Bassically the underside of the newest Selecta is rust free, but it need undersealing.

Never done this/head this done before, so any idea's, hint, tips or pointing in the right direction would be helpful. Do companies do it

Many thanks. Jon.

If you have access to a compressor then Body Schutz is good stuff which you can get from automotive paint suppliers and you can do the job yourself. Needless to say, the surface needs to be prepared first, preparation being 90% of the job.
Rgds.

Can anyone else expand on this at all?

I don't have access to a sprayer thingy that Petel recomended unfortunatly.

What prep work will I need to do, and what can I use.

Some one in the Punto section mentioned using this on the underside of a Punto;

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/...1_productId_174441_langId_-1_categoryId_90912

Please help, I'm beginning to get a bit desperate here, and don't want to have a bloody good nic Panda fall foul of tin worm which could have been prevented.

Many thanks again. Jon.

Hey there,

Panick yee not! Just pop into any old car accessory shop and they'll have a form of underseal. 3M do one thats quite good, and I use a really oily one (cant remember what its called right now....comes in a black can with yellowy writing on it i think).

As far as preparation is concerned, make sure it is free from dirt and oil (plenty of oil on a pandas bottom!) as it says on most cans, and (with some underseal paints) it might be benefitial to roughen the surface lightly with some (not too abrasive now ) sand paper. It would be best too if you could get the car up in the air or high enough for you to move around adequately and safey and have room to spray. As well as seeing what has been done and what has been missed.

Hope that helps,

Si

pandamonius_maximus said:

It would be best too if you could get the car up in the air or high enough for you to move around adequately and safey and have room to spray.

Click to expand...

So it's spray on?

Is there any 'paint on' types of underseal?

Many thanks for your reply Si.

Jon.

Morning! It seems we're running on similar foruming times haha, although it might just be a conincidence...job hunting has me on the computer most of the day.

Anyway, back on to topic they are spray on (certainly the ones I have used) but I am a huge fan of spray paint anyway. Gives it better coverage (although less control over where it goes!) and means you dont have to hold your hand above yourself brushing away for hours. If you just wish to paint it on though, as petel has said just buy the stuff from a automotive supplier in a big tin and wip out the brush! I think that would be ok anyway, dont think you have to use it with a compressor.

Enjoy anyway, I seem to remember being covered in tiny little black dots when I did it. lol.

Cheers,

Si

Thing is, you need to make sure all areas of rust are exposed. Corrosion can continue unnoticed beneath the original Fiat sealing agent. Mine looked okay until I began to probe around more. Once the original coating begins to lift moisture ingress works beneath the coating and makes the situation far worse - often progressing undetected!
Underbody seal that forms a coat over any rust is to be avoided - it looks good but corrosion may well continue, once again undetected. This is why Waxoyl is popular. However this 'dries out' and you are soon back to where you started if you don't keep it 'soft'. Garages will do under body sealing for you including Waxoyling - ask around. They will recommend you have it reapplied at least biannually. The problem is, getting it effectively into all the nooks and crannies that are inaccessible ie. between the inner and outer sills.
Regular thorough inspection is the key... says he...

lightweightmick said:

Thing is, you need to make sure all areas of rust are exposed. Corrosion can continue unnoticed beneath the original Fiat sealing agent. Mine looked okay until I began to probe around more. Once the original coating begins to lift moisture ingress works beneath the coating and makes the situation far worse - often progressing undetected!
Underbody seal that forms a coat over any rust is to be avoided - it looks good but corrosion may well continue, once again undetected. This is why Waxoyl is popular. However this 'dries out' and you are soon back to where you started if you don't keep it 'soft'. Garages will do under body sealing for you including Waxoyling - ask around. They will recommend you have it reapplied at least biannually. The problem is, getting it effectively into all the nooks and crannies that are inaccessible ie. between the inner and outer sills.
Regular thorough inspection is the key... says he...

Click to expand...

A very good point, which is why I have only used underseal where reapairs have been made, or to cover up any exposed metal. Definately something to concider there.

Si

pandamonius_maximus said:

A very good point, which is why I have only used underseal where reapairs have been made, or to cover up any exposed metal. Definately something to concider there.

Si

Click to expand...

If you do get exposed metal then I would use zinc/ anti-rust primer before applying underseal. This should hopefully do a bit more to prevent rust from taking a hold, give a good surface for the underseal to adhere to thus further protecting the surface

Right. Continuing on (I hope )

We took the new Selecta up to our mechanic in Yarmouth to have the timing belt changed, and were talking about this and told him what we ha brought. Oh no he said. Not the stuff.

He say's that the rubber underseal type isn't ideally for the chasis. He says that's mainly for wheel arches and area's where welding has been done which you want to cover up and protect.

He recomended WaxOyl, which is what normally what it put on the chasis of cars.

So we brought all this (and went bloody mad, and yes, the wallet did hurt);


So, we've got about 7.5L of this bloody stuff, and I even brought a Sprayer unit. Is this what everyone was on about when talking about high pressure sprayer unit's for spraying on underseal in general

Next our mechanic recomended getting any current underseal or coat removed from the chasis, e.g, steam cleaned before applying this. Is this correct? And then spray on this Waxoyl.

Many thanks again, sorry for dragging this out, I just really want to get this done right

Jon.

Like me he's suggesting making sure that you remove any areas where the original coating has lifted otherwise corrosion will continue there undetected. Better, I think, too, to remove built up road film for the same reason. When done professionally holes are drilled into body panels to access otherwise unreachable areas (ie. door pillars). After spraying inside a plug is then used to seal the hole.
My idea for between the inner sill and outer sill area is to block off the drain holes and pour new oil (not old engine oil as it is acidic) into the cavity and let it 'soak in'. This is also best treatment for doors. Bit messy, but repeated annually, better than anything as it soaks into joins and lips etc. creeping into those nooks and crannies
Your mum's not going to be happy if you get oil everywhere now though. So you'll need lots of cardboard, cloths etc. and it's not something to rush over!
Remove the front plastic wheel arch guards too - get plenty waxoyl up round those front door pillars.
Waxoyl tends to 'dry out' and harden over time - the key is consistency. Re-apply at least every two yrs but annual attention is better with the application of a thinned coat to keep the original coating soft.

Garages use high pressure sprayers for applying waxoyl - compressor and air gun - though this is no guarantee that they will get into those 'hard to reach' areas and this method creates a lot of fine overspray - so if you intend on getting a compressor breathing equipment is strongly advised. I've used the pump-up type - like a garden sprayer. But it is equally effective brushed on. The 'nozzle' that comes with the spray kit used to be just a nail in the end of a plastic tube which you could feed into the tiniest hole, but unless the pressure is kept up it soon just dribbles out.

You're Waxoyl will be much better WARM too as it gets thinner when warm and creeps better. So stand your sprayer in warm water and choose a warm day... ha ha...

Waxoyling is like a separate ongoing hobby!

...says the 'expert' who has two rusty Pandas...