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Technical Twinair coolant leak from turbo the pipe

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Technical Twinair coolant leak from turbo the pipe

liorwohl

liorwohl

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My 2012 twinair 85 is leaking very slowly from the coolent tank where the pipe for the turbo connects.

I tried to put additional clamp near the old one, the leak seemed to stop for a week but its returned slightly.

Has anyone had this problem? Is it the pipe? The plastic bottle? Only the clamp? Can I still go to a track day? ;) Thanks
 

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Im afraid to take it off to see as i might break it while doing it.. Thought maybe its a common problem so i will be able to buy the part before.

(The leak currently is very weak, its not even changing the water level in the tank and im checking it every day.)
 
I had this very problem when mine was about 4 years old. I examined the spigot on the tank and couldn't see anything wrong, such as a crack. The inside is reinforced with a metal tube, by the way.

I then replaced the pipe. This part includes the metal fitting at the turbo end, so it cost about £50. This made no difference. I considered replacing the tank, but then tried a smear of plumbers silicon and a second jubilee clip. No more leaks up to when I sold the car at 6 years old.

The leak on mine was very minor - it would take a few weeks and several hundred miles for the coolant level to drop appreciably. I guess the way to ensure a proper fix is to fit a new tank and pipe. Likely to cost at least £100 in parts plus coolant.

At least the tank is positioned so you can easily monitor the leak and the level. When I reported this issue on this forum a couple of years ago nobody else responded so I guess it is quite unusual.
 
Oh, and taking the pipe off wasn't a problem. Coolant only flows through it when the engine is running, and if you anchor the open end above the tank you won't lose coolant. Best to only fiddle when it's cool, though, and slowly loosen the tank's pressure cap first.
 
I found that when I slackened the hose clip the hose pulled off quite easily. As I said, the spigot pipe on the tank has a metal tube inside it to prevent crushing. If removing the hose causes the pipe on the tank to break, chances are it was damaged and needed replacing anyway.

Try removing the hose from the tank. Dry everything, then put a smear of plumbers or aquarium sealant around the tank spigot. Put two new hose clips on the hose, with their screws on opposite sides, then push the hose back on and tighten the clips. Give the sealant a few hours to set before running the engine.

No guarantees, but it worked for me. If it looks like it's fixed, clean away all traces of pink residue, then keep a close eye to see if any more appears.

If this doesn't work, as I said above suggest a new tank and hose. I've no idea what the real problem is.
 
Thanks i will try that
I just drove right now and the leak is defently getting worse
 

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Same here on 3/2011 TA Turbo.

Removed the hose coming from turbo to find the leak.

The distal part of the plastic pipe remained in the hose.
The proximal part showed a crack (photo).

IMG_3362.JPG

Replaced it by a new tank of latest design (plastic pipe instead of metal pipe, within the now thicker turbo hose pipe) and no metal pipe within the other tank pipes.
I suspect that the inner plastic pipe at the turbo hose pipe is a kind of temperature isolation for the tank pipe, since the additional plastic pipe inside the tank pipe isolates better than metal.

The complete tank Costs 60€ and part number is
IMG_3363.JPG


LarsLarsen
 
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in mine it wasnt broken. it had the metal pipe inside the plastic.
just removed the pipe, cleaned the area, replaced the clamp with two new ones in opposite direction. leak seems to stop. (i didnt put a sealer)
 

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Since FIAT changed the design of the turbo hose pipe, I suspect that a general problem exists, what has been corrected with new design tank.

I suggest to replace the tank, because if there is already a small leak and you solve it with clamps or sealing, you take the risk of sudden coolant loss, if the pipe pulls off suddenly while driving.

This will be for sure more expensive than replacing the tank, in my opinion.
 
so if i get the new tank, I also have to replace the hose?

where i live everything is super expansive, will cost 300 euro easily.. need to bring the parts with me from Italy :rolleyes:
 
liorwohl said:
so if i get the new tank, I also have to replace the hose?



.....
Click to expand...



No, even if the pipe of the new tank is thicker, the hose needs not to be replaced, but you can't use the original clamp.

I compared it with my new 2017 500 S, already has the new cooling liquid tank, but the same diameter hose, connects to the turbo.

Lars
 
TrevC said:
I had this very problem when mine was about 4 years old. I examined the spigot on the tank and couldn't see anything wrong, such as a crack. The inside is reinforced with a metal tube, by the way.

I then replaced the pipe. This part includes the metal fitting at the turbo end, so it cost about £50. This made no difference. I considered replacing the tank, but then tried a smear of plumbers silicon and a second jubilee clip. No more leaks up to when I sold the car at 6 years old.

The leak on mine was very minor - it would take a few weeks and several hundred miles for the coolant level to drop appreciably. I guess the way to ensure a proper fix is to fit a new tank and pipe. Likely to cost at least £100 in parts plus coolant.

At least the tank is positioned so you can easily monitor the leak and the level. When I reported this issue on this forum a couple of years ago nobody else responded so I guess it is quite unusual.
Click to expand...
My daughters is doing exactly the same. I only noticed it because i was checking the oil and could hear a hissing. Very slight weep, bit of steam from the top hose. Replaced the clamp with a traditional jubilee clip and thought that had solved it. Checked last week and its lost 20mm of water on the bottle in about a 6 weeks(thus why i have found the thread!!)
 
Yeah, worth trying the silicone and two clip solution I mentioned above - worked for me. This was the only fault with the car in 6 years of ownership.
 
Found this on my daughters. Longitudinal crack (1st photo)

So i have tried smearing it with araldite rapid can just see the blob at the bottom of araldite, let it set for 12 hours. (2nd photo)

And then put some PTFE tape on, data sheets reckon the PTFE is good for 200 degrees, araldite is guarenteed for 85 degrees. (last photo).

I've used araldite on an astra gte radiator where the return hose clip was damaged so hopefully its makeup hasn't changed in 20 years!!

Discarded the jubilee clip for a standard one as well.

Lets see what happens
 

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