General Water in Footwell and wet feet!

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General Water in Footwell and wet feet!

there should be a black plastic "duck-bill" on the bottom of the water-filled "scuttle" hopper, (one either side of car)
if you squeeze the wider sides - it should release the leaves sat in the bottom, and the water thats trapped above ..!!

common issue on many cars,
if you give them a clean out every few months you shouldn't have an issue,
it will also make your demisting a lot more efficient - as you're not blowing damp air over the screen,
Charlie

Can I ask what the purpose of the duckbill is? I've read elsewhere that duckbills stop engine fumes entering the cabin. I've removed my duckbills as they popped out when I was trying to clear them.
 
Can I ask what the purpose of the duckbill is? I've read elsewhere that duckbills stop engine fumes entering the cabin. I've removed my duckbills as they popped out when I was trying to clear them.

Hi, and welcome to FF,:)

easy drain point is the #1 purpose,

however there could be an element of sealing / filtration of air..
I believe my 2004 has NO cabin / pollen filter,

Charlie - Oxford
 
Reading this motivated me to remove the scuttle panel today and clean the area underneath it including the plastic funnels.

A handful of dirt/soil came out.

Annoyingly, I wasn't sure if I had fitted all the plastic clips below the windscreen correctly and upon the 3rd removal I snapped two of them :mad:.

It still seems to fit fine though.
 
Hi all! :)

I have read this post with interest as I have the same problem on my recently purchased 2013 Panda 4x4.

Can anyone enlighten me as to where the drain holes are on the scuttle? The bulkhead seems to be sealed in and I can't see the rubber pipes mentioned in previous replies :(

I hope I don't have to remove the scuttle :eek:
 
The other contributers here have been very helpful with advice about cleaning the "duck's bill" drain tubes.

A related problem is that the leaf and dirt that gets into the scuttle area turns to compost and is difficult to remove - the gaps in the scuttle are too small to get the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner into them. If the "compost" is not removed it quickly chokes the drain tubes again

You can get an attachment for a standard vacuum cleaner hose that consists of a very thin and flexible flat tube that is small enough to get into the scuttle from the top of the engine bay.

I got mine in Lidl but Lidl don't keep hardware stuff on sale all the time. Something very similar is available on ebay - do a search for Universal-32mm-Vacuum-Cleaner-Long-Flat-Nozzle-Suction-Flexible-Tube-Home-Tool.

It worked great for clearing the "compost" without having to dismantle anything
 
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Thanks for the tip everyone!

I have attached 3 images of the engine bay of my 2013 Panda 4x4. The issue I am having is access. It would appear from the images of the 2004-2012 Panda that the drain pipes are easy to see and clear but not on mine!
I am hoping someone can shed some light on the drain's location or am I better taking the scuttle off completely? (Hope not! :confused:)

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This didn't happen on my old Panda MJ until just before she was P/X'd for a later model at 12 years old. This may have been down to one of two reasons.

i) We don't have that many trees near where we live.

ii) Every time I checked under the bonnet I cleared out any organic matter lying around at the base of the wipers. It didn't avoid the problem completely, but 12 years without this happening ain't bad.

Despite the advances in vehicle technology in the 44 years since I passed my test (hang on, did I just say 44 years?) I can never totally shift the idea that all cars are just a huge money pit that you stand on the edge of virtually all the time you have the thing.

With that in mind, there are certain things you can do to offset some of the future costs.

With most cars having electric power steering, these can sometimes suffer with problems derived from excessive use of full lock; something that is often used in urban areas. So avoiding this can help. This first came to light in the Vauxhall Corsa in the early nineties.

Also, when you park, at least for more than a few minutes, try and centre the steering rather than leave some lock applied. This helps when it comes to the life of tyres, steering arms and ball joints. Not driving off immediately from a cold start; a wait of 30-60 seconds or so ought to do it.

In winter, leaving it a few minutes (safety notwithstanding) before you turn on loads of electrics could help with battery life. A good one isn't entirely cheap. As above, waiting a minute or so before turning on lights and then HRW can help the battery recover slightly from a cold start, especially with diesels.

In winter we're quite keen to wash off all the salt on the bodywork, but let's not forget the underside which is perhaps even more important.
 
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