Quite surprised that there's no "how to" on changing the front pads. I've searched and found lots of "it's easy" comments, but not a single "that's the way to do it". So,,,,is it remove the "R" clip, knock out the pin and swing the caliper away, strip out the old and in with the new, shlop some brake grease about and refit? Or are there caveats? Does the piston need pushing back and if so, how. Any need to release brake fluid? Any help appreciated ta.
And no, I don't need new discs, and yes, I do know where not to put grease - just got a slightly binding brake so thought to bung in new pads at the same time.

I've not got around to mine yet, but

Does this help
http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...INT_MODE=0&EPER_CAT=SP&WINDOW_ID=1&GUI_LANG=3

and this

http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...INT_MODE=0&EPER_CAT=SP&WINDOW_ID=0&GUI_LANG=3

Looks like you undo a couple of screws (9) and pull the piston part of the caliper out from the carrier. You'll need to drag it passed the rusty disc edge.

It it's binding, clean them off with brake cleaner and make sure they float on the carrier freely (the pins, longer of the B's may need cleaning and copper slipping up) when back together.

You can lever the (clean, you don't want to force sh*t up in the seal) piston back gently with a bar, make sure the tops off the ressie and it's not going to overflow, take some out if needed, a syringe is handy.

Some say clamp the pipe and open the bleed nipple when you push the piston back as it may flip one of the seals, but if done slowly and gently it'll be ok.

Pads usually come with new bolts (9) if not reuse the ones you have, a blob of threadlock on the threads will stop them rattling lose.

Not really, I need somebody who knows. I sat and looked at the thing this morning after taking the wheel off and I don't want to start unbolting things when there's no need. I've not seen this type of caliper before so don't want to fly blind, but think the bridge section ought to lift up and away, pivoting on one of those "9" bolts, hence my asking if it's just a case of removing the pin first.

if in doubt get someone qualified to do it...........it's one of the important bits on a car

panda4x4x4 toally agree for the sake of a few quid ."If in doubt leave it out" Its safer if your not sure ..dont even try it if your not sure....

panda4x4x4x4 said:

if in doubt get someone qualified to do it...........it's one of the important bits on a car

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Brakes are not as difficult as everyone seems to think. If not for the fact that I don't have a driveway or garage I'd happily do a pad and disc change on either of our cars. That said I've not really done anything with the hydraulic part of the system so I wouldn't touch that as IMHO it's the bit that you're going to have the most difficulty with.

The reason i keep telling people not to modify or take on certain jobs on their cars is ive been a certified motor engineer for over 30years and ive seen quite a few bad/dangerous jobs that have been done by people who are not qualified (including a few garages)who have employed non skilled people.Ive also written reports for accidents for courts and insurance problems (modifiying cars).And its always those that know better than professional engineers.Take it from me when a accident happens and people get hurt everything is logged by the police (tyres size/details any modifcations even things like spoilers/transferes?)And its those things that insurance companies jump on (also unqualified brake repairs/service"pads"etc)So be careful. "IN IN DOUBT LEAVE IT OUT" .This really is good advice. (a lot of insurance companies ask for service details/who has serviced the car).

The image below sent by a customer who had purchased EBC Brake pads and BELIEVED he was also buying genuine EBC Brake rotors.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/cross_drilled_rotors/dangerous_cross_drilled_rotors.shtml

You just need to remove the top bolt (9) in the diagram, the piston part of the caliper will pivot down.

If you look at this pic of a caliper
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FIAT-PANDA-MK2-1-2-8V-1-1-8V-FRONT-CALIPER-/350147139077?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5186655605

You can see the pin it pivots on to the right of the pic.

The bolt to the left (it's facing away from the camera) is the top bolt (9).

This bolt (9) will be fitted in a pin that needs cleaning and copper greasing along with the pin to the left (that the caliper pivots on) as the piston part of the caliper (the bridge as you call it) needs be able to pull it's self back evenly as the pads wear down to adjust it's self.

(there is only one piston in the caliper, as this piston pushes one pad against the disc, it needs to pull the other back towards it via the caliper body, thus it needs to "float" on the caliper carrier as the brake pads and disc become thinner, it needs to move along the carrier)

If one end or the other of this bridge is dirty, dusty, rusty and full of road of salt, and it fails to adjust (pull it's self back evenly as the pads wear) it'll jam up and always hold one of the pads against the disc causing the brake to bind.

If you are fitting new pads, you'll need to push the piston back all the way.

Bri said:

The reason i keep telling people not to modify or take on certain jobs on their cars is ive been a certified motor engineer for over 30years and ive seen quite a few bad/dangerous jobs that have been done by people who are not qualified (including a few garages)who have employed non skilled people.Ive also written reports for accidents for courts and insurance problems (modifiying cars).And its always those that know better than professional engineers.Take it from me when a accident happens and people get hurt everything is logged by the police (tyres size/details any modifcations even things like spoilers/transferes?)And its those things that insurance companies jump on (also unqualified brake repairs/service"pads"etc)So be careful. "IN IN DOUBT LEAVE IT OUT" .This really is good advice. (a lot of insurance companies ask for service details/who has serviced the car).

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As usual you're not really right.

Sure if you do a brake pad/disc change wrong then of course you shouldn't be covered. But if you've done the job right then they can't do anything, there's no law against doing work on your car.

This is just like when you falsely tried to claim that people would have to pay an excess when fitting winter tyres and therefore making their cars safer. If you no idea about how to fit pads or discs then it's something best not attempted solo the first time, but if you're a competent DIY mechanic changing pads and discs is pretty easy.

panda4x4x4x4 said:

if in doubt get someone qualified to do it...........it's one of the important bits on a car

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What like a shaved chimp in a kwik fit boiler suit?
If they can manage a pad change, anything with an opposable thumb can do it.

I've had a car back off them with no pads in the calipers at all!
"the lad must have forgot" was their answer.

Goudrons said:

What like a shaved chimp in a kwik fit boiler suit?
If they can manage a pad change, anything with an opposable thumb can do it.

I've had a car back off them with no pads in the calipers at all!
"the lad must have forgot" was their answer.

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Yeah but at least when you crashed and died you'd have been able to sue them!

You should get your facts right i said that if you fit winter tyres you should notify your insurance company because it could invalidate your insurance or the insurance premium would cost more. "This is from the AAs website"(The AA has nevertheless heard reports of some insurers increasing premiums or remarkably even refusing cover if winter tyres are fitted. As a result we recommend talking to your insurer if you are considering fitting winter tyres. )These also recomend you talk to your insurance.please dont lead people on the forum into making silly mistakes.

Even one of the forum insurers, Chris Knott, said that they needed to be notifed if you put on winter tyres - each company they dealt with had their own rules over it.

Spring is here

Stu Demon well said,people should be careful who they listen to and always notify their insurance of any mods etc no matter how small.the way insurance is going it wont be long before they start to refuse these mods completely or invalidate the policy for any minor details? you really have to be careful

One important thing to remember is that you are legally obliged to inform insurers of any modifications that you do. This is vitally important as failing to declare them can potentially invalidate your entire insurance policy. This would mean in the event of you making a claim, and the insurers discovering an undisclosed modification to your car, you could be left high and dry with a null and void policy. The modification disclosure rule is normally found in the terms and conditions of a policy, with the onus very much on the policyholder having to inform the insurer, and not the other way round like many seem to believe,This includes tinted window mod,And those led lights.

Stu DemonD said:

Even one of the forum insurers, Chris Knott, said that they needed to be notifed if you put on winter tyres - each company they dealt with had their own rules over it.

Spring is here

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The thing is that the law says otherwise

The insurance is given to you on the basis that your car conforms to the homologated specifications. That's why for instance the Abarth 500 and Abarth 500 SS are the same to insure even though the SS pack adds some horsies. This is because the SS kit is part of the homologated specification of the Abarth 500 regardless of whether it's fitted.

Whether an insurance company wants you to notify them or not is besides the point when you're satisfying your legal obligation to them. They can ask you to stand with your left foot in a banoffee pie and your right foot in a bakewell tart each time you call them and threaten to invalidate your insurance if you don't, but it won't hold up in court For the record I fitted alloys to the wifes to the wifes car which are an inch wider than standard and I notified the insurance company because nowhere in the handbook does it mention 7" wide rims. I'm happy to notify my insurance company when I modify my car in such a way that it ceases to conform to the homologated specifications but winter tyres are part of the spec and to get back on topic, properly fitted brake pads are part of the spec regardless of whether a shaved Kwik Fit chimp has fitted them PROPERLY or whether a DIY mechanic has fitted them PROPERLY.

P.S Spring is here and my summer tyres are on

Yet a quick phonecall to clarify - or a long drawn out battle if you happened to be involved in a claim.

I will go with what my insurance broker advises, especially if they need to clarify it with a particular insurance company. If you don't want to do that, then fine

Oi, who stole my thread?
Bolt "9", as we've decided to call it - caliper retaining bolt anyone? - does anybody know what size caphead/allen fitting it might be?

I did call just to clarify actually, more in the hope that I could have a fight if I'm honest but when I said that it was in the handbook he said it was fine and we didn't even need to let them know

sorry pandablues, just didn't want bri turning people off doing basic and easy maintenance

Pandablues said:

Oi, who stole my thread?
Bolt "9", as we've decided to call it - caliper retaining bolt anyone? - does anybody know what size caphead/allen fitting it might be?

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No.
Is it an allen or one of the torq headed feckers?

I'd say it'd be on the biggish side, 6 to 8mm.
I can check when it's light.

How's this turned into a insurance brawl??