The boost sensor will be on the intake manifold at the back of the engine as you look at it from the front of the care. It may just need a clean like mine did on bumble. Iirc it's just 2 10 mm head bolts and a multi plug. I cleaned mine with wd40 and a sprayed the contacts with it aswell.
General 07 Panda 1.3 MJ - timing chain precaution
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General 07 Panda 1.3 MJ - timing chain precaution
I ended up cleaning pretty much all of the connectors I could find, but that was more out of desperation than science at the time.
The engine was pretty filthy and had just had a soaking in diesel (long story).
Start with the manifold sensor like Dozer suggests. Then try the ECU multiplugs.
Always worth checking the cheapest options first.
It may just be coincidence that it happened on a test drive, and the sensor has actually failed, but otherwise, is there a any chance that someone may have disturbed any underbonnet cabling? If so, that gives a good place to look for a loose connector.
The engine was pretty filthy and had just had a soaking in diesel (long story).
Start with the manifold sensor like Dozer suggests. Then try the ECU multiplugs.
Always worth checking the cheapest options first.
It may just be coincidence that it happened on a test drive, and the sensor has actually failed, but otherwise, is there a any chance that someone may have disturbed any underbonnet cabling? If so, that gives a good place to look for a loose connector.
So I went and bought about a ton of WD40 and went to do some work on the car. The engine light was off, so I didn't get my hands dirty anymore. Could this be a wastegate actuator issue? Anyway, I'll get this checked out on Monday, when I have the aux belt changed.
Updates!
Had the aux belt changed - I was told that they've never seen a belt as bad as that one. The noise is gone, yay!
Not so yay is the result of the diagnosis for the fault code. They scanned again and found P0101 and P0238 -- diagnosed as seized wastegate, in need of a new turbo. So they quoted me 635 quid for fitting a new turbo, or 565 quid for a refurbished one - prices include oil change + filters and VAT.
Now... I don't know what do to. That's quite a lot of money. What do you think?
Had the aux belt changed - I was told that they've never seen a belt as bad as that one. The noise is gone, yay!
Not so yay is the result of the diagnosis for the fault code. They scanned again and found P0101 and P0238 -- diagnosed as seized wastegate, in need of a new turbo. So they quoted me 635 quid for fitting a new turbo, or 565 quid for a refurbished one - prices include oil change + filters and VAT.
Now... I don't know what do to. That's quite a lot of money. What do you think?
Turbos are £175 new on eBay. But you can buy the actuator seperate which is what usually seizes on them. Try to free it with molegrips on the actuator rod and spray wd40 or the likes onto it.
If you do need a turbo it's a kp35. Same as a corsa 1.3, clio 1.5.
If you do need a turbo it's a kp35. Same as a corsa 1.3, clio 1.5.
A new actuator is only £25 on eBay.
Was the other fault code for a map fault? If so can it also be cleaned with wd40? It's probably throwing up that fault code as it's not reading enough pressure from the turbo. Sorting the actuator may solve the map fault code.
Was the other fault code for a map fault? If so can it also be cleaned with wd40? It's probably throwing up that fault code as it's not reading enough pressure from the turbo. Sorting the actuator may solve the map fault code.
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Yes, P0101 appears to be related to the MAP sensor.
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0101
Can the actuator be swapped without removing the turbo?
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0101
Can the actuator be swapped without removing the turbo?
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2nd opinion . as it appears to come and go.. dodgy electrical connection..??
Actuators usually can be freed up. I know of at least 3 owners who have replaced the whole turbo when they almost certainly didn't need to. There are some posts on here showing how to do it.
(All 3 turbo replacements were on cars owned by elderly drivers who just pootled around. Only time the cars got revved up was probably at MOT time)
Recovered wife's mj actuator with no dismantling at all when we bought the car. Used a pry bar and gently but firmly moved the actuator a few times.
Didn't lubricate it, as I suspect it would cause problems when it baked on.
Has worked fine ever since.
Just need to use some boost (over 3000 rpm) regularly to keep it freed up.
Worth a try. If it doesn't sort the problem then try actuator replacement, but obviously that requires some dismantling.
(All 3 turbo replacements were on cars owned by elderly drivers who just pootled around. Only time the cars got revved up was probably at MOT time)
Recovered wife's mj actuator with no dismantling at all when we bought the car. Used a pry bar and gently but firmly moved the actuator a few times.
Didn't lubricate it, as I suspect it would cause problems when it baked on.
Has worked fine ever since.
Just need to use some boost (over 3000 rpm) regularly to keep it freed up.
Worth a try. If it doesn't sort the problem then try actuator replacement, but obviously that requires some dismantling.
notsmartcars
New member
As has been mentioned the waste gate is seized so,the fault code is telling the truth ...over boost ....I free mine with a tyre lever from under neath if your near Exeter bring it over 
One thing I forgot to mention... sometimes the actuator gets slightly too stiff to move fully and quickly enough, but doesn't trigger an error in gentle driving. Somebody "hoss"-ing it a bit may catch it out and throw an error code, where it may just be able to cope with less right foot. Still needs freeing up, and occasional heavier throttle to keep it working.
Harder fault to spot, as EML goes out after a few restarts (as it is then working how the ECU expects).
Harder fault to spot, as EML goes out after a few restarts (as it is then working how the ECU expects).
notsmartcars
New member
It's seized I'm afraid ...you can run it up to probably 65mph with out the boost reaching the trip level then if you "boot it " or even slowly accelerate up say 85 mph the boost will still exceed the "trip" level and light will come on and then limp mode .
After around four or so engine off and on cycles the light will go off and normal power will be restored however go over boost and your back in square one
After around four or so engine off and on cycles the light will go off and normal power will be restored however go over boost and your back in square one
notsmartcars I totally agree it would still need the same treatment as a completely siezed actuator. Just harder to spot unless you have a code reader handy, unless you are looking for it.
The nice old buffer who had the problem never got the "hard" cut off at about 3000 rpm - he was still getting boost at 4000 rpm (I was in the passenger seat, watching closely - I'm not a good passenger!).
However, when his grand-daughter drove the car it often came home with the EML on.
Got her to take me for a spin too. Same sort of speed, but much heavier right foot.
5 minutes with a pry bar sorted it.
He had the car from nearly new, never noticed any problems, and she had only been using it when back from university.
The nice old buffer who had the problem never got the "hard" cut off at about 3000 rpm - he was still getting boost at 4000 rpm (I was in the passenger seat, watching closely - I'm not a good passenger!).
However, when his grand-daughter drove the car it often came home with the EML on.
Got her to take me for a spin too. Same sort of speed, but much heavier right foot.
5 minutes with a pry bar sorted it.
He had the car from nearly new, never noticed any problems, and she had only been using it when back from university.
notsmartcars
Never got the check engine light when I drove the car, it was triggered once by a mechanic while doing "a test run round the block". 80% of my driving is on motorways and I never had a problem going around the speeds you mention - never got "limp mode". So I guess my Panda's situation is closer to what irc described in the last post.
I decided that before I start considering changing the turbo, I'll try to do the actuator trick, and while I'm there I'll also replace the MAP sensor. If this works, I'd save a lot of money.
Thank you all for your input! I will let you know how it went, probably around the start of next week.
Never got the check engine light when I drove the car, it was triggered once by a mechanic while doing "a test run round the block". 80% of my driving is on motorways and I never had a problem going around the speeds you mention - never got "limp mode". So I guess my Panda's situation is closer to what irc described in the last post.
I decided that before I start considering changing the turbo, I'll try to do the actuator trick, and while I'm there I'll also replace the MAP sensor. If this works, I'd save a lot of money.
Thank you all for your input! I will let you know how it went, probably around the start of next week.
Update type (sad).
The wastegate stuff is done, runs nicely (or did run).
Yesterday I ran the car on low fuel levels (had around 5L left) and then filled it up with Shell premium. I also started running the car with a bit of 2-stroke oil which makes it a bit more pleasant to drive. However, today I revved it a bit (~3800rpm) uphill and a bit of black smoke came out. A bit later, the engine started to sound badly (knocks in sync with the engine rev). I managed to arrive at my destination and discovered that diesel was being sprayed into the engine bay. Got it sent back home with a potential faulty injector. Anyway, it doesn't sound cheap... waiting for a call from the garage, hopefully with decent news.
The wastegate stuff is done, runs nicely (or did run).
Yesterday I ran the car on low fuel levels (had around 5L left) and then filled it up with Shell premium. I also started running the car with a bit of 2-stroke oil which makes it a bit more pleasant to drive. However, today I revved it a bit (~3800rpm) uphill and a bit of black smoke came out. A bit later, the engine started to sound badly (knocks in sync with the engine rev). I managed to arrive at my destination and discovered that diesel was being sprayed into the engine bay. Got it sent back home with a potential faulty injector. Anyway, it doesn't sound cheap... waiting for a call from the garage, hopefully with decent news.
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