Technical Panda revs dipping on warm-up

Currently reading:
Technical Panda revs dipping on warm-up

james2609

That escalated quickly...
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
994
Points
261
Location
East Tilbury, Essex
Hi all,

Have had this problem with my Panda for a short while and will investigate it this week.

On first start in the morning it runs smooth, but then as the idle drops on warm up, it starts to dip (video below) but never stalls. This does not affect the overall drive of the car, but is using a bit more fuel than normal. Once the car is up to temperature, it idles perfectly.

Every now and then, I get a flashing EML, but this is few and far between. I have since put in a new set of spark plugs and visually inspected the leads. There are no problems and no misfiring. I will put it on my laptop tonight and get the error codes. The EML never flashes on warm-up, only when I'm driving. No pattern to it.


This sort of idling, to me, suggests a lambda sensor fault. Anyone else have some ideas?

Thanks as always, (y)
 
Last edited:
My panda is exactly the same! I’ve got a 2004 1.2 8v (dynamic skydome). Having had the car 4 years now I have made a few observations related to this issue.

Firstly, it appears to be a problem typically around late February, March and April, presumably when the weather alternates between warmer periods and equally cold periods.

Also, this problem tends to arise when the car is warming up- around a quarter on the temperature gauge (just as you describe).

I’ve never had the EML on though.

I’ve had the lambda sensors replaced when I bought the car, because being low mileage at the time, the engine most probably never really got up to temperature. Back then I had idling issues and the EML on. Since then all has been well apart from these little “episodes” of playing up.

The only way I’ve found to resolve this was to use the Fiatecuscan software (now Multiecuscan) and carry out a self-adaption rest. This would resolve the problem for around 2 weeks, when it would ether come back if the weather was still the same, or if conditions had improved it would clear up and be fine till the following year.

It is a very peculiar issue, but in my experience hasn’t caused any significant issues (although the car can be a little jerky when warming up, especially in traffic, it likes to kangaroo).

The first staring point would be to check for error codes (if there are any) and then check sensors (but in my case I couldn’t find any obvious culprits).

Hope you find a solution to this weird issue.
 
My panda is exactly the same! I’ve got a 2004 1.2 8v (dynamic skydome). Having had the car 4 years now I have made a few observations related to this issue.....

Nice to know I'm not the only one with exactly the same issue, and a skydome owner too!

Will let you know how I get on. (y) Might be that nothing can be done. Went through an MOT like this too. My previous panda, the 54 plate one didn't do this at all. The only difference I've noticed under the bonnet is the ECU, so could well be software related.

My ECU is the small one.
 

Attachments

  • imagesCA1LVYEI.jpg
    imagesCA1LVYEI.jpg
    5.9 KB · Views: 27
  • untitled.jpg
    untitled.jpg
    29.2 KB · Views: 35
Last edited:
and a skydome owner too!

The only difference I've noticed under the bonnet is the ECU, so could well be software related.

Just realised my car is exactly the same as yours ;) (colour and everything!). I too have noticed the only difference with older panda's is the ECU (looks exactly the same a punto MK2 one!) whereas, slightly newer models have a diffident design.
 
Just a quick update on this. I have put in a couple of tanks of super unleaded and the idle is much less bouncy! Can't find my diagnostic cable as yet so I can't get any fault codes. Also, EML has not flashed at all since I used the more expensive juice.
 
Back running on normal unleaded now and the unsteady idle is back. Tried actuating the lambdas, still no change.

I got the following stored error codes:
P0300 & P0302.

The car is coming up 10 years old, I'm suspecting a coil pack maybe on it's way out. I'll be purchasing new coil packs and leads, will see if this makes any difference. :)

Any other thoughts as to why mine (and @AAB1992 's) car is doing this?(y)
 
Mixture of places, Tesco, BP, Morrisons, wherever I need fuel really. The first super unleaded I got was Tesco Momentum, 99RON. And even after a tank on this, car idled much better on warm up.

There's your problem, supermarket fuel. I never use it. Can always tell when dad has filled at Tesco. Stick to those that sell fuels for a living, Shell, BP, Esso etc. Should make a difference.
 
There's your problem, supermarket fuel. I never use it. Can always tell when dad has filled at Tesco. Stick to those that sell fuels for a living, Shell, BP, Esso etc. Should make a difference.
I don't think the fuel is the problem, otherwise there would be many more complaints from others. My other Panda 1.2 used all the same fuel stations and didn't have this problem.

I know Shell, BP etc are better quality fuels, but like most, it's the cost of the fuel that I think I about :)
 
Back running on normal unleaded now and the unsteady idle is back. Tried actuating the lambdas, still no change.

I got the following stored error codes:
P0300 & P0302.

The car is coming up 10 years old, I'm suspecting a coil pack maybe on it's way out. I'll be purchasing new coil packs and leads, will see if this makes any difference. :)

Any other thoughts as to why mine (and @AAB1992 's) car is doing this?(y)

The fault codes suggest a cylinder misfire (Cylinder 2 also random/multiple cylinder misfires). Something must be causing this to happen. It must be said, I've never had any fault codes related to this and putting in different fuels makes little difference. For me it seems to be weather related, and once the weather warms up and I reset the ECU the car is back to normal. It looks like you need to investigate the source of the misfire problem. It could be dirty fuel, but its also worth just resetting the ECU and seeing if the problem comes back.
 
Have you reset the ECU :confused:

If used to using the better fuel it might be why it's having an issue?

It could be dirty fuel, but its also worth just resetting the ECU and seeing if the problem comes back.

Sorry, I forgot to mention I did reset the ECU when I switched from super back to regular.

I'll fit new coil packs and leads and see where it goes from there. (y)
 
Hi guys, I've not been on for a while and when I was last on, I was asking about fitting a rev counter to my 1.1 Active Eco.
The reason for wanting one then was that I would quite often forget to change up as the motor is so damn quiet and I would be wizzing along on the motorway in 4th when I could have been in top and saving fuel.
This year I decided to take it drag racing and not wanting to hurt the motor, my thoughts once again turned to finding a rev counter.
If I take the motor to 20mph in first and then 50mph in second, what revs would I be doing ?
I fitted an electronic tach from one of my bikes and I'm guessing it is picking up a waisted spark as it is reading 8,000rpm at these speeds.
Tick over from cold is at 2,000rpm dropping to around 1,500rpm when warmed up and YES, mine has your problem of fluctuating until it warms up fully.:(

Sam.:)
 
Hi guys, I've not been on for a while and when I was last on, I was asking about fitting a rev counter to my 1.1 Active Eco.
The reason for wanting one then was that I would quite often forget to change up as the motor is so damn quiet and I would be wizzing along on the motorway in 4th when I could have been in top and saving fuel.
This year I decided to take it drag racing and not wanting to hurt the motor, my thoughts once again turned to finding a rev counter.
If I take the motor to 20mph in first and then 50mph in second, what revs would I be doing ?
I fitted an electronic tach from one of my bikes and I'm guessing it is picking up a waisted spark as it is reading 8,000rpm at these speeds.
Tick over from cold is at 2,000rpm dropping to around 1,500rpm when warmed up and YES, mine has your problem of fluctuating until it warms up fully.:(

Sam.:)

Never laughed so hard, drag racing in a 1.1. Drag racing but scared of damaging it and then bodging a Tacho in such a way it's not even reading correctly.

If you don't realise you're still in 4th on the motorway then perhaps you ought to look at getting an automatic :confused:
 
Hi guys, I've not been on for a while and when I was last on, I was asking about fitting a rev counter to my 1.1 Active Eco.
The reason for wanting one then was that I would quite often forget to change up as the motor is so damn quiet and I would be wizzing along on the motorway in 4th when I could have been in top and saving fuel.
This year I decided to take it drag racing and not wanting to hurt the motor, my thoughts once again turned to finding a rev counter.
If I take the motor to 20mph in first and then 50mph in second, what revs would I be doing ?
I fitted an electronic tach from one of my bikes and I'm guessing it is picking up a waisted spark as it is reading 8,000rpm at these speeds.
Tick over from cold is at 2,000rpm dropping to around 1,500rpm when warmed up and YES, mine has your problem of fluctuating until it warms up fully.:(

Sam.:)

This deserves its own thread ;)
Sam Green Racing try filling on tesco Momentum and see if after the second tank you have any improvement on the dipping revs, i did. You'll get an extra 0.2bhp for your racing too (y) but then, if you're drag racing a 1.1, (which is probably equivalent to a gentle pull off in a 100hp), why are you worried about the fluctuations? You should be more concerned about the tyres you're shredding in that 12,000rpm wheel spin! hehe! (y) just kidding mate, but admit that made me smile!

I will call Fiat tomorrow to see if there was ever a software upgrade for the ECU due to this problem. I can't think of anything else it could be.
 
Never laughed so hard, drag racing in a 1.1. Drag racing but scared of damaging it and then bodging a Tacho in such a way it's not even reading correctly.

If you don't realise you're still in 4th on the motorway then perhaps you ought to look at getting an automatic :confused:

From previous conversations, I expected better from you.
It's plain to see that you know nothing about drag racing or you would know that in the Sportsman ET classes, having a slow vehicle is a big advantage.
THE TACH, the tach is not bodged, It's a very expensive instrument that is probably picking up a wasted spark, it makes no difference if it is showing 8,000 instead of 4,000rpm as long as I have an idea of why it is showing it (the reason for the post).
Forgetting what gear you're in/not being able to hear the motor, I hope when you reach the age where you need a doctors certificate to renew your driving licence that you can remember who your doctor is and when he speaks to you in a soft voice, for gods sake don't say pardon or excuse me, you just failed.
Please don't reply to any more of my posts, I don't take kindly to having the the pi$$ taken.

Sam :life: get one.
 
This deserves its own thread ;)
Sam Green Racing try filling on tesco Momentum and see if after the second tank you have any improvement on the dipping revs, i did. You'll get an extra 0.2bhp for your racing too (y) but then, if you're drag racing a 1.1, (which is probably equivalent to a gentle pull off in a 100hp), why are you worried about the fluctuations? You should be more concerned about the tyres you're shredding in that 12,000rpm wheel spin! hehe! (y) just kidding mate, but admit that made me smile!

I will call Fiat tomorrow to see if there was ever a software upgrade for the ECU due to this problem. I can't think of anything else it could be.

Thanks James, I'm not worried about the fluctuation, it's probably caused by a critical temperature point where the ECU can't differentiate between what's warm and cold. It's 01.30 am at the moment and I still have the windows open. We might be just on the change over between winter and summer.
It might not happen in the morning. In the old days, there was a flap on the air intake that you could close for winter running :D
When you think about all the technology that goes into modern engines, think about some of the tricks that the F1 and Moto GP people get up to when the weather changes, It's easier to put Duct tape over the coolers than reconfigure what the EMS is seeing.
In respect of the higher grade fuels, I've put the Panda on the dyno and there was no difference between fuels at the same ING.
In the class that I race in, finding that extra bit of power means nothing, consistency is the name of the game.
My biggest problem at the moment is getting used to launching the Panda with the manual clutch (I'm used to a fully automatic drag bike)
If I had bought what our learned friend suggested (an automatic Panda) I would have been making money hand over fist.(y)
With an automatic, I would put my money on the table against anything.:D

Regards Sam.:)
 
It's plain to see that you know nothing about drag racing or you would know that in the Sportsman ET classes, having a slow vehicle is a big advantage.

Correct and agreed, I haven't my knowledge about it tbh, other than what is protrayed in films etc.

THE TACH, the tach is not bodged, It's a very expensive instrument that is probably picking up a wasted spark, it makes no difference if it is showing 8,000 instead of 4,000rpm as long as I have an idea of why it is showing it (the reason for the post).

You've admitted its been incorrectly installed and as a result isn't reading correctly, anything which isn't correctly installed is a bodge imo.


Forgetting what gear you're in/not being able to hear the motor, I hope when you reach the age where you need a doctors certificate to renew your driving licence that you can remember who your doctor is and when he speaks to you in a soft voice, for gods sake don't say pardon or excuse me, you just failed.

At that age I'd be knowing I shouldn't be driving if that is occouring ;)

Please don't reply to any more of my posts, I don't take kindly to having the the pi$$ taken.

Feel free to add me to your blocked list (y)
 
Back
Top