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Technical Disc break problem

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Technical Disc break problem

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Should a disk break do this? If not there is noise coming from the part further under the car shown in video what's the part called WO I can replace it? Cheers (can someone tell me how to attatch a video I get invalid file type what types are allowed or do I need to post on external site and send a link?)
 
For those reading this before I post the video to explain I can move the disc itself forward and backwards about an inch...
 
The brake disc is held on basically by the wheel bolts, so if the pads aren't in contact with the disk then it will probably move as you describe. Maybe your caliper is seized and the pads aren't snug up against the disk?
 
Trimdoner said:
The brake disc is held on basically by the wheel bolts, so if the pads aren't in contact with the disk then it will probably move as you describe. Maybe your caliper is seized and the pads aren't snug up against the disk?
Click to expand...


there SHOULD be a small screw holding the disc onto the hub,
being "located" by the wheel studs is a 1970's technique..not at all conducive to discs running true to the hub.

ePER shows how it is supposed to work;
http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...INT_MODE=0&EPER_CAT=SP&WINDOW_ID=1&GUI_LANG=3


newbie fiat

in what way / direction do you have an inch of free play..??:confused:

my suspicion is it's NOT the disc itself..:chin:

Charlie 1.1 Active
 
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So to explain, took the wheel off, and was cleaning up the disc and caliper as was getting a bit of squeeking when breaking, also as I have just bought it wanted to check pad wear levels. Almost new btw. The caliper remains perfectly still but the disk and the shaft it is bolted too can move forwards and backwards about an inch. Really would help if I could post the video. Anyone any ideas how?
 
You will have some rotational "play" in the drive shaft before is starts to turn the diff. It's slack in the diff and it's perfectly normal.

An inch is good, old Land Rover have around a 1/4 of a turn!

What you need to watch out for is rotational differences between the two halves of the drive shaft.
This is a sign the CV joint is on it's way out.

You can try gripping the inner CV joint case close to the gearbox and rotate the wheel, it should all turn as one, perhaps just the slightest of movement.

Other signs of knackered CV joints are:
Popping or cracking sounds while driving on full steering lock.
A drive line slap or knock as you pull away/brake.
The can also cause a vibration at speed as they spin out of true.
 
after some thinking i did come up with that thought but thanks for clarifying it for me! the disc wouldn't move when i did the left side but that may be the caliper is a bit seized as mentioned before, it seems to brake straight but thinking about it this could be the pad slightly catching on the wheel that pull the car to the left, i assumed it was tracking as i have to point my steering wheel slightly to the right to drive straight about 1 o clock to drive straight.

i actually have a question regarding that, you adjust the nut on the track rod end to adjust tracking correct? but it has been said after just a few pot holes tracking can go out again. now is this because of the nut vibrating and moving slightly hence the need to adjust it or are the track rod ends there to adjust to compensate for wear and misalignment in other parts of the suspension and steering system. and am i right in thinking tracking is not the wheels pointing too far out or in its the angle the wheel is on so a crude example is | | is good tracking \ \ is bad and would cause the vehicle to pull the the left and bald the inside of the tire quickly and / / again would cause the vehicle to pull the the right and bald the outside edge of the tire. the example being based on a drivers side tyre...
 
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You mentioned a left seized caliper? That will cause the car to steer to the left. This needs sorting asap.

Regarding the tracking it will need laser tracking as you just can't be guessing toe in/out! But to adjust it you slacken the nut and use some mole grips on the tie rod (the threaded bar that screws into the track rod end) but if you try this just watch that the rubber gaitor isn't twisting with the tie rod.

Yes tracking that is out will wear the edges of the tyres depending if it's toeing in or out. A worn track control arm (bottom y shaped arm) can cause the tyres to wear the inside edge aswell)
 
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Rotational movement of 1 inch at the disc rim is backlash (space between gear teeth) in the gearbox. Sounds normal or better than normal.

Radial movement of the disc would mean the wheel bearing has failed.

Movement towards or away from the car would also be failed bearings or something even worse but that should be stopped by the brake caliper.
 
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