damn! was the CV boot split? how did it get so bad without you knowing?

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It was not when I did the "what have I bought?!" inspection in 2013, but the CV made click noises with wheels turned, going straight it was silent.The engine, gearbox front calipers and rear shocks are the only mechanical parts in good condition in this car, the clutch, rest of suspension, exhaust and rear brakes are really bad junk, , but I hoped they'll last a few weeks/months more, through the 4x4 transformation. Oh well, I have few used good CV's from y10 4wd, so it is easlily{ and cheap} repairable.

I have recently spent some money and repaired some weak points in regataD. Namely the reconditioned alternator, reconditioned diesel in.pump, new battery , cambelt,and new glow-plugs relay. It wasn't cheapbut now it starts with the halfturn of the starter

101% worn out brake pads from pandabellaAll car's components I mentioned to be in bad condition are like this pad, the previous owner repaired this car only when something broke off apparently

yeah thats dead and some!
for what they cost, may as well replace the discs and pads

yeah those old indirect injection diesel engines.. you could get them to start with only a quick dab of the "start" switch.
these modern common rail ones require a few turns to put some pressure in the common rail.

Small mod of the dash lights, original bulb was to weak imho, and the switches were not illuminated. It is to bright now must dim it a bit somehow.

Bartpanda said:

Small mod of the dash lights, original bulb was to weak imho, and the switches were not illuminated. It is ON FIRE nowAhhhh must dim it a bit somehow.

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be careful that the heat from the bulbs do not damage anything.. which it will very easy.

i would have gone LED myself using some LEDs on a strip. i am not sure if that is what you used..?

to dim it, get a nice wire wound potentiometer rated at about 500 ohms there will be the brightness you are looking for somewhere in its scale.

you could also wire in a nice auto dimming circuit.. when the headlamp switch is set to position 3 it makes the dash dim right down..

just had a closer look.. that looks like some nice warm white LED 3014 on a strip. looks good.

should have got the RGB SMD 5050 with little controller box and remote. it is what Talon uses..

LEDs on a strip. i am not sure if that is what you used..?

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not much heat then.

I have potentiometer from regata, original fiat part, I'll use it or make some kind of dimming membrane to cover the leds

hmm just remember, if the pot was originally intended for use with old style filament bulbs, it will not dim sound the LED strips as much as it should..

mind you, in parallel they should add up to a few watts so may work.

ignore my ramblings.. try it out and see if it works

Panda archeology, I did not use petrol for the last 3.5 years, only lpg.

Last Sunday's petrolheads meeting

Roof bars onboard! I have chosen the easy way and did not remove the headlining, it is old and started to disintegrate as I tried to remove it, so just 25mm holes drilled with hole saw.

My small electric fuel pump mod fits into the tank, that is a good news work in progress with disassembling trekking.

I'm struggling to work out how your exhaust sits around the fuel tank - looking back it appears to neatly to the rear of the tank but I can't see how the silencer mounts.

Can you show a photo please?

Either way, I've never liked the half crushed 90 right, 90 left over the prop shaft set up as standard so I'd like to find a neater alternative..

Now the exhaust is original 4x2{yellow}. It fouls with the towing hook a bit, that is why it is a bit lower now to omit the tow, but still touches it and makes noises. It is temporary so it is enough OK for now.

About the exhaust:
I am planning to use the downpipe from uno or panda with newer type of gearbox with cables inside the car, the twin-pipes are almost straight under the car because do not have to omit the rods under the car, then there is a connecting flange, again I am going to use straight pipe with flexi hose, not going to go under the propshaft like in stock 4x4{green}.
Here, a "situation plan" and some pictures , how I am thinking of doing this.White dots are potential silencers:






Inspirations:





I have built exhaust for my regata 2000, so should deal with this either. I hope

Thank you, inspiring indeed.

I'm thinking of side exit ahead of the rear wheel on the right hand side with a single silencer (and aluminium shields for the prop joints and driver's backside).

Bartpanda I love how you tip the car on it's side to do repair work, I need this method in my life.

Twisted panda 4x4 downpipe vs straight panda 4x2 1.0ie with new type of gearbox{ cat. removed}.I am going to build exhaust starting with this 4x2 straight one.

I love how you tip the car on it's side to do repair work, I need this method in my life.

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Tip "how to", when friends are not arround{ blankets on the wheels because I did not want to scratch the recently painted wheels}



Plus some rustporn for oxidation zealots

How do you do that without denting the door and side panels? Sorry for the stupid question!

That is filth!