09 plate (no DPF) now arrived at its 70,000 mile service, but whats to do? every year I have replaced oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter. Discs and pads pads as required, rear shoes.
When do we start to think about the timing belt, tensioners etc? Suspension bushes? check brake lines? check parts for corrosion?

The diesel has no cam belt. It uses a timing chain which does wear out and should be replaced with new tensioners and guides.

If it's all nice and quiet, leave it alone. But when it begins to rattle get it fully changed as a slapping timing chain will cause consequential damage.

keefO said:

check parts for corrosion?

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That. The core bodyshell should be sound but anything bolted to it will likely be getting well rusty by now. Sumps and rear beams seem particularly prone to suffer.

Mine's the same year as yours - now heading for 100k miles. Engine still sweet, but I listen out regularly for any change in engine note. The timing chain is a potential weakness, but some have topped twice my mileage without issues.

I always change oil and filter together, and take no notice of Fiat's long service intervals - preferring to buy long-life insurance by changing every 6 to 8 thousand miles, depending on use.

Rust is the Panda Achilles heel. Not body rust - that rarely happens - but subframe and axle rust. Clean and protect (Waxoyle, old engine oil, etc) the underparts, including brake lines, and the car will give years of reliable service.

Very little else ever goes wrong. Great little puddle jumpers!

Sweetsixteen said:

Mine's the same year as yours - now heading for 100k miles. Engine still sweet, but I listen out regularly for any change in engine note. The timing chain is a potential weakness, but some have topped twice my mileage without issues.

I always change oil and filter together, and take no notice of Fiat's long service intervals - preferring to buy long-life insurance by changing every 6 to 8 thousand miles, depending on use.

Rust is the Panda Achilles heel. Not body rust - that rarely happens - but subframe and axle rust. Clean and protect (Waxoyle, old engine oil, etc) the underparts, including brake lines, and the car will give years of reliable service.

Very little else ever goes wrong. Great little puddle jumpers!

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subframe heh? back to the old days of the mini! ...axle? wow thanks i will keep an eye on that.

70k miles is hardly even run in. Only change the chain if it's rattly. I was talked into changing mine and later regretted it. If it gets changed, do the guides as well and use a good brand. The guides failed on mine but I don't know if that was down to them not having been changed or if it was a cheap alternative used.

I'm now at 126K miles. I'll be needing some suspension work done prior to MoT in mid-May. Otherwise it's doing well and looking well for its age. I am considering a respray as the paint is looking tired and there's no product that will help with that.

The back axle rots at the spring pans. They seem to fail about 20 to 30mm inboard of the weld to the actual swing arm tube. Mine had a line of deeper rust in that area so maybe stress peaks in that area.

If you have a 2WD (not 100HP) you can fit the 500 axle. It handles better than standard 169 and by the time you add paint and/or welding etc a nearly new 500 axle is no more costly.

The front end is different so look after the 169 parts. Used replacements will be like hens teeth or megabux from Fiat.

Yes, having worked on the back end of my mum's 6-year old 20,000 mile 500 I'd suggest that you get the rear of the car up on axle stands and remove the shocks and springs to let the subframe swing right down, and dismantle the brakes as well for good measure.

Clean, derust and paint the lot, it's a real water / salt trap and you'll ensure the future of your car. Maybe change the brake flexi hoses and certainly renew brake / clutch fluid.

bluejohn125 said:

Yes, having worked on the back end of my mum's 6-year old 20,000 mile 500 I'd suggest that you get the rear of the car up on axle stands and remove the shocks and springs to let the subframe swing right down, and dismantle the brakes as well for good measure.

Clean, derust and paint the lot, it's a real water / salt trap and you'll ensure the future of your car. Maybe change the brake flexi hoses and certainly renew brake / clutch fluid.

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I did this and found that fully removing the axle is not much more work.

You have to disconnect the hand brake cables and normal brake hydraulic pipes, but that's not hard with the correct spanner for the captive brake pipe nuts.

Put some thin polythene under the brake master cylinder cap before starting the job. This prevents air getting in and virtually stops fluid loss.

The axle is retained by three large bolts on each side. Remove these and the whole thing comes down.

I kept mine (2005) from 89k to 170k .Theres no need to touch the clutch or rear brakes even up to that mileage although they may give signs they're acting up theyre Fine !

Clutch slips every now and then but will not fail completely and can go months with no slips ( they tend to occur on hills in high gear )

I spent ages working on rear shoes /drums and even cylinders etc only to find problem was handbrake cable ! Shoes may be good for 200k , they were fine at 150k ....

I got 68mpg religiously

Your turbo actuator is almost certainly semi stuck ( I probably spent over a year without turbo boost ) If it feels slow it's faulty and an easy DIY fix .
( turbos also replaced when not needed due to this )


But wishbones ( and shocks) wear out quickly due to 'heavy' engine over front axle


Changed it for a 2010 sub 5k Miles 1.1 Eco .While I relish the lower maintenance I miss the mpg and far superior acceleration .