced if they are leaking or sticking.

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To do this, the back end had to be jacked up, handbrake released, the drum removed (2x 11mm bolts) and the red spring between the shoes unclipped. The brake line attachment was sprayed with WD40 and removed (12mm) and the two bolts (10mm) holding the brake cylinder in place were removed.

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Then the new cylinder was bolted in place.

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The bung was removed before reattaching the brake pipe.

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The drum was reassembled and the circuit refilled and bled as previously described.

Finally, go around all four wheels again bleeding them to ensure no more air has entered the system. Ensure the reservoir is at its MAX mark before replacing the cap. Replace the roadwheels and drop the car to the floor and ensure the roadwheel bolts are tight.

The new pads will take some time to bed-in, so on your test run, be sure to give yourself plenty of time and space to brake. You may also notice the fluid level drop slightly during the bedding-in process, so keep an eye on it.

If after bedding in, the brakes still feel a little unresponsive or soft, you may still have air in the system so it may need to be bled again.

Its very unlikely the clutch will be at all affected by this, but if the clutch feels soft and isn't disengaging properly, you may have gotten air in the clutch hydraulic system, as it shares the same reservoir as the brake fluid. To bleed this its a similar process to the brakes, but instead of a bleed screw the clutch slave cylinder has to be bled by releasing the clip near the pipe and pulling the pipe out slightly.

sheddist · 27-10-2008

Great guide this.
Maybe you need to change your rear brake shoes so here are a few lessons learned the hard way to share:

1. Once the car is secured by the front wheels release the handbrake, remove the rear ashtray, the moulding below it and slacken off the handbrake adjustment.

2. When removing the handbrake cable from the operating lever attached to the brake shoe, just lift the flap (if fitted) and slip the cable out. No need to remove the roll pin holding it together.

3. Make sure the adjsuter ratchets are backed off before trying to fit the shoes.

4. Connect the cable and assemble the shoes with the handbrake link between them. Do not locate them at the bottom. They need to be as close together as possible.

5. Assemble the Blue(LH) and Green (RH) spring first. then the long spring at the top and finally the spring at the bottom. Then , using pliers, locate the bottom of the shoes in place and fit the reataining clips.

6. With the drums and wheels on, operate the footbrake HARD a few times. A few clicks will be heared as the adjsuters take up the slack.

7. Adjust the handbrake cable, making sure the shoes are not dragging when the handbrake is off.

8. Have a test drive in wonder at the now sharper brakes and properly working handbrake.

punto mk1 mikey · 11-01-2009

just a little note to people out there who want to do this job themselves,
be aware that if you dont do the job correctly then you could be putting yourself and other people in danger. if your brakes fail doing 70-80mph down the motorway it could be good-night for you and any unlucky person driving near you. if in ANY dought about doing the job get it done professionaly. im a mechanic apprentice and in my short time working ive seen some dodgy DIY jobs.

The guide is a good guide, dont get me wrong but if your unexperienced, things could go bad, could end up costing you a lot more than the price a garage would charge.

manley91 · 16-01-2009

I just tried this, cos its my brakes and theyre pretty important, just wanted to ask, when you use the g-clamp arent you sorta bending the disk? just didnt wanna do this if it could damage what the disk is attatched to ya know.... also where is the R clip?

Xen · 17-01-2009

no, the punto uses a floating caliper, so the caliper moves back and forth to the position of the disc. so by using the clamp it doesn't try force the brake disc to move, the caliper just slides to the right position instead. the only reason i use a g-clamp is to push the brake piston back in to fit the thicker pads in.

The R-clip... it clips through the pin on the bottom of the caliper, so the pin doesn't come out accidently. If you look at the pic just above putting the new pads in, where i've greases the contacting surfaces, you can see a hole at the front and a hole at the back of the caliper... the pin threads through these, and the R-clip is in the pin.

A N Utter · 23-02-2009

Hello Xen or anyone else for that matter

I have replaced brake pads on quite a number of different cars, and never had a problem getting the calliper piston/s to retract.

Yesterday I had to change the pads on my daughters mk1/mk2 Punto, she had had brake pads and disks replaced only a few months ago and hadn’t really done that many miles.
The near-side pads were gone completely, yet the off-side pads were hardly worn.
When retracting the pistons, the off-side piston went in with hardly any clamp pressure needed, but the near-side calliper would hardly budge, I put a smaller G-clamp on the bigger one to get more leverage, and it did eventually retract, but it was hard going the whole way in, what bugs me is that the piston could be turned with only using my fingers, and wobbled a bit in it’s housing in the calliper, and this was after trying to retract the piston with just the one G-clamp, so I know the piston didn’t feel jammed, yet armed with a heavy duty good quality G-clamp I had real trouble getting this piston in.

Yes I had the reservoir cap off, and like I said, the other callipers piston went in just how I expected, easily.

So my question is; is there some kind of in-line valve that releases the fluid pressure at the piston.
The weird thing about all this is that the car doesn’t pull to one side under braking, but I have a feeling that this calliper isn’t releasing all the pressure on the pads when braking is released, and it is causing the pads to rub excessively on the disk.

Any thoughts, ideas or help would be greatly received

A disappointed with Haines Manuel (not like they used to be in the old days, but they have much more to cover these days) Mick

gearfinger · 23-08-2009

Great guide mate. This is only for really for the Mk 1 though, the Mk2 has slighly different rear shoes and the front calliper has to be turned and retracted, you cant just squash it shut with a G clamp.

I recently did all my brakes, I had to buy a special tool for the front callipers, and i origianlly recieved the wrong rear shoes and had to replace them as they are ever so slighly different.

Xen · 23-08-2009

This is a mk2 :S

HLP92 · 28-09-2009

HI I HAVE BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS BLEEDING MY CLUTCH ON A 99/V PUNTO 1,2 16V SPORTING AND HAVE JUST READ YOUR COMMENTS AT THE BOTTOM OF THEB POST , DO YOU HAVE ANY OTHER ADVICE ON BLEEDING THE CLUTCH
MANY THANKS ..HARRY

mk1puntobob · 03-11-2009

the "special tool" u talk about to retract the piston can be done just as easy with a pair of pipe pliers and the thumb of ur free hand saves ya a wee bit cash on a tool u will only use once and lose it by the time ya need to do the brakes again

Krikkit · 03-11-2009

Having swapped a rear wheel for a front wheel due to poor wearing I've discovered that, somehow, the wheel locator pins have sheared off the disc (shown in the second pic, the narrow things on the disc hub to align the wheel properly). They look like bolts, can I borrow one from the other side to try?

I haven't quite managed to get the wheel properly aligned and get a tiny amount of wobble at >70mph (haven't driven more than about half a mile at that speed btw, I don't want bolt failure from judder).

Anyone got some advice?

Great guide btw, very well written and useful pictures!

cv7chels · 07-11-2009

Originally Posted by Xen

This is a mk2 :S

hey xen, great pictorial guide fella well done can i just clear up one point,my daughters punto is a "Y" reg i think it`s a 2000 car do i have to screw the piston into the caliper or simply "G" clamp it back cheers in advance and thanks again

Xen · 07-11-2009

Originally Posted by cv7chels

hey xen, great pictorial guide fella well done can i just clear up one point,my daughters punto is a "Y" reg i think it`s a 2000 car do i have to screw the piston into the caliper or simply "G" clamp it back cheers in advance and thanks again

Yes, 'Y' is actually an early 2001 car so its defiantly a MK2 like this.

No twisting of the piston is needed, you just simply open the bleed screw a little and force the piston back

Xen · 07-11-2009

Originally Posted by Krikkit

Having swapped a rear wheel for a front wheel due to poor wearing I've discovered that, somehow, the wheel locator pins have sheared off the disc (shown in the second pic, the narrow things on the disc hub to align the wheel properly). They look like bolts, can I borrow one from the other side to try?

I haven't quite managed to get the wheel properly aligned and get a tiny amount of wobble at >70mph (haven't driven more than about half a mile at that speed btw, I don't want bolt failure from judder).

Anyone got some advice?

Great guide btw, very well written and useful pictures!

The centre bore of the wheel should be a snugg fit with the hub anyway, the pins simply allow you to align the wheel up properly with the wheel bolt holes. So i'm suspecting perhaps the wheel had become out of balance somehow... I would have it checked at a tyre fitters, should only cost a couple of quid to have it checked and balanced.

Thats not to say i wouldnt bother replacing the pin tho... just grab one off a punto in a scrappers

maxjazz · 07-12-2009

Just thought i would add to this guide. you can buy several brake bleeding kits. I got one a few years ago, it attaches to your spare wheel and uses the pressure which needs to be about 20psi. It removes the need for assistants and is makes it much easier and quicker. It cost about a tenner and has saved me a small fortune as with my wife and son we have three cars. instructions are included and very easy to follow all you need to buy extra is brake fluid. Good guide though, but if you are not sure don't mess with your brakes. It should only cost an hours labour + fluid at a good garage. the one i use charges £30 to do this job.

17-01-2009	#4
Xen Get Your Own Title Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 1,639 Thanks: 144 Trader Rating: 0	Re: Brake Pad replacement, Fluid renewal and Rear Cylinder replacement. no, the punto uses a floating caliper, so the caliper moves back and forth to the position of the disc. so by using the clamp it doesn't try force the brake disc to move, the caliper just slides to the right position instead. the only reason i use a g-clamp is to push the brake piston back in to fit the thicker pads in. The R-clip... it clips through the pin on the bottom of the caliper, so the pin doesn't come out accidently. If you look at the pic just above putting the new pads in, where i've greases the contacting surfaces, you can see a hole at the front and a hole at the back of the caliper... the pin threads through these, and the R-clip is in the pin. __________________ FOR SALE: Stilo - 1.6 Engine, 1.6 Gearbox, 1.6 Exhaust manifold, Towbar, Load cover, Drivers window, Inner door panels, Front bumper, Tailgate, Rear door cards, Tailgate trim. Punto - 1.2 16v Engine, Rear windows, Tailgate, Door, Door card. http://www.fiatforum.com/classifieds...1&ppuser=26217 Last edited by Xen; 17-01-2009 at 00:28.
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23-02-2009	#5
A N Utter Get Your Own Title Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Surrey Posts: 5 Thanks: 0 Trader Rating: 0	Re: Brake Pad replacement, Fluid renewal and Rear Cylinder replacement. Hello Xen or anyone else for that matter I have replaced brake pads on quite a number of different cars, and never had a problem getting the calliper piston/s to retract. Yesterday I had to change the pads on my daughters mk1/mk2 Punto, she had had brake pads and disks replaced only a few months ago and hadn’t really done that many miles. The near-side pads were gone completely, yet the off-side pads were hardly worn. When retracting the pistons, the off-side piston went in with hardly any clamp pressure needed, but the near-side calliper would hardly budge, I put a smaller G-clamp on the bigger one to get more leverage, and it did eventually retract, but it was hard going the whole way in, what bugs me is that the piston could be turned with only using my fingers, and wobbled a bit in it’s housing in the calliper, and this was after trying to retract the piston with just the one G-clamp, so I know the piston didn’t feel jammed, yet armed with a heavy duty good quality G-clamp I had real trouble getting this piston in. Yes I had the reservoir cap off, and like I said, the other callipers piston went in just how I expected, easily. So my question is; is there some kind of in-line valve that releases the fluid pressure at the piston. The weird thing about all this is that the car doesn’t pull to one side under braking, but I have a feeling that this calliper isn’t releasing all the pressure on the pads when braking is released, and it is causing the pads to rub excessively on the disk. Any thoughts, ideas or help would be greatly received A disappointed with Haines Manuel (not like they used to be in the old days, but they have much more to cover these days) Mick __________________ Q / Why is there so many idiots on the road….A / It’s illegal to shoot them…. Originally Posted by T14086 what can you do with a toaster
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23-08-2009	#6
gearfinger Who is gearfinger? Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Edinburgh/Oxford Posts: 127 Thanks: 0 Trader Rating: 0	Re: Brake Pad replacement, Fluid renewal and Rear Cylinder replacement. Great guide mate. This is only for really for the Mk 1 though, the Mk2 has slighly different rear shoes and the front calliper has to be turned and retracted, you cant just squash it shut with a G clamp. I recently did all my brakes, I had to buy a special tool for the front callipers, and i origianlly recieved the wrong rear shoes and had to replace them as they are ever so slighly different. __________________ 03 Stilo 1.6 Dynamic 3Dr Silver, Connect Nav+, Electric Seats, No Mods c/o yet. :Wants: A a car that just works. Simples!
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23-08-2009	#7
Xen Get Your Own Title Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 1,639 Thanks: 144 Trader Rating: 0	Re: Brake Pad replacement, Fluid renewal and Rear Cylinder replacement. This is a mk2 :S __________________ FOR SALE: Stilo - 1.6 Engine, 1.6 Gearbox, 1.6 Exhaust manifold, Towbar, Load cover, Drivers window, Inner door panels, Front bumper, Tailgate, Rear door cards, Tailgate trim. Punto - 1.2 16v Engine, Rear windows, Tailgate, Door, Door card. http://www.fiatforum.com/classifieds...1&ppuser=26217
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07-11-2009	#12
Xen Get Your Own Title Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 1,639 Thanks: 144 Trader Rating: 0	Re: Brake Pad replacement, Fluid renewal and Rear Cylinder replacement. Originally Posted by cv7chels hey xen, great pictorial guide fella well done can i just clear up one point,my daughters punto is a "Y" reg i think it`s a 2000 car do i have to screw the piston into the caliper or simply "G" clamp it back cheers in advance and thanks again Yes, 'Y' is actually an early 2001 car so its defiantly a MK2 like this. No twisting of the piston is needed, you just simply open the bleed screw a little and force the piston back cv7chels thanked for this post __________________ FOR SALE: Stilo - 1.6 Engine, 1.6 Gearbox, 1.6 Exhaust manifold, Towbar, Load cover, Drivers window, Inner door panels, Front bumper, Tailgate, Rear door cards, Tailgate trim. Punto - 1.2 16v Engine, Rear windows, Tailgate, Door, Door card. http://www.fiatforum.com/classifieds...1&ppuser=26217
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