Technical Injector replacement

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Technical Injector replacement

Dr pepper

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I have the 1.3d mutlijet.
My engine has been idling rough and smoking just after startup for a while now, once I start driving the smoke clears.
I havent looked at the injector parameters for a while, but I remember one being a lot different.
Supposing I have a bad injector is it a difficult job with multiecu scan to enter the codes for a new one?, preumably I'd need to upgrade to the registered version.
Would I need a special tool for pulling the injector, I've not done one on these before.
 
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Hi,
Black smoke or white?
If it's white it's more likely to be a faulty glow plug than an injector problem.

Forgot to answer the two questions. Entering injector codes is easy with MES but you do need the registered version.
You do need a puller, either slide hammer or screw type. Video of job here


Helps if you remove the clamp before using the slide hammer :)
Robert G8RPI.
 
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As g8rpi says, check glowplugs first. Even if you don't have a glowplug error showing one or more may be weak, and they are not only operated before start-up. Use good brand replacement if required. They are reasonably cheap. Might even be an idea to change them all out if you can get a good deal on a set of 4.
If glowplugs are all ok it could also be an injector seal or pipe problem, rather than an injector.
If it is an injector, entering the munge code in MES is usually the easy part. They can be a right b*****d to get out.
On the other hand the last couple I have changed have come out really easy... pot luck I guess.
Hope it's glowplug(s).
 
Thanks for those replies chaps.
I just replaced the glow plugs in the mrs's berlingo, and this time it went easy.
I havent checked the glowplugs in the fiat, I assumed it wasnt those as the engine idles as though its a petrol with a part fouled plug, kinda lumpy, and it does this even if its been running/driving an hour.
Another assumption which was incorrect was assuming no code means plugs are ok.
The smoke which is white and smells like part burnt fuel occurs only on startup before you rev the engine, but if you dont rev the engine it carries on, even if left 10 mins or more.
The first thing I'll do then is check the plugs, I can cadge a dc clip on ammeter for the afternoon so if I can get to the individual plug wires that should be a snip, or should I pull them clean them up and test them on a battery?
I've seen a slide hammer puller on ebay, I allready have a slide hammer but not an adaptor, and yes trying to smack them out with a slide hammer wouldnt be so great with the retainer still bolted on.
 
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Easy way to test the glowplugs is to pull off the connectors, then using a length of insulated wire, hold one end on each glowplug and stroke the other end across the positive battery terminal. A slight spark indicates a functioning glowplug, while zilch tells you the plug is duff.

Having said that, from your post it does not seem like a glowplug fault - more like an injector.

Presumably you've already checked coolant for leakage (thinking head gasket failure - although rare on these) ?
 
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I found the dead plug on the berlingo in a similar way only I had a spotlight inline for a bit of safety.
No havent checked for gasket failure I'll add that to the list, usual stuff, bit of ally over the exhaust, mayo on the dipstick & rock hard rad hoses.
 
Might be glowplug(s) and a leaky injector, but glowplugs are the easiest and cheapest option.
The "just after startup" smoking and lumpy idling is exactly what our Sporting was doing.
It did sound a bit lumpy-idle when it had been driven gently for 30mins or so when the cold weather started too, and that disappeared after new glow plugs too, so I've assumed that the glowplugs fixed that too. Could be wrong but...
 
Now thats interesting, 30 mins after startup I wouldnt expect lumpy idle being a duff 'plug.
Right glow plugs checked first then.
If nones blown I'll pull and clean them and go onto injectors if that dunt fix it, just hope no hairy backsided mechanic has ragged them up stupid tight, the book implies they are just nipped at 10nm.
My local supplier says they have 2 types, a short one and a long one (over twice the length), they refer to them as variant 1 and variant 2.
 
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A leak off (often called spill off) test will usually indicate if you have a duff injector without removing them for the engine and sending them all off for testing.

It's quite easy to diy a test.
Remove the injector return pipes from the top of each injector and bung up the last one (that returns all four back to the pump/fuel filter).

Replace each pipe with a slightly longer one and push each pipe into a separate small bottle/container of the same size/type.

Now you can run the engine, see what each injector returns and compare each to all the others.

There will be tolerances somewhere regarding how much is acceptable, but rule of thumb is they should be all around 10% of one another.

Try on idle first then measure the results, then try again with some load on the engine (2000 rpm).

I've tested a few common rail injectors like this is it's usually pretty obvious if one or more are FUBAR!

If you need them out and tested or refurbished, try Ladenall Ltd.
They saved me a lot of time and effort when they stripped some parts of a stock pump for me rather than wait for them from Japan!
 
As Goudrons
- but don't forget to use four containers, preferably glass and identical, putting one under each of the leak-off pipes!

Messy otherwise !
 
Ok, would that be the high pressure pump on the engine or the electric pump at the back..
I've heard what can only be described as a farting sound from the n/s rear, I assumed it was a worn shocker as it mainly does it on left handers, but I spose it could be the tank or electric pump, theres no smell of diesel or patches on the ground, could be vaporizing before it gets that far I spose.

On a lighter or heavier note I've recently got the mrs a vauxhall, with the 1.3 multijet, its been throwing an engine light, cleared now but hardly reassuring, maybe my confidence in these motors was premature.
 
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Ok the high pressure pump, mines the earlier Cp3.

The vauxhall has just left with the mrs, but I managed to do the pedal trick before she went, its P0704 - clutch signal fault, and it happens just as you set off in first then after a few miles or so clears, kinda makes sense, if the ecu detects a speed input from the vss and nothing from the clutch switch the code sets.
Will leave it a couple of days and see if any other dtc's set just in case summat else is causing it, new switches are 8 quid from ebay.
Is the switch used to control the egr or something.
 
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Not spent any time on the fiat, spent it all on the vaux.
I cleared the fault codes, went for a drive.
First thing noticed was the egr drive cycle doesnt complete.
Second thing it wouldnt do 70 on the motorway, 65 tops, and doesnt pull the skin of a rice pudding.
Third thing on quiet roads a loud hiss from the engine on acceleration and a max boost press of 6 - 7 psi, inspecting on the road side found a big hole in the inlet manifold, just above where the egr is on my fiat (couldnt see much in the dark), so I think a egr hose tail has broke off the fanimold.
The fault code I get now is p1901, which comes back as a dpf fault, but this car isnt sposed to have one, its £130 tax, havent looked for a dpf properly in the dark.
I did see somewhere on a forum that the egr can set this code, hoping thats it.
 
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Loud hiss and low power is a loss of boost due to a leak in the air intake system somewhere.

You'll more than likely get a lot of fuel and emission related DTC's because of this as it measures the air entering the turbo, fuels for it, but it's leaking before it enters the engine.

Due to the leak it might not be able to operate the EGR valve properly as well, though it might be completely clogged with soot and crankcase blowby (engine oil breather is plumbed into the air intake).
Some clean up and still work, but it's becoming common that the operating motors fail.

Fix the leak and clean out all the gunk from the EGR, manifold, pipes and intercooler.
Also check the wastegate isn't jammed, the same sort of carbonised gunk can clog up the wastegate so the arm won't move.
There's a few guides arounf the 'net.

After these, see what it's like.
 
Yes I know what your saying, the turbo is pulling air past the maf, then blowing it out to atmosphere, but the ecu is dosing juice for the total amount of air.
On a petrol this would cause a lean code as unmetered air would enter the engine, but on a td boost is escaping so an over rich is going to happen, if its been like this a while then carbon will be everywhere.
The only code I get is P1901 which is a dpf pressure sensor code, thats after the drive cycles complete, except for the egr drive cycle which will not complete.
After close inspection with a mirror it isnt a hose tail broken off it is actually a hole its about 3/8" x 1/8", not sure whether to get a manifold from a junker off ebay or whether to pull it off and araldite the hole up.
I hope the dpf isnt clogged up, still they are not as much as I thought.
 
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Ok spent some time on the old girl.
All the glowing plugs are ok, they light a lamp and read 0.75 ohm.
So I pulled the airbox and unplugged the maf, and started her up, pulled off each injector plug, 1,2 and 3 nearly stalls the engine, number 4 doesnt make a cats whisker difference.
So I put it all back and test drove it, lots of power and runs on all 4 while moving, its just idle 3 pots only fire.
As I understand it this motor has 5 injection cycles, sounds like the idle, spike or whatever its called isnt operating.
So probably a mucked up injector or possibly low compression, the latter I cant check my meter is for petrols.
I odnt want to mess about with waiting for mine to be refurbed, only to be told its had it or the price double, theres someone on ebay selling 2nd hand refurbed ones with test report & warranty for 45 quid,this sound like a good idea?
 
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It does sound like that injector might be leaking past too much fuel.
Could be that under load it's coping with the extra fuel being passed but not at idle with no boosted air to burn, hence the white smoke.

I've used a set of cheaply refurbed injectors in my old Jag X Type and they weren't really worth the money.
I ended up taking both sets to be checked at Ladenall's and they said the refurb's were only fit for the bin, they were rebuilt with cheap copied parts and the calibration was awful.

I'm not sure where you are based, but there are a few good diesel specialists dotted around, I've used these in the past.
First Diesel Injection Croydon
Ladenall's North London
Diesel Bob's near Preston
Swadlincote diesel South Derbyshire
Grosvenor Auto Diesel Ashton U Lyne (been a while, not sure if they are still there)
 
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