Donz: No doubt you'll think of something. Try
www.yensen.co.uk and see what comes up ...
John H: Amazingly it wasn't such a bad job. Dropping the old gearbox was easy with an assistant supporting it with a trolley jack as suggested by both the Haynes and Porter manuals.
When it came to fitting the replacement my helper was nowhere to be seen. I didn't want the new clutch to get rusty so the 'box had to go on that day with or without an assistant. With the help of a length of scaffolding, two metal bars and lots of blue rope I managed to improvise a makeshift hoist so I could raise the 'box bit by bit until I could swing it over enough to engage the shaft and bolt it on.
Afterwards I returned the scaffolding to the building site I ... erm ... borrowed it from
and hope they don't notice the holes drilled in it at one end!
Fitting the clutch wasn't too bad either, using the drive shaft from the old gearbox as a clutch alighment tool, suggested by
fixitagaintomorrow I think. Thanks Pete. It worked perfectly.
When I get an opportunity I'll post pictures of exactly how badly damaged the old gearbox is!
Now to get my baby road legal. I've freed off the calipers so that is no longer a problem. A friend of mine owes me a favour so he'll give the discs a very light skim to remove the rust, as they are still thick enough for further service.
The damaged balljoint rubber boots on the off-side were the result of a clumsy attempt to split them using a fork type balljoint splitter and a hammer. Since then I've invested in the proper scissor type balljoint splitters and the nearside ones were relatively easy. I needed to do this to get the driveshaft tripod joints out of the gearbox.
The manuals say that if the boots are damaged then the whole balljoint should be replaced ... an expensive business!!
Any ideas anyone [?][?]
Steve
