My little diesel 4x4 panda dropped its belt and lost its trousers yesterday! After some fishing I got up what remained:


I found a good older thread to get me started but questions remain! Can I replace it by just raising the right side and putting the car on a good stand or will I want to drag the car to a full lift? This will effect how far I have to tow it. I found the correct belt in eper (with AC) and have a RTA workshop manual (in french.

Some wise words from someone that has done this before on the Panda multijet would be helpful!

Unfortunately prices in Sweden are outrageous, Mekonomen will charge me up towards 40 GBP (> 400 SEK) for a random generic belt but noone else can give me one in a day...

Below some side story that does not effect the question, I was in so much luck with the timing! I had driven from Gothenburg to Stockholm in the easter traffic (for 7 hours) and it broke in sothern Stockholm, letting me roll into a parking lot on a gas station. I've had similar friends with similar stories: Are engine parts generally well mannered and break when you can gilde safely into a good spot from where to fix it?

If you had a cam belt I would say get that changed along with the auxiliary belt.

Although it means a wait for delivery your best option is to call Shop4parts.

https://www.shop4parts.co.uk

Shop4Parts,
Rutland Street,
Bradford,
BD4 7EA

+44 (0)1274 734082

DaveMcT This is the multijet diesel so no cam belt involved. I think I'll give the swap a shot myself!

One shop recommended a new tensioner but I wont get one now so if it feels loose or look worn I'll have to go in a second time soon.

http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bilreservdelar/Motordelar/Drivremmar/ maybe`?

Easy enough to do with just one wheel off and up on stands.
Hardest part in doing our MJ was actually getting the rusty screws out of the wheel arch liner sections. Not tight, just pozi heads almost rusted off!

p.s the adjuster on ours is 15mm, not 13? - as suggested long ring spanner needed to give plenty of leverage, no space for a socket. Lever in a clockwise (tightening) direction to remove/refit the belt. There's no timing needed for this belt change

Ken

Don't drive without the belt, the multijet has an external water pump and without this belt there is no engine cooling.

That said check that the water pump has not seized and caused the belt to shred also check the aircon pump and all other pulleys and wheels to make sure everything is turning freely otherwise you destroy your new belt in a few minutes of running

Trimdoner said:

Easy enough to do with just one wheel off and up on stands.
Hardest part in doing our MJ was actually getting the rusty screws out of the wheel arch liner sections. Not tight, just pozi heads almost rusted off!

p.s the adjuster on ours is 15mm, not 13? - as suggested long ring spanner needed to give plenty of leverage, no space for a socket. Lever in a clockwise (tightening) direction to remove/refit the belt. There's no timing needed for this belt change

Ken

Click to expand...

Thanks gor the good tips! I did give it a run yesterday but cold and dark hindered me from finishing.

The screws in the liner were indeed bad. Two were completely gone. I had to dig around the rubber/plastic with a knife and if I get them out now add a new stainless screw with a larger head.

The adjuster was indeed 15 mm, not 13 as suggested in the older thread. WD-40 and taping a standard wrench plus later brute force made it come off, but quite some force was required. Anr this is as far as I got. I did not understand I was supposed to tigthen it? I let it loose and that gave me some freedom of movement but not enough to fit the belt. You're saying I should tighten it? Not seeing how that'd make it move to give me room to dit the belt but I truat you, I'll try again the next opportunity I have and see what happens!

AndyRKett said:

Don't drive without the belt, the multijet has an external water pump and without this belt there is no engine cooling.

That said check that the water pump has not seized and caused the belt to shred also check the aircon pump and all other pulleys and wheels to make sure everything is turning freely otherwise you destroy your new belt in a few minutes of running

Click to expand...

*nodnod* I don't know when the belt was changed last so this was most likely normal wear and tear. All the wheels were turning very smoothly and without resistance except the big one that shouldn't. You know which one.

I did notice the water pump stopping when old belt broke. Over maybe 45 seconds I heard the sound of the belt snapping (without realizing this is what happened at first); the battery light coming on (no generator) and the engine temp going up (no water pump).


I wouldnt've been that scared to run it for a minute or two without belt, the oil cools too. But I preferred not to and now I could avoid it completely. Got towed to a better place to do the belt change in my own time!

TobiasBB said:

http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bilreservdelar/Motordelar/Drivremmar/ maybe`?

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip! I did pass by and looked and the closest fit they have is 6PK1305, the belt should be 6PK1310. I ended up not returning the one Mekonomen sold me, comparing them side by side the Dayco belt from Mekonomen was thinner and more agile and looked more well built. The Biltema belt looked more like a lump of rubber. Would probably get the job done though so good to know for future reference!

The adjuster is spring loaded - you just need to lever it out of the way using the 15mm nut. No need to loosen the nut!

Trimdoner said:

The adjuster is spring loaded - you just need to lever it out of the way using the 15mm nut. No need to loosen the nut!

Click to expand...

Huh - I knew it was spring loaded but couldn't figure out how it was supposed to work. I'll hopefully have time to try it out tonight!

For those with a cam belt. Absolutely this is not going to affect the cam belt

However, if you don't know when either belt was changed, take a close look at the aux belt where it wraps backwards over idler pulley(s). If the ribs are cracking it's on the way out and there's a very good chance the cam belt will be just as bad.

New belt in place and spinning perfectly!



Once I knew what to do it was no problems. I didn't have a long 15mm wrench, just a standard one. Tough to pull far enough but doable!

I replaced the bad screws for the guards with new ones, not perfect fits but they'll do until I find perfect ones. The old ones go straight to the bin either way.

The damages I did to the guard when removing it were fixed with hot glue. Should do the trick.

Thanks for the help everyone!

Spray all those beginning to rust brackets with some good quality corrosion protection. The best ones are bit smelly but do a great job.

Don't bother with WD-40 I mean something like CorrosionX.