Hi,

I had intermittent problems with my Panda (54 plate). It ran fine and then would not rev past 2.5k. I researched a number of threads and jumped straight to the fuel pump, that i replaced. Now it won't start. Prior to this, The code reader would not provide any error codes at all, when I turn the engine on, the new fuel pump primes and does have pressure ( I removed the hose like a retard) safe to say no one will be smoking in the car for a while. I have checked all of the fuses under the bonnet. They are fine.

I have removed the HT leads from the ignition coils. they seem fine. I can't remove the h T leads from where they are attached to the spark plugs - they are seriously stiff. I really need tome tips on prising them off as I am unable to do this. (I rock climb and have a pretty firm grip) as I really wanted to check if there was any form of corrosion on them.

Could the Panda have been immobilised when I disconnected the battery to replace the fuel pump? If so, what tricks are there to make it run again? How do I check if the crank has slipped a couple of teeth? And how do you remove the HT lead form the spark plug with shredding them?

Cheers.

Is this just a limp home mode in operation. It might just be only a re set issue.

Check the basics first and go from there.

Fuel?
You seem certain it's getting to the injectors yes?

Spark?
You'll need to pull a lead off, they will pop off but can be very stiff.
Two out of the four sit a bit further out, so you might get a better grip on one of these.

Maybe a silly question, but did the pump have liquid in it when you started it - most liquid pumps break if they are run dry (I dont know if this is the same with a panda-pump)

Note that, a faulty ECU connector may cause "no start" with "no errors recorded" too. I learned the hard way: the electric starter was doing its job, but failed to properly start the engine. Similar or identical behavior as a failed fuel pump. In my case, a proper wire-teasing or even an ECU connector disconnect/reconnect would make the engine start (the smaller ECU connector). Just an idea to check, some contact-cleaner can't hurt either.

Sounds like your leads have corroded onto th top of the plugs. Push down and twist might break the join. If not it should come off with a pair of pliers on the thicker part of the lead closest to the plug. Not without its dangers. You could unscrew the off the spark plug but it would still be stuck in the end of the lead.

Normally easier when the engine is hot. Not much use to you though.

As for not staring. Did you fill the pump with fuel before fitting. Should self prime. However not always. If you have sat there switching the ignition on and off quite a few times and it still will not start then you could try spaying easystart to kick it into life. Never known this problem with petrol car before but it seem quite common for them not to start after running out of petrol (according to google)

So it's a 54 with spark plugs, so is a 1.2 60hp. (Too early for 100hp?)

Plug leads are serious pain. I got these: Sealey VS867 Spark Plug Pliers, 300 mm: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
Work a treat.

I'm thinking with no errors, that probably rules out crank or cam sensors, but what about cambelt? Has it slipped? Or broken. If it slipped, can still run but with lower power. Get the covers off and try to align the marks.

Check air filter for blockages. Has it ingested a paper bag, or similar? Have mice chewed the paper element and the debris is now in the engine?

Head gasket gone? Check coolant level and condition. Check oil too.

koalar said:

As for not staring. Did you fill the pump with fuel before fitting. Should self prime. However not always. If you have sat there switching the ignition on and off quite a few times and it still will not start then you could try spaying easystart to kick it into life. Never known this problem with petrol car before but it seem quite common for them not to start after running out of petrol (according to google)

Click to expand...

Failing that put the original pump back. At lest it should be back to a starting car. Although with the original problem.

"As for not staring. Did you fill the pump with fuel before fitting. Should self prime. However not always. If you have sat there switching the ignition on and off quite a few times and it still will not start then you could try spaying easystart to kick it into life. Never known this problem with petrol car before but it seem quite common for them not to start after running out of petrol (according to google)"

The pump arrived dry. I placed it into the fuel tank, I trie dto crank over the engine at which point it spluttered and died. I had not replaced the back seat and prised the fuel hose off. It was certainly under pressure as it sprayed fuel over me.

Not certain, but I will check. Is there an easy way to do this rather than me trying to reinvent the wheel?

"Note that, a faulty ECU connector may cause "no start" with "no errors recorded" too. I learned the hard way: the electric starter was doing its job, but failed to properly start the engine. Similar or identical behavior as a failed fuel pump. In my case, a proper wire-teasing or even an ECU connector disconnect/reconnect would make the engine start (the smaller ECU connector). Just an idea to check, some contact-cleaner can't hurt either."

i will certainly give this a try. Thanks for the direction.

"Check the basics first and go from there.

Fuel?
You seem certain it's getting to the injectors yes?

Spark?
You'll need to pull a lead off, they will pop off but can be very stiff.
Two out of the four sit a bit further out, so you might get a better grip on one of these.Just an idea to check, some contact-cleaner can't hurt either."

Not certain, but I will check. Is there an easy way to check the injectors do this rather than me trying to reinvent the wheel?
Ill try to pop a lead off as well.

portland_bill said:

So it's a 54 with spark plugs, so is a 1.2 60hp. (Too early for 100hp?)

Plug leads are serious pain. I got these: Sealey VS867 Spark Plug Pliers, 300 mm: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
Work a treat.

I'm thinking with no errors, that probably rules out crank or cam sensors, but what about cambelt? Has it slipped? Or broken. If it slipped, can still run but with lower power. Get the covers off and try to align the marks.

Check air filter for blockages. Has it ingested a paper bag, or similar? Have mice chewed the paper element and the debris is now in the engine?

Head gasket gone? Check coolant level and condition. Check oil too.

Click to expand...

I have checked the oil and it is fine, I will certainly give all of the other ideas a go as well.

koalar said:

Sounds like your leads have corroded onto th top of the plugs. Push down and twist might break the join. If not it should come off with a pair of pliers on the thicker part of the lead closest to the plug. Not without its dangers. You could unscrew the off the spark plug but it would still be stuck in the end of the lead.

Normally easier when the engine is hot. Not much use to you though.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I am genuinely hoping that this may be the case.

Thanks for the interest. I am going to put together an itinerary of things try over the weekend, I am sure that this can be solved and hopefully help some others in future!!! I will keep you posted, but if you think of anything else, please do let me know before the weekend!:slayer::slayer::slayer:

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I have had a play this afternoon, and have made some semi progress. This is the state of play atm:

- changed fuel pump
- changed coil pack (s)
- checked and cleaned all the earths
- checked fuse box

The car will now run at idle fine, however as soon as I try to apply any gas the car hits 2.5k, and dies. This leads me to believe that the problem is not with either the HT leads or the spark plugs, as I would have expected the idle to be lumpy and this is not the case. I will upload a video of the issue at some point.

Hi guys,

Here is a link to You Tube showing the symptoms. The reader does not pick up any error codes to give an indication as to where the fault may be.

[ame]https://youtu.be/DuPJIYXSDXw[/ame]

:bang::bang::bang::bang::bang:

That looks and sounds like an electrical cutoff. Have you got MultiECUscan?
If not, a bluetooth OBD dongle and the app Torque on your phone (or something similar) will do.
Try and view the live sensor readings (throttle position sensor, crank sensor etc.) and see if any are showing abnormal values. From the video it looks and sounds like the ECU could be limiting revs for some reason. Are you certain there are no errors stored?

I'll put a shilling on cambelt jumped a tooth or two.
54 plate should be earlier spec engine, square oil cap, so no cam sensor. So ECU will not read the out of phase camshaft as all taken from crank sensor.

Get the covers off and check the cambelt timing marks.