So finally got time to lift her, and crawl under her to swap the U-joint, and have a look, first thing I noticed when I got the cover off, the U-joint is spot-welded on, meaning it can turn frely, but it cannot be taken out without applying heat (and likely melting the joint).

getting the screws marked "B" unscrewed I realised the driveshaft had loosened, and can move somewhat around in the cup? marked A, I aligned it again, but I dont believe this will hold for many minutes, so it might actually be whats causing the shake/noise, as far as I can discern, it cannot get out of the cup while under tension from the middle part. C, the sock? moves back and forth under light touch, I have no idea how it's supposed to behave.. I guess I'll have to order a new propshaft? since this is "slightly off balance"...

the spot, D in the third picture is after the Viscous Coupling, is where it moves back and forth in the differential, I was under the impression that the viscous coupling should allow small movements to happen to one end without transferring it, but this seems like its not the case?

DaveMcT said:

The car that I nearly spun on the M40 concrete section (it was along time ago) was but wobbly at the back end but not "that" bad and had passed an MOT not long before. Clearly the rear shocks were very bad. I changed them and it became obvious what had been going on.

Don't forget to check all wheels for balance.

Click to expand...

It's not the wheels, after changing back to front no difference at all, if they had been misbalanced they would be differently misbalanced, making a change noticeable (unless balanced on a faulty machine) I have changed the front suspension, which is now fine, the rear suspension seem like they are fine as well, I might consider changing the shocks sometime in the spring when the white stuff leaves the driveway... Come spring I'll have a new set of tires mounted to the wheels since they are cheap quality the shoes she's sitting on

The only way to properly check the drive shaft UJ is to remove the shaft from the car. It could be worn splines on the gearbox output or a worn Hardy-Spicer cross in the UJ. However, with the car securely on jacks give it a good tug about there should be no rattles or clunks.

In the old days the UJ cross was retained with circlips. These days they are staked (fit and forget). The UJ can be replaced but needs special tools to cut the stake marks and realign the shaft while staking the new bearing caps.

Ideally, the shaft should also be balanced.

DaveMcT said:

The only way to properly check the drive shaft UJ is to remove the shaft from the car. It could be worn splines on the gearbox output or a worn Hardy-Spicer cross in the UJ. However, with the car securely on jacks give it a good tug about there should be no rattles or clunks.

In the old days the UJ cross was retained with circlips. These days they are staked (fit and forget). The UJ can be replaced but needs special tools to cut the stake marks and realign the shaft while staking the new bearing caps.

Ideally, the shaft should also be balanced.

Click to expand...

I suspect it has broken, after being under it, theres cluncks, and rattles, and it doesnt move any power to the rear wheels, despite the viscous coupling apparantly transferring everything... so I ordered a new propshaft this morning for the money-pit... I have new driveshafts for the front wheels I need to find time to mount, and from the look of it I need to do the rears as well, this Panda is teaching me a lot about buying cars used Although I've not seen a 4x4 Panda for sale in the colour-scheme I want for anywhere near what I've paid so far...

When I'm done with this I should consider servicing all brake-parts, just to make sure - the "man" who sold it to me said he'd fixed the brakes as well as most other parts I've changed so far... but they work very nicely, and stops the car better than my white Panda ciao so...

Success! The moneypit no longer has a wobble!, she no longer makes hotrible drivenoise either, a new propshaft was all it took, only ~300£ on ebay (local dealer quoted me 1250£) Im quite happy.. attached is new/old, how it looked at either end detached and the balljoint that met me at the gearbox-end... I had to pull it out, along with the box it sat in... a thick metal rod and it was out and then in with the new propshaft.

Viscous couplings are a little strange. Turning slowly they transmit very little power, but soon them up and the special oil transmits drive. The Panda puts about 90% torque to the front until a front wheel begin to slip then the relative speed difference causes the coupling to deliver power to the back.