I want to fit a REMOTE control box to the existing key operated central locking on my Panda [2010].

Can anyone help with which wires I should tap into on the fuse panel - there's a great guide in the Punto forum and I wondered whether the colour codes are the same????

Thanks for any/all help

Hedgie said:

I want to fit a REMOTE control box to the existing key operated central locking on my Panda [2010].

Can anyone help with which wires I should tap into on the fuse panel - there's a great guide in the Punto forum and I wondered whether the colour codes are the same????

Thanks for any/all help

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This has been asked before, the entire system is canbus based and the general feeling is it is not worth the effort.

JD82 said:

This has been asked before, the entire system is canbus based and the general feeling is it is not worth the effort.

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I haven't read any previous threads about this, but just had a quick look at the wiring diagrams. It is not controlled by the CANBUS, it relies on simple triggers (switch to earth) for each door, with a master trigger on the driver's door. It's true that the operation is computerised or at least logic driven as is every electrical device on a modern FIAT, but it does not rely on the CAN network to work.

Pin 12 of connector H on the body computer, when earthed, locks all the doors.
Pin 13 of connector H on the body computer, when earthed, unlocks all the doors.

I suggest attaching the device to these wires. I also suggest cutting the wires, instead of splicing as the body computer is expecting one or other of the wires to be earthed, not both. Pin 12 is normally earthed, until the key is turned. It is not clear what will happen if they are both earthed. You will lose key-driven power locking, but I don't suppose you'll care.

Download the eLearn "CD" from the downloads section of this site to find out what connector and stuff I am talking about. All the answers are in there anyhow. Good luck.

JD82 said:

This has been asked before, the entire system is canbus based and the general feeling is it is not worth the effort.

Click to expand...

If you don't know for sure or at least for very certain, perhaps it's best to leave it to people like Lewey who have access to the right information

if they are both earthed i reckon it will just log an error, probably internal. depending on how the BC was developed if you cut the wires it might generate another error for open circuit.

Does the key mechanically turn the lock and operate the limit switches? or operate an independent microswitch?

if the key turns the lock you could use a remote operated plunger that locks or unlocks the drivers door, then all the others follow. I havent had a door apart (yet) so not sure if the unit is sealed or a dead locked but i should think there is some linkage showing.

Basically, the normal situation is to have one or other of the wires earthed. With the key having been turned from locked to unlocked, the "unlock" wire is then permanently earthed and the lock wire is open until the key is used to lock the door. I haven't provided a complete solution in my post, I am just showing the way to the solution. Obviously you would need to do experimentation with earthing the two leads and consider a circuit design that leaves one or other of the wires always earthed.

My electrics knowledge is basic, so I can only say what I would do which is use a latching relay, with the switched contacts being connecting to earth, having been triggered one way or the other by the eBay-special remote device.

I'm in the process of doing this with sisters Panda at the moment. As Lewey has said, relevant pin needs to be earthed for the system to lock or unlock.

The issue with retro fitting is that there isn't a motor in the drivers door lock system on those not fitted with RCL as standard, so just fitting a remote switching unit will unlock and lock all doors bar the drivers door.

As a result a lock mechanism from a car with RCL needs to be fitted. Then it'll need additional wiring added to the loom to power said lock unit.

Tbh not worth the hassle in most cases.

Good info MEP. So that is the missing piece in the puzzle. eLearn can sometimes ignore spec-levels when trying to explain systems. Seems it will explain the most complicated version and let you find out what you haven't got! How annoying that a new new lock required; FIAT want £65 for a remote lock and £56 for a non-remote one. £9 in it, but every little helps I suppose when you are trying to make the Active so ruddy cheap!

Its a pitty about the drivers door not having a locking motor, I was thinking of doing this conversion after fitting a kit off E-bay to my Toyota Estima last week. It now locks & unlocks like a charm.
Does anyone know if the wiring is there for the drivers door motor?
I'd be supprised if it is, i've just been working out how to make the Radio ignition wired & the spaces in the fuse box that don't have a fuse in haven't even got contacts!

gareth111278 said:

[
Does anyone know if the wiring is there for the drivers door motor?

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It doesn't and would need to be added.

Thanks Lewey and others for all these thoughts/ideas/suggestions. If it hadn't been for the need to change the lock barrel in the drivers door I'd have a go but as it is, I think I'll leave it alone. Shame cos I like fiddling with 'lectrics.

Hedgie

Hey guys,


Does all this hold true for a 2012 Panda Pop (Mk3)?


I assume it must be slightly different, as the driver's door lock does contain a central locking motor - the doors automatically lock when driving, including the driver's door...

Bannedbiker said:

Hey guys,


Does all this hold true for a 2012 Panda Pop (Mk3)?


I assume it must be slightly different, as the driver's door lock does contain a central locking motor - the doors automatically lock when driving, including the driver's door...

Click to expand...

Can you confirm your mk, mk3 didn't come in pop spec, I suspect you're on about mk4 (2012>), mk3 is 2003-2012.

The general feeling among the "trade" is:

Mk1 1980 - 2003 (yes they did keep making it that long, they just stopped selling it here in the UK around 1994)
This included two "facelifts"
First around 1986 (introduction of FIRE engines)
And another around 1991 (new grill and paint that didn't fall straight off with a mild breeze)
Some count this last update as a Mk2, but I believe Fiat never did (it meant changing all the printed paperwork!)

Mk2 2003 - 2012.
Late 2007 has a revision of trim to include darker plastics inside and red badges.
Sometime in 2009 they got the revised "ECO" engines.

Mk3 2012 - ?
March 2014 the 1.2's moved to Euro 6 spec engines.

Goudrons said:

The general feeling among the "trade" is:

Mk1 1980 - 2003 (yes they did keep making it that long, they just stopped selling it here in the UK around 1994)
This included two "facelifts"

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And this is where you're wrong. 1986 was not a face lift, it was a completly different car. Very little of the mk1 parts are compatible with a mk2. In fact the mk3 & mk4 probably share more parts in common!

The trade often refer to 'gen' or 'generation' which is different to mk.

There are 3 generations, first gen cover mk1&2, second gen mk3 and third gen (current) is mk4.

Sorry, not according to Fiat and their press releases when the current Panda was released.

The current one is their third generation.
http://www.fiatpress.com/press/detail/11327

Translated
https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fiatpress.com%2Fpress%2Fdetail%2F11327&edit-text=&act=url

A new Mk was not assigned for every revision no matter how big or small that revision was.
If Fiat did do that, we'd be up to around Mk 600 or beyond!

Goudrons said:

A new Mk was not assigned for every revision no matter how big or small that revision was.
If Fiat did do that, we'd be up to around Mk 600 or beyond!

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You're missing what I'm saying, 1986 wasn't just a mere 'revision'. Its a totally different car!

I don't care to much as to what Fiat are saying either TBH, as half the time they don't know whats right themself. Those in the know on here and elsewhere use the mks correctly, and I was merely advising someone so they don't start to get confused them self

Most Easterly Pandas said:

Can you confirm your mk, mk3 didn't come in pop spec, I suspect you're on about mk4 (2012>), mk3 is 2003-2012.

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I can't be certain of the Mk, however it is defiantly a '12 plate Panda Pop...

That'll be a mk4

Bannedbiker said:

I can't be certain of the Mk, however it is defiantly a '12 plate Panda Pop...

Click to expand...

Cool, so the current shape you can buy new still? I assume it is, being a pop.

If so then like you say, as you've a motor in the drivers door lock it should be a lot easier for you. You just need to find the feed in the wiring loom to the door for the lock and unlock signal