This afternoon I changed the coolant in my Panda (1.2 petrol). After putting in about 3 litres of the new coolant the level in the expansion tank was already well above the maximum mark. With the car running I managed to squeeze some air out the of the bleed nipples by squeezing the hoses. I then took the car around the block a few times and tried again. I let the car cool down, but the level in the expansion tank was still above maximum. I ran the car again (with a lot of bubbling noises from the heater) and then tried to bleed some more air out, but there was no bubbling at the bleed nipple, just a constant stream of coolant. How can I get the rest of the air out?

hi,
personally I would drain again and refill with all the valves open,
always works for me.., did you do the one on the Rad..??

charlie

Yes, both of the valves were open.

Coolant level is not an indicator of air in the system. When you drain it, some will be left in the block, so if you've added the amount stated for a dry fill, it will be too much.

If all the hoses are firm when the engine is warm, the heater works, and the radiator gets hot all over, its fine.

Open the heater to full flow when changing coolant.

I don't think there is a tap for the coolant flow to the heater, hot water flows all the time, the temp controls just adjust how much air passes through the matrix and how much by-passes it. Correct and relevant advise for all heaters with taps, and won't do any harm.

Without wanting to sound stupid (which I often do here), did you check how much was drained out? As long as the same amount went back in, you have a fail safe situation.

And when you went round the block several times, was the engine temperature normal on your return? We're the heater controls 'open', both when draining and when refilling?

Just a few thoughts that might help.

Sounds like you've over filled it. As long as its not over heating I'd leave as it is, it'll push out anything not required via the pressure release cap if needs be

To bleed the system, read this post (found by using the 'Search this forum' link)
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/229229-heater-problems.html?p=2426485

System needs to be hot (hot enough to have made the cooling fan operate). Moving the heater control in the car has no effect - hot water always passes through the heater matrix and the levers direct the air through it or round it as needed

Run the engine with the cap off the expansion tank till the engine is hot, let it run on for a while.. if you watch you will see the air locks blurping out and your water level drop as it replaces the air that was locked. Also rev the engine occasionally as the helps rush the water around the system. This is a tip my dad gave me and it does work. If you leave it to long your water will spew over so make sure you turn the engine off when the air escapes and leave the engine to cool for an hour before putting your cap back on to allow the water to contract.

Is there just the one bleed nipple on these (back, near bulkhead)?

I've just had my thermostat changed at a garage and it's gurgling when the engine is started... opened that bleed nipple and some air came out but it's a constant stream and still gurgling.

Bled it 3 times now and still gurgling. I can't find the words to say how much of a pain this car is. One day I snap and get the damn thing crushed.

There is the one bleed nipple at the bulkhead, plus probably one at the top of the radiator.

Contrary to the advice above, leave the cap on tight as the engine warms up. This allows the temp increase to pressurise the system, so helping push the air out when you bleed it.

First bleed the rad, then at the bulkhead.
Run the engine, keep feeling the hoses to determine when the thermostat opens, and that water is flowing through the heater.
As it gets hot, re-bleed the rad, then at the bulkhead. Take care not to scald.

Took the car back to the garage and they bled it again, got back in, turned the key, gurgling straight away again.

Took it to another garage (had to take a day off work, didn't fancy driving through rush hour with a questionable cooling system) and they have said its fine

The hoses are hard, temp gauge at middle, doesnt overheat, fan kicks in and out etc, heater blows hot but surely it can't be right? It's only just started doing it since the thermostat was changed. I've never had a car do that before with the exception of a mk2 Punto, and that was weeks before it had head gasket failure (probably due to the air in the coolant being ignored).