General Low mileage 60S

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General Low mileage 60S

Punto1cab

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HI
Looking at a very low mileage (less than 2000miles a year!) 1998 Punto 60S It is an 8v & I have no service history yet. Does this engine has a cam belt?
What else to look out for apart from the obvious ....do all the electrics work!
It is relatively expensive, but if it is genuine it will be a good car for a grandson to start his driving career.
 
Yes it has a cambelt, the FIRE 8v (55, 60, 75) engines are incredibly easy to work on, cambelts are every 72k miles or 5 years I think. Probably safer to get it done unless there is proof of it being changed.

Check electrics as you've mentioned, check for rust around the rear arches, the sub frame, floors and sills are the big areas, if these aren't crusty then anything else that may be wrong with the car is most likely a cheap fix (y)
 
Yes it has a cambelt, the FIRE 8v (55, 60, 75) engines are incredibly easy to work on, cambelts are every 72k miles or 5 years I think. Probably safer to get it done unless there is proof of it being changed.

Check electrics as you've mentioned, check for rust around the rear arches, the sub frame, floors and sills are the big areas, if these aren't crusty then anything else that may be wrong with the car is most likely a cheap fix (y)
Thanks, I'm having a look tomorrow. Mot's check out & no advisories ...little old lady car I think, past 7 years 250 miles a year! Just need to get the price down...the dealer is an optimist....aren't they all!
 
totally agree with Didge, if its solid shell then just buy it. its nice to get a mechanically sound car but the more important thing is that its not all rusty (rust can also be fixed obviously but its very time consuming and expensive if you cannot weld and paint yourself)

60s is a pretty basic model so not a huge amount to go wrong electric wise, no central locking, no electric windows etc. The very first car i owned was a 60s - basic motoring at its best (Y).

I would advise a full service if you purchase it without history.. including:
-belts, idlers and tensioner
-waterpump
-all fluids and filters (inc. fuel filter)
-check and replace as necessary plugs, leads. consider renewing the coil packs
-some would argue pointless but there are a few sensors that are easy to swap and cheap which are pretty crucial to healthy running, crank sensor, temp sensor, rad fan switch
-check all rubber parts for fatigue and cracking, suspension bushings, engine and gearbox mounts, flexi brake lines etc

Sounds like alot of stuff but its all simple stuff and inexpensive to buy.
 
Well we bought it. Runs well, filthy under bonnet with dust & mud! Paint absolutely flat/dead, but will polish up. Cleaned up well, no rust anywhere, a few niggles of course:
The horn doesn't work, nor does the interior light, Fuses ok...where next to look ??
The original radio had the wrong removable face panel, but I still had one from Mrs H's Cabrio, popped that in & we have a working radio!
Rear screen wash pipe was disconnected & washing the inside of the hatch. Easy, if fiddly fix.
Rear seat base (nice fabric, blue no 224) has split at a seam...anyone got one they don't need?!
I will get it on a ramp tomorrow & check out some of the points previously mentioned, but "ain't broke, don't fix" will be the plan as I run it around a bit.
 
ah nice, get some pics up ;)

for the horn i would just check the wires near the horn, often corroded inside under the actual plastic coating. But just get some wire and stick 12v directly on the horn to check it works first, then strip some insulation of the wires to see if its really bad, if so keep stripping til you find nice clean copper wire and chop and add a new bit of wire if required to get enough length back.. Failing that move back to the horn switch and check that is working with multimeter - my money is on corroded wires though.
 
ah nice, get some pics up ;)

for the horn i would just check the wires near the horn, often corroded inside under the actual plastic coating. But just get some wire and stick 12v directly on the horn to check it works first, then strip some insulation of the wires to see if its really bad, if so keep stripping til you find nice clean copper wire and chop and add a new bit of wire if required to get enough length back.. Failing that move back to the horn switch and check that is working with multimeter - my money is on corroded wires though.
Thanks...haven't found the horn yet!
 
ImageUploadedByFIAT Forum1464619411.342228.jpgis this the same blue cloth ? they need a good clean , no holes .free if you want them , you can have the whole car if you've got a trailor ??
 
Thanks I will have a good look tomorrow & check the match!
David
Well they are very close...I have a brochure from that era & I think your seats are Blue Cloth 234... whereabouts are you? I am Stratford on Avon.
I don't think I need the whole car....but!
 
It's been a while but if memory serves it's on the front. In front of the radiator so tricky access. But also why the wires get corroded
Well I have had a peer through the grille & a feel around, but I can see nothing! Can't see it on the Cabrio either, but that works! I'll have to get Mrs H to blow the horn with my head under the bonnet!
The 60S is really uncluttered ...no spots, no PAS, no ABS! Still can't find it
D
 
OK looked this up..

Haynes Manual said:
The horn is mounted on the lower edge of the front left hand wing, behind the front bumper moulding. To gain access, remove the screws and detach the hatch from the wheel arch liner.
Reach through the aperture in the wheel arch liner and unplug the wiring from the horn at the connector.

;) ;)
 
Well they are very close...I have a brochure from that era & I think your seats are Blue Cloth 234... whereabouts are you? I am Stratford on Avon.
I don't think I need the whole car....but!


Hi David , the seats are in a 1998 60 s not sure of the code , I am in Chesterfield , think we have spoke before at Stanford hall show .
 
Many thanks. I'll go have a furtle!
David
Hmmm!
the under wing splash panel has no aperture! (the cabtio has...both sides for access to the spots I imagine) I can see that splash panel from under the bonnet and using a mirror on a stick & a lamp & then feeling around...nothing! There is a little (1" x 1.5")clip in panel accessible from under the bonnet (under a mysterious tube & above the tie down loop), but it doesn't want to unclip & will probably disappear if I force it!
I am beginning to feel really dumb now, it can't be so difficult to find the horn surely!
 
Hi David , the seats are in a 1998 60 s not sure of the code , I am in Chesterfield , think we have spoke before at Stanford hall show .
This thread is getting busy! Let me have a think & I'll come back...I HAVE to find the B####Y horn first! 98 sounds good!
David
 
Hmmm!
the under wing splash panel has no aperture! (the cabtio has...both sides for access to the spots I imagine) I can see that splash panel from under the bonnet and using a mirror on a stick & a lamp & then feeling around...nothing! There is a little (1" x 1.5")clip in panel accessible from under the bonnet (under a mysterious tube & above the tie down loop), but it doesn't want to unclip & will probably disappear if I force it!
I am beginning to feel really dumb now, it can't be so difficult to find the horn surely!
Found it! Can't get at it, but I know where it is...below the n/s front indicator, but I think there is a panel in the way! I think the splash guard will have to come off, deep joy (not getting it off, but lining it up to get it back.)
Off we go.
David
 
just take the whole inner arch out is prob easiest option... patience though cause you can chip bits of paint off the actual wing if you are not careful ;)
Managed to get at the horn. It was loose on it's mounting & had badly corroded terminals. Took it off, cleaned them up & the horn tested perfectly connected to the battery. It does not work on the wires though! I will need a glamourous assistant to help for the next stage. I don't think there is power to the horn...is there a relay somewhere, although they rarely fail.
Onward ever onward
D
 
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