General High mileage Pandas (at least 100K miles on the clock)
- Thread starter Wee Smurf
- Start date
Currently reading:
General High mileage Pandas (at least 100K miles on the clock)
When it's not steady, it's always the thermostat.
Next picture 123.456 miles? Pretty impressive though.
gr J
Next picture 123.456 miles? Pretty impressive though.
gr J
OP
OP
When it's not steady, it's always the thermostat.
Next picture 123.456 miles? Pretty impressive though.
gr J
Looking forward to that already! Probably this time next year or earlier given current use.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2016
- Messages
- 40
- Points
- 60
Picking up a very tidy 100hp with 99.5k on the clock tomorrow hoping that the raft of history that comes with it will stand us in good stead....!
notsmartcars
New member
My wife's Panda 1.2 and 2008 has done 180kkm which equals 112k miles. We bought it from new. Besides regular oil changes and spark plugs I have had to replace lower ball joints (or actually the full arms ... wishbones in English?) due to MOT failures. I have replaced the gear/transmission linkages, and I am going to replace the radiator also. The front brakes have been renewed twice. The rear ones are as new. I have replaced the rear muffler also and the timing belt 2 or 3 times (very easy compared to my Peugeot 406 V6 hehe). I have also replaced some bulbs and front drive shafts. I think that is about it. Still same clutch, gearbox and engine.
I think compared to Peugeot and Citroen, parts are quite expensive. E.g. the dual gear linkage cable was like 250 Euros.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I have replaced the battery once.
I think compared to Peugeot and Citroen, parts are quite expensive. E.g. the dual gear linkage cable was like 250 Euros.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I have replaced the battery once.
Last edited:
What made you replace the gear linkage / how did you know it had a problem? I ask as I have rough gear changes and have wondered if it was the linkages as the car goes up and down and holds its gears perfectly.
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2008
- Messages
- 452
- Points
- 99
Got to do a new clutch in are Panda this week! at 190k
(1.2 FIRE Dynamic model)
(1.2 FIRE Dynamic model)
tenpastnine We're doing the one on my Panda soon, as well as the bearings and seals on the gearbox.. we..'think' we know what we're in for lol
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2008
- Messages
- 452
- Points
- 99
SB1500 I'm fairly sure we are in for the biggest nightmare of all time!
We got a clutch alignment tool, I'll have to post some place about how p***ed I am nothing is going as planned.
We got quoted £450 at a garage, an to be fair the car hasn't cost anything over the past few years so not really a big deal, but i'd like to give it ago!
We got a clutch alignment tool, I'll have to post some place about how p***ed I am nothing is going as planned.
We got quoted £450 at a garage, an to be fair the car hasn't cost anything over the past few years so not really a big deal, but i'd like to give it ago!
Last edited:
If you'd like me to email you the instruction from eLearn (The Fiat Dealer / Workshop Catalogue) for the clutch job let me know by PM'ing your email address.
It has the removal / refitting instructions
It has the removal / refitting instructions
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2009
- Messages
- 19,492
- Points
- 3,294
Many people struggle to get the gearbox to side back onto the engine.
Tip 1
Be really sure the driven plate is centralised (you have the kit for that). But if the kit is a loose fit into the driven plate wrap some PVC tape around the tool so the plate really does sit centrally.
Tip 2
Be really sure the gearbox and engine joint faces are parallel in all planes. If it's a few degrees out the crank end wont slip into place. And its putting side strain on the gearbox input shaft.
Tip 3
When the gearbox and clutch plate splines wont align, turn the gearbox shaft or the flywheel a few degrees. The splines should drop in neatly.
Tip 4
If you follow what seems to be a short cut, expect it to cause more problems than it solves. I mean if you think "I can do this with that <object> in place", the chances are it will be much easier to remove the <object> than struggle around it.
A little copper paste on the clutch splines is a good idea to reduce any risk of fretting between clutch and input shaft. Just a smear will do.
Tip 1
Be really sure the driven plate is centralised (you have the kit for that). But if the kit is a loose fit into the driven plate wrap some PVC tape around the tool so the plate really does sit centrally.
Tip 2
Be really sure the gearbox and engine joint faces are parallel in all planes. If it's a few degrees out the crank end wont slip into place. And its putting side strain on the gearbox input shaft.
Tip 3
When the gearbox and clutch plate splines wont align, turn the gearbox shaft or the flywheel a few degrees. The splines should drop in neatly.
Tip 4
If you follow what seems to be a short cut, expect it to cause more problems than it solves. I mean if you think "I can do this with that <object> in place", the chances are it will be much easier to remove the <object> than struggle around it.
A little copper paste on the clutch splines is a good idea to reduce any risk of fretting between clutch and input shaft. Just a smear will do.
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2008
- Messages
- 452
- Points
- 99
