The latest Yamaha 900 triples have a cross plane crank (two up, one down) presumably they also have a balance shaft as they are very smooth.

Any modern car showing 6 volts will play up. You might was well connect it to an EverReady torch battery.

Fit a decent battery, Hot wiring across the old one wont help as its almost certainly short circuit internally.

Drain the manky old petrol. Stale petrol often wont start.

Ring back when you tried that lot.

I don't know what I am doing wrong but I keep updating my posts but they seem to disappear. I am one very p----d off bunny right now. For many years now I have been tweeking cars/motorcycles etc and this Italian crap Panda has beaten at present. I am frustrated by the lack of info i.e. no wiring diagram, the owner manual fuses are not like that fitted in the car, the Haynes manual wiring is different to the car and the local dealer is as much use as a tit on a fish. After many hours wrestling with the problem I am no further that I was last week. I have hot wired the ignition switch and the engine started first poke sweet as a nut. No funny codes coming up on the dash so I assume everything is running OK. My ODNmeter will communicate OK but when I scroll down for Fiat it says 'See the manual'. What bloody manual? The one I can't read on my computer and don't tell me anything that is useful. If I can't read any codes and there are none coming up on the dash or the ODBmeter can any genius tell me? I am contemplating stripping down the switch under the passenger seat-the one that the owner's manual don't tell you about-but that will entail taking out the passenger seat just to look at the wires colour and test the switch. Who designed this crap?

What part of the country are you

You can try this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fiat-Panda-...ash=item3adb4bf18c:g:dgIAAOSwTuJYsfdc&vxp=mtr

Txuchin said:

You can try this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fiat-Panda-eLearn-english-german-french-spanish-italian-repair-manual-CD-/252787290508?hash=item3adb4bf18c:g:dgIAAOSwTuJYsfdc&vxp=mtr

Click to expand...

or download the same thing from the download section of this forum for free.

You appear to have a simple electrical connection issue. So it has to be tackled logically.
You have already shown that a jump wire to the ignition switch 'cures' the problem, so you know where the issue is.

The main supply from the battery goes to the engine compartment fusebox. Haynes says Fuse 23.
From that fuse, it then goes via a red wire to the ignition switch.

From the battery trace the wire to the fuse box. Check the voltage as it arrives.
If OK, check the voltage at the other end of the fuse. Cold just be a poor fuse connection.
If OK, move to the ignition switch and check the voltage. Now it is lower, if not already found the problem.
Go back to the fusebox. Check the output connection from that fuse. Quite likely just a poor connection there. Now follow the wiring loom through to inside the car, checking for any external damage, signs of chafing, etc., that may cause internal damage. Unlikely to be any connector in the run until close to the ignition switch.
Under the dash, with column cowls removed probably, find the connector to the ignition switch. Check voltage as it arrives, and leaves.

Somewhere along that route will be a poor connection.