We discovered on Friday a little dangling item under the Panda.. Much less strange than it sounds I assure you..

Apparently welding that back around the exhaust is an easy enough task and should work well.. Or is there anything important I should know that I'm overlooking?

This could be responsible for a grinding like noise happening when the car is accelerating hard under load.. Thoughts?

One thought.... Have you checked your engine mounts? Only times I've had brackets go like that have been when engine has been rocking backwards and forwards a bit too much.
Should be easy enough to weld up as long as pipe has not got too thin.
irc

You can't weld to rust, it just won't take.

So if you can't grind the two parts back to clean, rust free metal without loosing too much strength or shape, you'll need a new exhaust centre pipe.

They are too expansive and they are simple to fit, I did my last one by just parking two wheels up on a kerb.

Pro tip, go to your local auto factors and buy some threaded bar with a similar diameter to the mount bar. Bend to shape (vice and hammer) and weld on. Remember a weld is only as good as the metal being welded, get it clean!

Like others, I suspect by this stage the exhaust metal might have the consistency of a crisp packet. On your last video I notices there was some sooting coming from the 'front' of the silencer, which suggests the backend of the system is getting ready.

I'm sure when I priced one up at our local exhaust place it was about £40-£50 fitted. Get a price for that first.

As noted - they are technically easy to fit...........if the bolts undo ok. Again, apply the love-your-knuckles price test.

There are numerous temporary things you can do at the moment. Metal tie wrap would be the easiest. Jubilee clips. I've in the past put two jubilee clips round pipe & welded the prong onto that. This will get you going until zorst needs replacing.

Personally
SB1500
Fit an exhaust joint clamp at that point. Tighten in place..so you can fit the mount bungee onto the clamps treaded section.


Better than the original..and still using exhaust parts..

Charlie

AB100 said:

On your last video I notices there was some sooting coming from the 'front' of the silencer

Click to expand...

It's a condensation drain hole, they all have one.

irc said:

One thought.... Have you checked your engine mounts? Only times I've had brackets go like that have been when engine has been rocking backwards and forwards a bit too much.
Should be easy enough to weld up as long as pipe has not got too thin.
irc

Click to expand...

I haven't checked the engine mounts, how can I check them (or take some photos for you guys to tell me what you think) and if they do need done, is this difficult or expensive? Would hate to think they've gone and are causing the exhaust to rock and damage itself.

Goudrons said:

You can't weld to rust, it just won't take.

So if you can't grind the two parts back to clean, rust free metal without loosing too much strength or shape, you'll need a new exhaust centre pipe.

They are too expansive and they are simple to fit, I did my last one by just parking two wheels up on a kerb.

Click to expand...

The pipe is solid feeling, maybe if we cleaned up the area where it would be welded down to the metal and welded it it would be okay? Glad to know we could definitely fit them in the garage. Planning on getting a good trolley jack too for the garage as a gift for them letting me use it and helping me with the car repairs. Don't worry, Fiat Forums donation is coming too!

Asa James said:

Pro tip, go to your local auto factors and buy some threaded bar with a similar diameter to the mount bar. Bend to shape (vice and hammer) and weld on. Remember a weld is only as good as the metal being welded, get it clean!

Click to expand...

Can it really be that easy?

AB100 said:

Like others, I suspect by this stage the exhaust metal might have the consistency of a crisp packet. On your last video I notices there was some sooting coming from the 'front' of the silencer, which suggests the backend of the system is getting ready.

I'm sure when I priced one up at our local exhaust place it was about £40-£50 fitted. Get a price for that first.

As noted - they are technically easy to fit...........if the bolts undo ok. Again, apply the love-your-knuckles price test.

Click to expand...

As mentioned before there, feels solid I don't know if that's sufficient enough for it to be OKAY though. So the £50 would be it fitted? Wouldn't mind fitting it myself if it is easy as some others have said. If the bolts won't undo maybe we'll invent another long-leverage tool to sort it haha

jimboy said:

There are numerous temporary things you can do at the moment. Metal tie wrap would be the easiest. Jubilee clips. I've in the past put two jubilee clips round pipe & welded the prong onto that. This will get you going until zorst needs replacing.

Click to expand...

Depending on the cost and advice on a possible replacement / weld I may well have to do this lol

varesecrazy said:

Personally
SB1500
Fit an exhaust joint clamp at that point. Tighten in place..so you can fit the mount bungee onto the clamps treaded section.


Better than the original..and still using exhaust parts..

Charlie

Click to expand...

I don't even understand that :-/ I'm still an amateur despite getting through some good maintenance tasks lol Apologies for needing it explained like a 5 year old still

simply wrap this around the exhaust pipe, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60mm-Exha...425863?hash=item43de2eec07:g:-ZIAAOSwstxVetIh

do check the diameter is CLOSE to the exhaust tube size ( you can use a longer bolt / studding as required)

tighten the nut until it's a snug fit around the exhaust pipe,

then - with the plain thread sticking out "horizontally - under the rubber mount" - you can use that to connect with the rubber exhaust mount to the bodywork..
no grinding or welding.., just 10 mins with a 13mm spanner

look under the rear of car to see a similar item at the silencer join ;-)

varesecrazy said:

simply wrap this around the exhaust pipe, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60mm-Exha...425863?hash=item43de2eec07:g:-ZIAAOSwstxVetIh

do check the diameter is CLOSE to the exhaust tube size ( you can use a longer bolt / studding as required)

tighten the nut until it's a snug fit around the exhaust pipe,

then - with the plain thread sticking out "horizontally - under the rubber mount" - you can use that to connect with the rubber exhaust mount to the bodywork..
no grinding or welding.., just 10 mins with a 13mm spanner

look under the rear of car to see a similar item at the silencer join ;-)

Click to expand...

Damn you're good at explaining this stuff.

All of you guys are.

If it wasn't for your advice and product recommendations I'd be that idiot all the local mechanics laugh about whilst they pay off their Mercedes and foreign holidays under my last penny :') haha

When I get money the part shall be ordered and a nice picture guide thread for future Panda owners created!

On the topic of engine mountings, as was wisely noted, these can be the cause rather than the issue.


In the past I had a rear engine mount fail. It was obvious (after the fact) as when you revved the engine from idle the engine itself would buck like a mule, rocking forward with inertia. This amount of movement is grim because it puts other components under stress - mainly the exhaust.


So, next task is stand facing the car with bonnet open whilst your buddy blips the throttle and observe the engine movement to see if it's excessive.

After this you can manually try and move the engine when it's off - it should offer high resistance to being rocked.


Finally, for good measure, jack your car up with some cheap scissors and then chock it with frozen loaves. Lie under the car and check out the engine mounts - particularly the rear one for perished rubber. The first part of this sentence was to check that folks were paying attention.

AB100 said:

On the topic of engine mountings, as was wisely noted, these can be the cause rather than the issue.


In the past I had a rear engine mount fail. It was obvious (after the fact) as when you revved the engine from idle the engine itself would buck like a mule, rocking forward with inertia. This amount of movement is grim because it puts other components under stress .

Finally, for good measure, jack your car up with some cheap scissors and then chock it with frozen loaves. Lie under the car and check out the engine mounts - particularly the rear one for perished rubber. The first part of this sentence was to check that folks were paying attention.

Click to expand...

BUSH MECHANICS...
:/)

To be fair with the original 1986 panda FIRE.
the phrase was.."if it doesnt hit the firewall or radiator..the mounts are still ok"...shocked by this I tested mine..and with a HAND by the filler bung..you could rock the engine a fair distance..!!

Never had any issues..barring an appetite for cluch CABLES...(remember them..??!!)

:')

varesecrazy said:

Never had any issues..barring an appetite for cluch CABLES...(remember them..??!!)

:')

Click to expand...

I do. I remember driving home 12 miles from Sheffield with a snapped cable in our Seicento. In rush hour. Not easy, but not impossible.

SB1500 said:

We discovered on Friday a little dangling item under the Panda.. Much less strange than it sounds I assure you.. View attachment 169713

Apparently welding that back around the exhaust is an easy enough task and should work well.. Or is there anything important I should know that I'm overlooking?

This could be responsible for a grinding like noise happening when the car is accelerating hard under load.. Thoughts?

Click to expand...

have you re-attached the suspended rubber mount yet..??

varesecrazy said:

have you re-attached the suspended rubber mount yet..??

Click to expand...

Hello, not yet.

I found out my friend has an MIG Welder, four axel stands so we have the 'stuff' to do it, but my uncle seems a bit busy this weekend.

Contemplating if we could do it ourselves (we have access to the garage anytime like). Is it as easy as it looks if we got that rusty part cleaned up?

did you sort this? and for anyone else reading, i have the same issue though i have no access to welding equipment im looking to go down the route of exhaust clamp with bolt into rubber (thing) does anyone know the exhaust diameter? or have a link to the right size clamp? is the one provided earlier the correct size?

Cheers

newbie fiat said:

did you sort this? and for anyone else reading, i have the same issue though i have no access to welding equipment im looking to go down the route of exhaust clamp with bolt into rubber (thing) does anyone know the exhaust diameter? or have a link to the right size clamp? is the one provided earlier the correct size?

Cheers

Click to expand...

Hi,
ok , found some time ( and weather) to take some pics and measurements

mine is an active 1.1 from 2004,
still original pipe under car




the @40mm diameter measurement was taken on the straight section..

looking at ePER mine is the basic "straight system,
http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...INT_MODE=0&EPER_CAT=SP&GUI_LANG=3&WINDOW_ID=1
looks same rear box as current 500 / Ka

Very helpful thanks, mine looks the same although I have almost no rust at all on my pipe, I am wondering why the bracket had snapped already when the pipe is clean, the bracket is very rusty though, it must rust faster than the exhaust. On another note what tyre is that? Looks to have a rather small side wall. I need a full new set on mine shortly

newbie fiat said:

Very helpful thanks, mine looks the same although I have almost no rust at all on my pipe, I am wondering why the bracket had snapped already when the pipe is clean, the bracket is very rusty though, it must rust faster than the exhaust. On another note what tyre is that? Looks to have a rather small side wall. I need a full new set on mine shortly

Click to expand...

no problem ,
as I said mine is now 12 years old.., had 2 replacement rear boxes..

tyres.. it's currently on a spare set of 13" seicento sporting alloys..
YES - almost TOO SMALL.. loses a lot of the panda's great ground clearance

it's lived on Punto JTD alloys for @ 3 years - 14" and suit the car well.



feels much more "planted" on the road,

Charlie - Oxford