Technical How to change front pads??
- Thread starter Pandablues
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Technical How to change front pads??
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I have to admit, there's very little technical info on here.
I've recently rebuild the whole of my Jags suspension, front and back with just the info gleened from www.jaguarforum.co.uk
There was even links to download Jags TIS, Electronic parts list, handbooks, service guides and so on.
Maybe it's time to do some write ups of regular jobs.
I've recently rebuild the whole of my Jags suspension, front and back with just the info gleened from www.jaguarforum.co.uk
There was even links to download Jags TIS, Electronic parts list, handbooks, service guides and so on.
Maybe it's time to do some write ups of regular jobs.
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There is a download section here:
https://www.fiatforum.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=14
Also, ePER is at the top of the forum.
But any guides will be great and much appreciated
David Bliss
Member
Some of the answers to this question are completely wrong. I posted a reply to someone who had tackled the same job in completely the wrong way, causing damage to the rubber boots. He had more expense to put things right, and brakes are not something to take lightly, lives can depend on them! Many people replace brake pads without realising that the discs are also in poor condition, if they are worn down to 1mm below the original thickness they need replacing (I have a ventilated brake disc off someones vehicle which shattered into several pieces, a solid disc is less likely to brake up quite so badly). Instructions using photos showing what to look for and what to do might be a good idea, but if in doubt ask someone qualified to show you, don't rely on just anything you are told.
Bri
Member
Its only easy maintainance if you know how to do it.(always seek professional help)
Care to actually help people rather than do this whole holier than thou thing and not help?
I agree that people shouldn't take things lightly, but pads and discs are easy to do especially if like you say there's a guide with photos and everything.
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Seeing as though I seem to be the only one to answer the posters questions, that'll make my answers completely wrong?
Would you mind explaining to the poster what was "completely wrong"?
I'm sure that would help the poster no end (that's way he and we are here), as they have asked for help, it seems a bit silly to imply that's all wrong, I know how to do it, but I'm not telling, which seems to be the gist of your reply, even hinting that you've helped others in the past, but I'll not help you?
Seems kind of mean that, but maybe that's why you have no "thanks" from any other forum users.
On another thought regarding anyone asking for technical advice.
That's what it is, advice, it up to those that ask or read it to make their own mind up what to do with the info offered.
It is right?
Can I do it?
That's down to them, it's all very well saying leave to someone else, but how does anyone learn to do these things in the first place?
Pretty soon, they'll be only one very old man left with the knowledge of how to replace brake pads, good god, what will his rates be??
I wouldn't offer it if I thought that they had no clue, but the poster, from what I read had some basic knowledge of the braking system, but was just unsure of the method, ie what bolt to undo.
They also mentioned the brakes binding, this, I offered my opinion on, after our lovely winter, the brakes are dirty and need freeing from the caliper carrier.
There are other reasons for this, but involve a cost, Keep it simple, try what's free first!
Someone has brought up thinning and possible cracked discs, that's all very well, but if you actually take the time to read the post, they state "And no, I don't need new discs" so I assume replying in regards to worn discs would be a compete and utter waste of time and effort. They have stated that these are OK, how they've come to think that is down to them.
As I stated before, it's time we (before any of us turn into that old man) Get out there, recording and posting how to do these sort of jobs.
OP
OP
Pandablues
Member
OK, here we go, I was once, in another life, a garage fitter. NOT a mechanic, no good asking me what's wrong and expecting a coherent or useful response, but say you wanted your alternator changing and off I'd go and do it, no bother. A spanner swinger if you will. I've not worked on a car, other than to change air filters and plugs, for some 15 years or more due to health issues and working in a different industry. I've not never worked on this style of caliper though, but two quotes of around £60 + VAT make me think that, on a pleasantly sunny day as it was both yesterday and today, it could still be well be within my (limited) capabilities and even smaller toolkit. Too much information, but just to indicate that, yes, I do know what I'm doing, sort of, just not which bit to do it to first.
Relax guys, it's not like I'm whipping out the clutch plates, changing the gear box and diff' and then nipping off to work without refilling the rear axle like I did last time........oooer
Relax guys, it's not like I'm whipping out the clutch plates, changing the gear box and diff' and then nipping off to work without refilling the rear axle like I did last time........oooer
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You'll be ok, get that top bolt out and wriggle the "bridge" part out.
The pads will be inside the "bridge" part, held in with shims, probably!
Take your time and remember how it goes back together (do one side at a time, the other will give you a referance)
As you did mention that the brake/s bind, I was keen to point out that,
A, the parts that the caplier move on are cleaned and free and if needed copper greased, you will see how it moves and grips the disc.
B, the piston is clean, before you push it back in the seal.
You can use brake cleaner, wire brush and a freeing agent like WD40, but clean the excess off (sh*t will stick to it)
Use a bar in the caliper to gently push the piston back having first opened the ressie cap and made sure when the fluid runs back, it won't overflow. Don't open the bleed nipple.
When it's back together on the disc, just give the disc a spin and have someone press the brake pedal, it'll need a pump first (don't do this without the pads in and it on the disc) make sure it's working.
New pads can make the pedal feel like there is less bite to start with, pads need to bed in and take the shape of the disc surface, go easy on the brakes for 100 miles or so.
As for the rest. I was a little dessip off that people come along, saying "you're wrong" and give no reason or help!
If I'm giving bad advice, at least tell me and the one asking for it the right advice!
The pads will be inside the "bridge" part, held in with shims, probably!
Take your time and remember how it goes back together (do one side at a time, the other will give you a referance)
As you did mention that the brake/s bind, I was keen to point out that,
A, the parts that the caplier move on are cleaned and free and if needed copper greased, you will see how it moves and grips the disc.
B, the piston is clean, before you push it back in the seal.
You can use brake cleaner, wire brush and a freeing agent like WD40, but clean the excess off (sh*t will stick to it)
Use a bar in the caliper to gently push the piston back having first opened the ressie cap and made sure when the fluid runs back, it won't overflow. Don't open the bleed nipple.
When it's back together on the disc, just give the disc a spin and have someone press the brake pedal, it'll need a pump first (don't do this without the pads in and it on the disc) make sure it's working.
New pads can make the pedal feel like there is less bite to start with, pads need to bed in and take the shape of the disc surface, go easy on the brakes for 100 miles or so.
As for the rest. I was a little dessip off that people come along, saying "you're wrong" and give no reason or help!
If I'm giving bad advice, at least tell me and the one asking for it the right advice!
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Very simple job if you have a little common sense.
Remove a couple of small retaining clips, gently drive out the lower retaining pin from the inner side of the caliper . Ease the pistons ALL the way back into the caliper taking care not to damage the rubber seals/covers. The fluid does not need to be bled off unless someone has topped it up not realising the level in the reservoir is meant to drop as the pads wear (The level will rise back to the full mark when the pistons are seated back in the caliper).
The caliper will then pivot upwards allowing removal of the old pads and for cleaning. Refit in reverse.
I am having my car serviced today to keep the warranty valid, this will give me chance to check on what i have posted. But i am sure no allen keys etc are needed..Well they wernt fitted to my Panda.
If in doubt dont do it, the most dangerous part of this task is making sure the car is safely supported before removing the wheel.
Remove a couple of small retaining clips, gently drive out the lower retaining pin from the inner side of the caliper . Ease the pistons ALL the way back into the caliper taking care not to damage the rubber seals/covers. The fluid does not need to be bled off unless someone has topped it up not realising the level in the reservoir is meant to drop as the pads wear (The level will rise back to the full mark when the pistons are seated back in the caliper).
The caliper will then pivot upwards allowing removal of the old pads and for cleaning. Refit in reverse.
I am having my car serviced today to keep the warranty valid, this will give me chance to check on what i have posted. But i am sure no allen keys etc are needed..Well they wernt fitted to my Panda.
If in doubt dont do it, the most dangerous part of this task is making sure the car is safely supported before removing the wheel.
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From the punto forum, the same caliper.
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-gui...-fluid-renewal-rear-cylinder-replacement.html
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-gui...-fluid-renewal-rear-cylinder-replacement.html
OP
OP
Pandablues
Member
Aha! Tis as I suspected, pull the "R" clip!
Many thanks for the info and link - how odd it didn't make it to the Panda region.....
Now all I need is a tuit
Many thanks for the info and link - how odd it didn't make it to the Panda region.....
Now all I need is a tuit
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Now all I need is a tuit
I've got a round one if that's any use
OP
OP
Pandablues
Member
Oh....don't give it away, you should always hang on to the things, rarer then the proverbial they are. Perfect for those jobs you've been putting off until you can get a round tuit so they are
I've gotten good enough prices locally for pads (£18.32 a set including VAT) AND discs (£13.06 per), but they were struggling due to a non functioning card reader. Due to my blue blood I don't carry that much cash so it'll have to wait another few days before I start gathering the bits in.
I've gotten good enough prices locally for pads (£18.32 a set including VAT) AND discs (£13.06 per), but they were struggling due to a non functioning card reader. Due to my blue blood I don't carry that much cash so it'll have to wait another few days before I start gathering the bits in.
Any tips on how to release the pin on the caliper. Have removed the r clip but the pin is sold even with some WD-40 and a wack with a hammer. I have been having a binding issue so want to have a look - the pads were kwik-fit fitted (I know, I know) as were the discs so I intend to give the lot a bloody good clean and replace the pads as well as the binding is much worse on the drivers side so the pads are bound to be uneven. It was bad enough to make the wheel trim too hot to touch on a 30 mile drive the other day!
Would adding some heat to the oin help with its release?
Would adding some heat to the oin help with its release?
Got it sorted. Ended up using a combination of wheel cleaner (to break down the copious break dust), a wire brush, penetraing fluid, and a lighter! Came out with a couple of swift taps!
Was really good of the idiots at kwik fit to put no grease at all on anything. No wonder the breaks where binding and squeaking - I had to use a hammer to get the pads out as they were absolutely solid. Drivers side pads had turned white (I assume due to the heat) and very badly glazed, but all is good now and the discs were fine.
New mintex pads in, loads of copper grease on anything that moves, and the car is stopping better than ever with no squeaks at all!
Just shows if you want it done right do it yerself!
Some punches are very helpful for punching the pin throughGot it sorted. Ended up using a combination of wheel cleaner (to break down the copious break dust), a wire brush, penetraing fluid, and a lighter! Came out with a couple of swift taps!
Was really good of the idiots at kwik fit to put no grease at all on anything. No wonder the breaks where binding and squeaking - I had to use a hammer to get the pads out as they were absolutely solid. Drivers side pads had turned white (I assume due to the heat) and very badly glazed, but all is good now and the discs were fine.
New mintex pads in, loads of copper grease on anything that moves, and the car is stopping better than ever with no squeaks at all!
Even that didnt work! Seriously. Was beginning to think KF had welded them on lolSome punches are very helpful for punching the pin through
Bit of penetrating fluid, a what to get them a little way through and a twist of the head of the pin with some pliers and they come out easy
