horn problems..

I had a problem with the horn on the CLX - it might amuse you a bit[:o)]

When driving, steering wheel within 20 or 30 degrees of straight ahead - horn OK - any further, and the horn doesn't work.

Easy - steering wheel off ( two little screws around the back if you have the 4 spoke wheel, before you can get the "push" out to undo the centre nut ), the "horn ring" on the back of the wheel is disintegrating.. so UKP 2.91 plus VAT later, all back together again.

The job's good.

As long as you don't have the key in the ignition turned "on"... WTF is happening?
The earth is lost from the column when you turn the key[xx(]

Nowhere in either Haynes or Porter diagrams does it show that the earth for the steering wheel "column" (that the wheel bolts to) is supplied through the ignition switch - no "Nero" wires drawn anywhere near it.

The switch is held on with bolts which have had the heads sheared off to prevent overcoming the steering lock.

So, I ended up bolting a good length of very flexible multicore to the bulkhead, and fastening the other end to the pinch bolt at the bottom of the column. There is enough slack for it to wind up to full lock in either direction.

I really couldn't see going to the grief/expense of a new lock barrel, and ending up with odd keys too.. but I expect to have to replace the wire periodically, due to metal fatigue.


Oh, yes. I lost the little plastic cover for the parking light button too, when I took the cowling and column switches off, thinking there might be wipers onto the column inside the switchgear.

Never a dull moment.

Hi there,

I have been suffering from the exact same problem this week.

I decided to change the steering wheel for a wooden one I came across - should be an easy job I thought - but afterwards the horn did not work if ignition was on. Definately an earthing fault.

Think I wil do the same as you, though I guess wire replacement will be a an issue from now on.

There must be a better (cheap) way?!?

Fix It Again Tony!