Hi guys,

I'm looking to bleed the clutch slave cylinder in the next few days as the clutch fluid is original - 8 years ago ! Anyway, I understand the procedure, but does anyone know the size of the nut, which needs slacking in order to perform the bleed.

Many thanks,
Matt

Hello and welcome.

Mine needed a 4mm allen key.

Photos in this post (photo shows a 500, but my 2010 Panda is exactly the same).
https://www.fiatforum.com/500/287720-sediment-clutch-master-cylinder.html?p=2909691

Thanks J.R Kitching,

I wasn't sure if it was a nut or an allen key. I'll be sure to do the job as soon as possible. The Service book is full of FIAT dealership service stamps and mentions the usual brake fluid change but no mention of the clutch fluid.

And as I've heard, FIAT don't check the bucket/shims for the valves which means they've probably never bothered with the clutch fluid either.

Matt.

Brake bleed nipples are either 8mm AF or 10mm AF. Some are 11mm but they are rare these days. It's likely the clutch follows the same pattern.

AF = Across Flats (or face) can be metric or imperial.

Thanks DaveMcT,

I'm hoping it's a 4mm allen key for the 2009 Panda 1.2. If so I'll be able to perform the clutch bleeding tonight as I already have a 4mm allen key.

Matt.

DaveMcT said:

Brake bleed nipples are either 8mm AF or 10mm AF.

Click to expand...

I was shockked that the Punto Twinair had 9mm A/F on front callipers when I did the disks and pads the other week. 9mm

When I bled my Panda clutch some years ago I didn't reilise there was some odd black rubber diapram thing in the resivoir took a while to work out why nothing was moving with 2 par pressure in via a foot pump didn't get anything shifting

Removed and binned the black thing and soon got it all moving. football valve fits nicley through the tiny hole in the resivoir cap, but shouldn't need that unless you've got the clutch peddle stuck on the floor :bang:

once you got the the master clutch cylinder going it don't tend to draw fluid back through the bleed hole if it's open in my experiance so quite an easy 1 man job if the other end of the pipe is submerged in fluid.

Hi guys,

I've done the clutch fluid change however I've noticed a few things, please tell me if I've done it right or wrong:

The clutch is really light now, with a spongy affect but the pedal rises instantly but the pedal is really light and the bite is still firm. The pedal follows my foot right to the top with no problems.

The pedal used to creak but it doesn't do that any more.

The fluid is really clear now - upon opening the cap to start with the fluid was orange in colour.

So yeah, should the pedal be lighter now the fluid has been changed?

Matt.

Matthew Kirk said:

Hi guys,

I've done the clutch fluid change however I've noticed a few things, please tell me if I've done it right or wrong:

The clutch is really light now, with a spongy affect but the pedal rises instantly but the pedal is really light and the bite is still firm. The pedal follows my foot right to the top with no problems.

The pedal used to creak but it doesn't do that any more.

The fluid is really clear now - upon opening the cap to start with the fluid was orange in colour.

So yeah, should the pedal be lighter now the fluid has been changed?

Matt.

Click to expand...

Well done Matthew - did yours have the same allen key fitting for the bleed?

It's possibly lighter as a result of exercising the pedal when performing the bleed procedure - all that full motion travel may have freed up the mechanism.

Certainly this is a job which should be done at the same time the brake fluid is changed, yet so often seems to be neglected. Most 5+ yr old cars have clutch fluid resembling treacle. Mine needed doing when the cars were less than a year old - both Panda and 500.

Last one I did was noticeably smoother after fluid change. I think it might have felt lighter too, but that could have been imagination rather than fact.

Hi guys,

J.R.Kitching - The slave cylinder bleed screw was in fact 4mm

The creaking clutch has returned. As I push down the creak is heard internally and externally and same applies when lifting the pedal. The clutch works fine, but it's just really creaky - noticeably worse when the engine is hot or even on a warm/hot day.

Where is it best to lubricate/grease it up?

Edit: Can I just pull back the dust cover on the slave cylinder and just inject lithium grease in there? The creaking is horrific and I think it'll help. Obviously I'll great the rod between the slave and fork. I think the rod between the clutch pedal and master cylinder could do with lubricating too.

Matt.

Hello,

Can anyone please tell me what method you used to successfully bleed the clutch?

I tried doing mine today, the fluid would only come out by leaking up round the bleed grub screw, non came out the bleed nipple.

I bought and fitted a new LUK slave cylinder and the fluid leaks up round the screw as well, although some came out the nipple this time.

The new one creaks loudly as well, probably worse than the old one :bang:

At least the clutch action feels fine, not spongy or biting too high.

BambooShoot said:

Can anyone please tell me what method you used to successfully bleed the clutch?

Click to expand...

I vacuum bleed mine using one of these.

jrkitching said:

I vacuum bleed mine using one of these.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll buy one of those as it'll come in handy for doing brakes as well.

Did you ever notice fluid coming up around the bleed screw when it's opened?

BambooShoot said:

Did you ever notice fluid coming up around the bleed screw when it's opened?

Click to expand...

I did mine blind, without removing the battery, so can't comment on how much (if any) of the fluid seeped around the bleed screw. I did put the nipple under vacuum before opening the screw, which will naturally draw any fluid away from the screw.

There's very little fluid volume in the reservoir, so you'll need to keep a close eye on the level to avoid getting air into the system and having to start again.

A creaking clutch can be a sign its getting to end of life. The pressure plate fingers get worn and make the noise. If its releasing properly then accept the noise. If gear selection gets difficult especially down shifts and getting into first gear from cold then you may then need a new clutch.

But there are many areas that can creak (e.g. pedal pivots) so check them out and lubricate before worrying about major repairs.

Hi,

It was all cured when I put lithium grease on the clutch pedal piston leading to master cylinder. It's smooth and there is no noise.

It's funny that you should mention about difficulty getting into gears because I'm starting to struggle getting it into first with second and third getting notchy too. I wonder if the box is notorious for failing synchro's on those gears, particularly first?

The box is great but a worn clutch will cause those problems. If its not light to press and silky smooth all the way down you may well be at end of life on the clutch. £200 to supply and fit a clutch will be more than enough outside London.

The clutch is silky smooth. No problems at all now.

Matt.