Just had my first EGR replacement after 72000 miles which I thought was good going, they also cleaned out the inlet pipe which was blocked solid. However, only had the car back from dealers a week and the occassional poor idle and reluctance to pick up has returned. I put my generic scanner tool on and it shows P0403 EGR Flow Circuit Malfunction.

Any ideas what this might be?

I know I will probably have to return car to the dealer but they are a bit of a trek away and it's very inconvenient.

make sure nothing has come loose.

Cheers done that already, everything appears connected properly. Looking at the invoice it looks like they have fitted a reconditioned egr, though the metal body looks brand new so wonder if it is the solenoid which is recon. I wonder if this has failed or something?

I try to avoid going to Fiat dealers if I can help it for the very reason I am often left feeling dissappointed in them!

Hi there if remove the maf sensor on the inlet (4 inches from egr valve it has a spline drive bolt) have a look inside the sensor and see if its coked up , 9 times out of ten this is the problem and also stops dpf regenerating. Clean out with carb cleaner and scrape dirt out gently with a cable tie you should be able to see down the hole but don`t snap the temp probe off be careful then re-fit and try.

This usally keeps bringing up egr faults because its measuring the air flow and teparature of the manifold, its worth a go it will take you 10 mins.

let me know how you get on.

cheers chris

Hi Chris, thanks for that but think we may be talking about different cars as mines doesn't have a dpf nor is the maf close to the egr. I have replaced the maf prior to have egr replaced!

I am wondering if there is something completely diferent wronf with my car. Originally it had what I would call classic egr fault of sticking valve with poor pick up and drop in economy. However, when egr was replaced egr solenoid was ok but valve and pipe to inlet manifold were completely blocked. Now new egr and pipe have been replaced car has intermittent feeling of holding back on pick up but only when temp has reached normal. No problems with higher revs and pull strongly though rev range, but sometimes feels dead then springs to life?

Thought I'd share my experience if it's of any use.
Just done similar work on mine. Following £84 charge for diagnosis, garage wanted £480 just to strip to diagnose further after error codes P0238 Air supply circuit anomally, P0400 EGR valve check and P1102 Air flow meter signal. I decided to look at it myself - New EGR fitted ( e-bay) - though I don't think it was necessary except one socket screw sheared when trying to remove EGR body from heat exchanger. Intake manifold was very 'gunged up' and I cleaned this and MAP sensor and all pipework from and to intercooler. I also found that plastic pipe from air filter to turbo was broken where crankcase breather pipe enters it, which I think they did when they changed MAF sensor last year, in third year warranty, when I reported car was running poorly. Since then it has got worse so i took it for the diagnosis. Should have bought a EOBD reader!
Anyway, also found, like others,that there was oil in pipe work from turbo to intercooler and to inlet manifold. I was worried that turbo seals might have gone, but decided to put it back together, with new pipe and gaskets, as turbo can be changed without having to remove so many ancillaries and drain coolant. At the moment it is back to full performance, although, after 200 miles, there's a film of oil in pipe from turbo to intercooler - it would be nice to know fiat's view on how much oil mist gets from crankcase ventilation normally.

Passed smoke test in MOT -0.52/m, few days ago, so can't be too bad.

Seems that new turbo can be had for less than £250, plus a few pipes and gaskets needed to do the job.

My son has my old corsa with this engine, which after 75000 miles is very smoky at low revs, so may give it a similar 'birthday treat' at some time in the future.

Had similar problems on MJ, easy fix was to unplug MAF electrical connector, drive car and the emissions will not be correctly calculated causing dashlamp to come on. If it drives better with the connector off it is one of two things, MAF sensor, or as in my case just dirty contacts - just a gently clean and hey presto it was sorted. Re-start car 4 times lamp on dash extinguished and problem solved. And yes I did replace the MAF before finding this out.