where has the post about the wheel bearings gone as i was thinking of doing a bearing tomorrow 
General somethings disappeared :(
- Thread starter christopher watson
- Start date
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General somethings disappeared :(
its being made into a guide, its not live yet, it will be back
It will make no difference whether the panda is 2 or 4wd for this procedure.
Tools Required:-
Torque wrench
32,19,17,13 & long 12mm sockets
19,17,13mm Ring spaners
Good quality ball joint removal tool (This is optional as there are two methods of removing the bearing this procedure does not require the ball joints to be removed).
Knackered large screwdriver.
Small screwdriver.
Small or large hammer
Axle stand.
Plenty coffee if it's cold.
So Sort out your tools (you don't need as many as shown) and your shiny new Hub bearing
First remove front wheel hub cap and whilst vehicle is still on the ground loosten the front Hub nut see below & wheel nuts but do not remove at this stage(if the handbrake is poor leave the car in first or reverse gear and in any case chock the wheels on opposite side)
Next raise the car & remove the front road wheel (this would be handy as there is no point in removing the rear wheel )
Next using the small screwdriver remove the caliper sliding plate clips top and bottom.
Then using the old screwdriver and the hammer tap out the sliding plates top then bottom then lever the caliper down then pull it out and tie it up out of the way (I normally sit it over the tie bar due to it's shape)
Re: Front wheel Hub/bearing replacement
Next remove the brake pads noteing the anti-rattle clips.
The next item to remove is the wheel aligning bracket this is done by removing the lower shock-piller 19mm bolt and the outer caliper mounting nut 17mm.
Next the caliper mount remove the two 17mm bolts, the upper bolt has thread on both sides of the bolt/nut and remove the Caliper mount (you should now have a nice little pile of parts )
Remove the Brake disc by un-doing the securing and wheel aligning nuts using the long 12mm socket and place the disc where it cannot be scratched or covered in grease.
Next undo and remove the 19mm & 13mm Tie bar to swing arm bolts to allow free movement of the swing arm therefore allowing driveshaft to be removed without undoing the wheel pillar ball joint.
To prevent the requirement of removing the tie rod (steering) ball joint you can undo the 2x13mm bolts securing the steering arm to the shock arm.
Next remove the upper 19mm Shock-wheel pillar nut (I know the pic shows the lower nut but se la vie)
Attached Thumbnails
Re: Front wheel Hub/bearing replacement
The Wheel pillar can now be swung out and downwards and at the same time give the driveshaft a tap, it can be awkward but just keep pushing down the pillar whilst pulling the driveshaft out (this procedure will save you knackering your ball joints so stick with it)
Eventually the driveshaft will release and you will be left with the hub/bearing, disc cover and caliper mounting plate attached by 4x17mm bolts to the wheel pillar. remove the bolts and hey-presto the hub/bearing will drop off.
Now clean the surfaces of the inner and outer side of the pillar, disc cover and caliper mounting plate (you don't want crud getting into your new bearing)
Your halfway so overdue a coffee.
Now get the New bearing, disc cover and mounting plate and arrange in the order shown now attatch using the 4 bolts to the wheel pillar. You will probably still find crud on the bearing after bolting the new one on so give it a clean once the bolts are attatched.
Now go into the house and shout at the Mrs for not giving you coffee in your fav mug (Jim, Paulo make your own arrangements )
Attached Thumbnails
#4
Alan.D on 16 Hours Ago
Re: Front wheel Hub/bearing replacement
Next feed the driveshaft back through the bearing (not forgetting the inner spacer) and loosely tighten the driveshaft nut again don't forget the washer and look proud of your new shiny part's
Put all back as was disconnected. I will list the more important bits...
When replacing the disc I always find that it aligns better if you loosely fit the 4 wheelnuts before replaceing the two fixing bolts (remove the wheel nuts once in place or the wheel wont go back on )
Do not forget to replace the alignment bracket between the shock & caliper mount.
On replacing the pads don't forget the anti-rattle clips just push the clip down as you are fitting them.
When replacing the sliding plates on the caliper smear a little copper grease between the surfaces and tap back into position (you may have to lever the caliper up or down for the plates to fit in. Once in replace the pins the flat of a screwdriver will help push them back in if they are tight (watch your fingers)
Replace the wheel and lower the car to the ground then tighten the Hub nut to the required torque? (can't remember)
Finally tap in a grove on the hub nut to prevent it comming off later
Attached Thumbnails
L
Re: Front wheel Hub/bearing replacement
Some may be wondering about my method but as the ball joints are gennerally ruined by removal, this saves that problem. If you want to remove the ball joints use a decent removal tool or you can gaurantee they will be knackered.
The only ball joint left on the car to be replaced is the o/s tie rod all the others are new.
The original bearing I replaced if you noticed is completely different on the inner surface of the second replacement so may have been the reason for the noise.
Sorry about the dirty wheels.
I've done this to help the members so if the admin want to PDF it move the pics about etc to make it look better help yourself
I'm outa here.
Last edited by Alan.D : 16 Hours Ago at 02:30.
Re: Front wheel Hub/bearing replacement
i have to say, this is one of the best thread we have had
you wil have to make do with this itmt
Tools Required:-
Torque wrench
32,19,17,13 & long 12mm sockets
19,17,13mm Ring spaners
Good quality ball joint removal tool (This is optional as there are two methods of removing the bearing this procedure does not require the ball joints to be removed).
Knackered large screwdriver.
Small screwdriver.
Small or large hammer
Axle stand.
Plenty coffee if it's cold.
So Sort out your tools (you don't need as many as shown) and your shiny new Hub bearing
First remove front wheel hub cap and whilst vehicle is still on the ground loosten the front Hub nut see below & wheel nuts but do not remove at this stage(if the handbrake is poor leave the car in first or reverse gear and in any case chock the wheels on opposite side)
Next raise the car & remove the front road wheel (this would be handy as there is no point in removing the rear wheel )
Next using the small screwdriver remove the caliper sliding plate clips top and bottom.
Then using the old screwdriver and the hammer tap out the sliding plates top then bottom then lever the caliper down then pull it out and tie it up out of the way (I normally sit it over the tie bar due to it's shape)
Re: Front wheel Hub/bearing replacement
Next remove the brake pads noteing the anti-rattle clips.
The next item to remove is the wheel aligning bracket this is done by removing the lower shock-piller 19mm bolt and the outer caliper mounting nut 17mm.
Next the caliper mount remove the two 17mm bolts, the upper bolt has thread on both sides of the bolt/nut and remove the Caliper mount (you should now have a nice little pile of parts )
Remove the Brake disc by un-doing the securing and wheel aligning nuts using the long 12mm socket and place the disc where it cannot be scratched or covered in grease.
Next undo and remove the 19mm & 13mm Tie bar to swing arm bolts to allow free movement of the swing arm therefore allowing driveshaft to be removed without undoing the wheel pillar ball joint.
To prevent the requirement of removing the tie rod (steering) ball joint you can undo the 2x13mm bolts securing the steering arm to the shock arm.
Next remove the upper 19mm Shock-wheel pillar nut (I know the pic shows the lower nut but se la vie)
Attached Thumbnails
Re: Front wheel Hub/bearing replacement
The Wheel pillar can now be swung out and downwards and at the same time give the driveshaft a tap, it can be awkward but just keep pushing down the pillar whilst pulling the driveshaft out (this procedure will save you knackering your ball joints so stick with it)
Eventually the driveshaft will release and you will be left with the hub/bearing, disc cover and caliper mounting plate attached by 4x17mm bolts to the wheel pillar. remove the bolts and hey-presto the hub/bearing will drop off.
Now clean the surfaces of the inner and outer side of the pillar, disc cover and caliper mounting plate (you don't want crud getting into your new bearing)
Your halfway so overdue a coffee.
Now get the New bearing, disc cover and mounting plate and arrange in the order shown now attatch using the 4 bolts to the wheel pillar. You will probably still find crud on the bearing after bolting the new one on so give it a clean once the bolts are attatched.
Now go into the house and shout at the Mrs for not giving you coffee in your fav mug (Jim, Paulo make your own arrangements )
Attached Thumbnails
#4
Alan.D on 16 Hours Ago
Re: Front wheel Hub/bearing replacement
Next feed the driveshaft back through the bearing (not forgetting the inner spacer) and loosely tighten the driveshaft nut again don't forget the washer and look proud of your new shiny part's
Put all back as was disconnected. I will list the more important bits...
When replacing the disc I always find that it aligns better if you loosely fit the 4 wheelnuts before replaceing the two fixing bolts (remove the wheel nuts once in place or the wheel wont go back on )
Do not forget to replace the alignment bracket between the shock & caliper mount.
On replacing the pads don't forget the anti-rattle clips just push the clip down as you are fitting them.
When replacing the sliding plates on the caliper smear a little copper grease between the surfaces and tap back into position (you may have to lever the caliper up or down for the plates to fit in. Once in replace the pins the flat of a screwdriver will help push them back in if they are tight (watch your fingers)
Replace the wheel and lower the car to the ground then tighten the Hub nut to the required torque? (can't remember)
Finally tap in a grove on the hub nut to prevent it comming off later
Attached Thumbnails
L
Re: Front wheel Hub/bearing replacement
Some may be wondering about my method but as the ball joints are gennerally ruined by removal, this saves that problem. If you want to remove the ball joints use a decent removal tool or you can gaurantee they will be knackered.
The only ball joint left on the car to be replaced is the o/s tie rod all the others are new.
The original bearing I replaced if you noticed is completely different on the inner surface of the second replacement so may have been the reason for the noise.
Sorry about the dirty wheels.
I've done this to help the members so if the admin want to PDF it move the pics about etc to make it look better help yourself
I'm outa here.
Last edited by Alan.D : 16 Hours Ago at 02:30.
Re: Front wheel Hub/bearing replacement
i have to say, this is one of the best thread we have had
you wil have to make do with this itmt
Last edited:
its ok, i will fit the rear bearings tomorrow instead (if i can be bothered after college )
)lloydtyphoon
New member
You can do the rear ones in 5 minutes a side from start to finish. Simply take the drum off, remove hub nut, slide hub off, slide new one on, fit nut, refit drum. Easy.
dont forget use new hub nuts and a torque wrench
DAMN, i forgot i needed a torque wrench :bang:
a big one at that, one that goes up to 220 lbs iircchristopher watson said:
dave said:
220
John H
Established member
I'm glad that excellent post is being turned into a guide, which will hopefully survive for some time.
The only comment I'd like to add, or rather reinforce as it was mentioned in the original post, is that I haven't needed to do this section:
"Next undo and remove the 19mm & 13mm Tie bar to swing arm bolts to allow free movement of the swing arm therefore allowing driveshaft to be removed without undoing the wheel pillar ball joint."
It's a bit fiddly, but the driveshaft does come out of the hub with the tie bar still attached.
Needless to say the method gives full access to the driveshaft for changing boots.
The torque for the hub nut is 144 ft/lb or 196 Nm, according to Haynes.
Porter says "216", which I'd take to be Nm as their stuff is mostly cribbed from the FIAT (metric) originals AFAIK.
One "tool" I find useful for these incredibly tight things is an extending wheel wrench (with a 1/2 inch drive) - they are currently in Lidl for 2.49 UKP - it's longer than any of my other "proper" tools, and size does matter..
The only comment I'd like to add, or rather reinforce as it was mentioned in the original post, is that I haven't needed to do this section:
"Next undo and remove the 19mm & 13mm Tie bar to swing arm bolts to allow free movement of the swing arm therefore allowing driveshaft to be removed without undoing the wheel pillar ball joint."
It's a bit fiddly, but the driveshaft does come out of the hub with the tie bar still attached.
Needless to say the method gives full access to the driveshaft for changing boots.
The torque for the hub nut is 144 ft/lb or 196 Nm, according to Haynes.
Porter says "216", which I'd take to be Nm as their stuff is mostly cribbed from the FIAT (metric) originals AFAIK.
One "tool" I find useful for these incredibly tight things is an extending wheel wrench (with a 1/2 inch drive) - they are currently in Lidl for 2.49 UKP - it's longer than any of my other "proper" tools, and size does matter..
Attachments
Last edited:
lloydtyphoon
New member
I just used a very large strongbar.christopher watson said:
John the front bushes on the tie bar are brand new and the bar as a result was very stiff and wouldn't allow the swing arm to drop sufficiantly. I know I could have released pressure on the bushes by undoing the nut but ?
The one in the pic was an Argos one at £14
machine mart do a clarke torque wrench for £15
make sure it goes up high enough and down low enough, mine cost £150 20 years ago still going strong but only goes from 20-100christopher watson said:machine mart do a clarke torque wrench for £15
John H
Established member
OKAlan.D said:
My reason for mentioning is that I sheared the bolts which attached the tie bar to the arm the last time I was there - wrote the arm off - when replacing the front bushes.
Isn't the size/shape difference between new and old bushes amazing?
I thought I'd got the wrong parts..
Another way to tighten/loosen hub nuts is to get a socket welded to a steel arm. Photo to follow...
Thought it may be helpful to suggest the following:
When I changed the inner D/S boot recently the ball joints seperated quite easily using hammer blows to the side - which is normal mechanics procedure. I would not recommend or consider using a ball joint splitter even if your joints are shot - not necessary. With a suitable weight engineers hammer (though I used a brick hammer) the taper-fit joint usually 'shocks apart' after a couple of blows. A bottle jack can be used to add a little force to the end of the joint if needed (with nut on to protect end threads) and holding another big hammer to the other side can be useful.
On re-assembly I add a little copper grease to help any future seperation - however this means that you will first need to jack the joint together tight or the whole joint will turn.
When replacing the hub nut I ground (flat) a little of the reverse side of the nut - just enough to gain a 'new' area for re-staking the nut.
Great thread though!!
When I changed the inner D/S boot recently the ball joints seperated quite easily using hammer blows to the side - which is normal mechanics procedure. I would not recommend or consider using a ball joint splitter even if your joints are shot - not necessary. With a suitable weight engineers hammer (though I used a brick hammer) the taper-fit joint usually 'shocks apart' after a couple of blows. A bottle jack can be used to add a little force to the end of the joint if needed (with nut on to protect end threads) and holding another big hammer to the other side can be useful.
On re-assembly I add a little copper grease to help any future seperation - however this means that you will first need to jack the joint together tight or the whole joint will turn.
When replacing the hub nut I ground (flat) a little of the reverse side of the nut - just enough to gain a 'new' area for re-staking the nut.
Great thread though!!
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