Well possibly will need to replace my clutch soon, its definately on its way out. Found a new 1 on ebay, but there isnt a haynes manual for the 4x4. I was wondering if any1 else on the forum might have an idea? In which case i may be picking brains for info when i come to doing the work!
Thought i start checkin now so i can get that done nice and easy when i get time.
Cheers
Si

Have you had a look at the porter one?

Come to think of it I don't think the 4x4 clutch is much different but then your's ain't FIRE engine'd so dear knows

Oh the joys, hehe!

Jim

yes that be the predicament! I think the 4x4 linkage has to be removed aswell, that would be common on all 4x4 models i would guess lol. I shall try lookin for porters, i have had a thought on some workshop manuals i have seen on ebay a few times, and i think they might even inc the 4x4 in those, even if for the fire, the box has gotta be pretty similar.

Cheers
Si

Clutch replacement in front wheel drive cars = lots and lots of work! If you're not confident about this sort of thing best get someone else to do it.

The gearbox is exactly the same as found in the MKII FIRE engined cars. To give you an idea of how much work is involved (in no particular order):

Disconnect the front section of the propshaft from the back of the gearbox. While you're under there loosen the rear gearbox mount and disconnect the gear selector levers and 4x4 selector lever. Oh yes, there's an electrical connection for the 4x4 light too. Disconnect that.
Remove the passenger side drive shaft. This will involve partly dismantling the front suspension on that side to give the hub enough room to swing clear of the shaft. Leave this undone, you'll need the room to move the gearbox too.
Remove the starter motor.
Undo the diff end of the drivers side drive shaft.
Disconnect both the speedo and cluch cables at the gearbox.
Completely remove the front mount on the gearbox.
Back underneath there is a small crud shield attached to the bottom of the bellhousing with 4 small bolts (I think it's 4 anyway). Take this off. The gearbox itself is held on with 4 large bolts. Undo these and withdraw them. By this time the gearbox should be held loosely by the rear mount and it's input shaft. Unhook the rear mount and slide the gearbox away from the engine. It's heavy so you'll need two people to manhandle it out of the engine bay so it's out of the way. Lots of oil will spill all over the place so make sure you have plenty of stuff under the car to catch it all.
The clutch friction plate is held on by about 5 bolts if I recall correctly and these require undoing a bit at at time each to ease the spring pressure. The thrust bearing should still be on the gearbox input shaft and is easy to remove. When fitting the new clutch you must centre the clutch plate as accurately as possible so that the input shaft passes through it and into the engine block nice and easily when you refit the gearbox.
Put the whole mess back together.
Easy!

Seriously though, it is a big task so make sure you have plenty of time, help on hand and all the right tools and parts before you start. I live near bridgend and may be available for consultation and advice but I have a bad back so I'm afraid I can't help with the heavy stuff. As I say, the alternative is to bite the bullet and hand the cash over to a garage. At least you'll have some sort of guarantee with the work too. If you get it wrong yourself you'll have to do it all again....

cheers for that, yeah should be ok wiv doing it, will have my dad by my side and he has changed many a clutch, admitadly not on mk 1 panda's, lol. Glad to hear that the procedure is similar to the mk 2.
Thanks again, i shall save that info and make my own manual! Soon i'll have every possible job written down for future generations of mk 1 panda owners.

Cheers
Si