Technical 100hp coolant temp?

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Technical 100hp coolant temp?

dac69er

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noticed that the coolant temp reading has gone from being rock steady at the mid point pretty much all the time (once warmed up of course) however, recently i have noticed that it doesnt seem to maintain so well anymore.

car will warm up pretty quick as it always had. most of the time the temp will sit around 1-2 bars below the midpoint. if i give the car a good thrashing, the temp will rise up to the midpoint for a bit, then come back down.

it is not losing any coolant. coolant is nice and clear and the level in the expansion chamber is doing as expected.

i fitted a new genuine waterpump and cambelt last year.


i am assuming it is just the thermostat, just a pain as it was ok, so didnt change it when i changed the waterpump!

can anyone confirm this is not normal please? also, which type of thermostat is correct? most look very similar, but there are a few minor differences.
 
It should sit steady at a fraction over the half way mark and not move. If it does come down then it's too cool and you do need a new thermostat.


Shockingly, it'll drop your rev limit from 7,000 to 6,500 as well if it isn't fully up to temps!
 
The thermostat is a simple change. Just be sure to bleed the cooling system properly when you are done.

Also watch that coolant level like a hawk. You might have a pinholed radiator and we all know how easily these engines will cop with low coolant levels (not).
 
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my cinq is terrible. it barely gets up to temp, even in the summer. i fitted a new thermostat and it was slightly better for a while, but its back to being crappy.

there are no leaks, the level is spot on. can someone confirm which type of thermostat i need?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THERMOSTA...pe:1.4&hash=item23580e5a4b:g:Wo8AAOSwTapV51Ph

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8846-FIAT...pe:1.4&hash=item2a4cc769af:g:T2EAAOSwNSxU7vzT

and does the colour of the temperature sensor make any difference?
I had two green and a brown temp sensor, these had different ressistance between colours at different temperatures...
 
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The thermostat is a simple change. Just be sure to bleed the cooling system properly when you are done.

Also watch that coolant level like a hawk. You might have a pinholed radiator and we all know how easily these engines will cop with low coolant levels (not).

When I changed the pump I found it self bled pretty well as the expansion tank is the highest point, unlike my cinq with the stupid bleed hole in the heater matrix top hose!

Must have been ok as was fine for a good 8 months or so, just recently it has been acting up.

I will just have to have a look at the housing and sensor to try and match them up
 
Just an update: fitted new thermostat. Pretty simple apart from the plastic connectors all snapping due to being so brittle.
All good now, car warms up and gets to the midpoint on the gauge like it should.
Just need to wait for the next thing to break now!
 
Just an update: fitted new thermostat. Pretty simple apart from the plastic connectors all snapping due to being so brittle.
All good now, car warms up and gets to the midpoint on the gauge like it should.
Just need to wait for the next thing to break now!

Which make of thermostat did you use out of interest?

Mine runs very cool and only fully gets up to temperature when idling in traffic...time to change the 'stat methinks.
 
Just an update: fitted new thermostat. Pretty simple apart from the plastic connectors all snapping due to being so brittle.
All good now, car warms up and gets to the midpoint on the gauge like it should.
Just need to wait for the next thing to break now!

Put some in-system radiator sealant in the header tank. Use Barrs Leaks or similar absolutely NOT the stuff that claims to fix head gaskets.
 
Put some in-system radiator sealant in the header tank. Use Barrs Leaks or similar absolutely NOT the stuff that claims to fix head gaskets.

And why in the hell would I do that?
that stuff is for dodgy car dealers or People who want to limp the car along for a bit before scrapping it.

If the radiator goes, I will get a replacement!!!
 
Which make of thermostat did you use out of interest?

Mine runs very cool and only fully gets up to temperature when idling in traffic...time to change the 'stat methinks.

I got a birth stat. EBay item number: 251939617723

I've bought really cheap stats in the past and had to change them the year after.
 
And why in the hell would I do that?
that stuff is for dodgy car dealers or People who want to limp the car along for a bit before scrapping it.

If the radiator goes, I will get a replacement!!!

You clearly have little idea of how rapidly the Fiat FIRE engine will overheat and blow it's head gasket (or worse) when the coolant level drops. The temperature gauge really gives any useful warning.

Barrs Leaks (or similar) are basic in-system sealants. They will deal with radiator pinholes that sooner or later will happen on any older car especially one with an aluminium radiator. It's not a product used by dodgy car dealers (1) because those products don't work and (2) and obviously blown radiators can't be sealed.

It's entirely up to you. Wait until you hear gurgling sounds from your heater and hope the engine survives or take a low cost precaution.
 
You clearly have little idea of how rapidly the Fiat FIRE engine will overheat and blow it's head gasket (or worse) when the coolant level drops. The temperature gauge really gives any useful warning.

Barrs Leaks (or similar) are basic in-system sealants. They will deal with radiator pinholes that sooner or later will happen on any older car especially one with an aluminium radiator. It's not a product used by dodgy car dealers (1) because those products don't work and (2) and obviously blown radiators can't be sealed.

It's entirely up to you. Wait until you hear gurgling sounds from your heater and hope the engine survives or take a low cost precaution.


Bad idea. Radweld etc. isn't a preventative measure.
 
I have to agree that bars/radweld etc are not a good idea, if anything they can make the situation worse by blocking narrow waterways and leaving a nasty sludge in the expansion tank.
 
Sorry but this is just not true.

I fully agree that the snake oil "liquid head gasket" is very harmful but what I'm on about will seal pinholes only. Corrosion pinholes in the radiator will gradually empty your coolant and stress the head gasket until it blows.

Any sudden leak will blow and you'll know immediately. With luck be able to stop the engine before its too late. Nothing internal will protect from that.

If you want to be fussy about it, change the radiator and coolant cross pipe and then you know they can't develop any slow leaks. Its an old car so that option has merit.

To recap: One option is cheap and simple with no side effects. The other is expensive but at least you can be self righteous in knowing the "job was done properly".
 
What an absolute load of rubbish. These products are designed to temporarily repair leaks, not to be in the system as a precaution.


Regular maintenance is what you need to spot these problems - look for tired hoses, salting, discolouration and so on.


Please don't offer advice like this, you can cause more harm than good. You need to be able to identify leaks when they appear, not hide them. Having a sealant in the system is more likely to lead to a catastrophic failure as you'll hide all the warning signs before the big failure.
 
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