I went out and bought the parts
Oil - 5W40 - you're going to need at least 2.5 litres
So I bought 5 litres of "Millers Oils XF Longlife fully synthetic"
Air filter - P/N 55192012 - I used a Mahle original LX 1827
Pollen/Cabin filter - P/N 51852923 - I used a Mahle LA 922
Oil filter - (No idea of P/N) - I used a Mahle OC 986
Along with 4 NGK spark plugs (which I have not yet fitted - so will not describe here) I paid under £90 - I haggled a bit and sold them my sob story - the factor originally wanted over £100
Tools - from memory so don't be surprised if I forget something
7mm (might have been 8!) socket
10mm socket
6 inch socket extension bar
5.5mm socket (Yes! Really!)
I used a 1/4" drive socket set for the above so ended up using both a 1/4" and a 3/8" drive ratchet (for the sump plug and my oil filter 'wrench')
5.5mm spanner - ideally 'cranked' ring but at a push an open end one (I only had some small 'christmas cracker' spanners that fitted!!!)
A selection of torx bits - I forget the sizes - but you can buy a full set of bits for a tenner and you're worth it!
A set of allen keys - I actually used the hex bits from my bit set (see above)
A ratcheting bit driver
a 12mm hex bit (allen key) - don't skimp here - get a 3/8 socket one - this is for the sump plug - you don't want to damage that!
Some sort of oil filter wrench - take your pick of the shop - none of them work nicely - certainly the rubber strappy one didn't work for me I ended up using a 3/8 drive ratchet one made by Bergen
An oil tray - at least 3litres
some sort of non absorbent groundsheet to lay under the car to catch the oil drips
Nitrile/rubber/latex gloves - I used disposable 'Blue Mamba' ones - they're a bit pricey but they don't split so quick
If you have them - ramps or jack+axle stands - and, if you're going under the car eye protection - its up to you - I frequently "forget and regret"
If you have one a suitable torque wrench - but I don't know what the torque should be for the sump plug - so you might want to check that!
A funnel to ease pouring oil into the engine
A torch or lantern or something
Rag or blue towel
Lets start with the oil.
So its best to have warm engine oil and, ideally, you'd have the car on ramps (I didn't - mostly because I knew there was little oil in the engine and I didn't want it seizing on my watch! - So, yes, I did this all with the car on the ground - actually in a howling gale which added an element of 'fun') So start the engine and let it run for a while - or maybe use that time to go to the shop and buy the tools/parts you'll need.
When the engine is warm (but not so hot you burn yourself - you have been warned)
open the bonnet and undo the oil filler cap - this is to break any airlock which might slow the egress of oil (ooh! Listen to me!)
Then go under the car undo the sump plug with the 12mm hex bit.
The plug is about 45cm from the front of the car about 10cm to the left of the midline - be careful - there is another 12mm plug under there - the one on the gearbox (I think) do not undo this one - this is to the right of the midline.
I got it to finger tight and then positioned a tray under it and undid the rest carefully letting the oil drip into the tray and then finally gush out - you will get oil all over the place unless you're careful - you did put that ground sheet down didn't you?
Leave the oil to drip on its own -= if its windy you may want to prop up the tray to bring it up as close as you can to the sump - I used some old decking board offcuts I had lying around
Whilst that drips, get the oil filter wrench out and try to take the oil filter off - you will get oily again so its best to just crack on with this job whilst you're there. Where is the filter - well, its only accessible from under the car - its about 25cm from the front of the bumper back and about 20 cm from the middle line of the car.
I removed it 'blind' just feeling my way as my head was too big to fit under the bumper skirt
If you have ramps this job will be so much more easier - if you are going under the car don't forget the eye protection
As you undo the filter some (quite a bit of) oil will dribble out - so be prepared.
Clean up the area with rag, smear a little clean oil on the rubber part of the new filter (I just used some light oil - but you have got 5litres of engine oil haven't you?) and then screw the new one in place and tighten as reasonably tight as you can by hand - don't go mad here but don't skimp - if you have the ability to torque it to the correct value go for it. I just tightened it as much as I could (after I took all the oil off my gloves)
If you're lucky, the oil will have stopped dripping from the sump - if not you might have to come back in a few minutes - a cup of tea - you've earned it - or you can crack on with something else if you want.
When the oil has stopped dripping put the sump plug back in and torque it back up (I, erm, did it back up to the tightness I thought I'd undone - this is not scientific, accurate or safe - you should do it properly)
Clean up all the oily undercar bits with a rag and congratulate yourself on having got the dirtiest parts of the job done.
Now, using the funnel, pour a couple of litres of oil into the engine, put the lid back on and leave it alone for a while - you might want to roll the car off the ramps at this point or perhaps - I wouldn't start the engine yet though - the car needs to be on a level surface for the final topup
Wait for 20 minutes or so for the oil to have dripped down into the sump and start being visible on the dip stick. Add oil in 1/2 litre glugs, waiting a few minutes between each for the oil to get to the bottom before checking again - the aim is to have the oil up to just under the maximum level on the dipstick (the top of the flattened crossh-hash patterned part)
The air filter is close by - so do this now - just make sure your hands are not oily - oily air filters are useless! Though I'm sure a couple of fingerprints around the edge'll be fine
The air filter is behind the front part of the big black plastic box on top of the engine.
First undo the 10 mm bolt holding the big black pipe coming out the front of the air 'box' to the front of the car then undo the 10mm bolts on each side of it securing it to the engine
This will allow you to lever the front up to see all 6 of the 7mm hex head screws holding the front of the box on. Go right ahead and undo all 6 of them - using the 6" extension bar really helps.
This should expose the rubber edged air filter - remove it, check the area behind it is clean then fit the new one in its place. It'll be a squeeze - I found that screwing the whole thing back together with the 6 screws forced it nicely into place whatever you do be careful and don't make the filter dirty.
When you reseat the air box in place be careful to line it up over the engine air intake on the back right and to seat it well on the prongy/clippy thing at the back. Then its just a matter of putting the 3 10mm bolts back in place.
This'd probably be a good time to check the oil level.
Only one filter left - the pollen or cabin filter.
This was a pig - it will be a pig for you too - well, unless you have a left hand drive Panda - you're going to get well aquainted with the driver's footwell so get something comfortable to kneel/sit on
You're going to need a torch here too.
First you need to remove any mat you might have - not the carpet just any loose mats.
Using a torx bit undo the torx screw roughly where your left knee would be if you are driving.
Using a hex bit ( I forget the size - 6mm maybe?) undo the two screws in the fat-finger size holes roughly where a driver's left ankle would be.
Then using a little force pull the whole panel off in a kinda "down bit to the right" sort of way - It will come off quite easily - you don't need to be brutal.
Now, in the dark behind the clutch pedal you will see two shiny screws - these are the 5.5mm ones - the nearest one is easy to get out - though you may want to move the wires in your way.
The furthest is a real PITA - good luck!
When you have got them out the cover should come out quite easily (watch out for those wires).
Pulling the old filter out was a pain - putting the new one back in is annoying too - just make sure that you get the filter the right way around - the stiff bits should go top and bottom and the air flow is from the front of the car to the back. How you get it in past the pedals and that bar holding the steering column in place is up to you - I found that cursing helped.
When its in you get to put the cover back on and do up the screws again - the nearest one first - to hold it all in place - the furthest last - try to do it up as best you can.
Lastly put the big cover back in place and do up the 2 hex screws and the one torx screw.
There! The basic service is complete - after the oil filter and the pollen filter you might deserve a good rest!
That said you probably want to check the tyres are good, the brakes are ok etc etc - if its a 2 year service you should probably to the spark plugs too - but I'm going to have to buy a tool to get the spark plug leads off - so I've not done that yet - they're under tha airbox if you're interested
I hope this helps someone
I'm not going to be on this forum much so don't be too surprised if I don't respond to any questions
Have fun
Oil - 5W40 - you're going to need at least 2.5 litres
So I bought 5 litres of "Millers Oils XF Longlife fully synthetic"
Air filter - P/N 55192012 - I used a Mahle original LX 1827
Pollen/Cabin filter - P/N 51852923 - I used a Mahle LA 922
Oil filter - (No idea of P/N) - I used a Mahle OC 986
Along with 4 NGK spark plugs (which I have not yet fitted - so will not describe here) I paid under £90 - I haggled a bit and sold them my sob story - the factor originally wanted over £100
Tools - from memory so don't be surprised if I forget something
7mm (might have been 8!) socket
10mm socket
6 inch socket extension bar
5.5mm socket (Yes! Really!)
I used a 1/4" drive socket set for the above so ended up using both a 1/4" and a 3/8" drive ratchet (for the sump plug and my oil filter 'wrench')
5.5mm spanner - ideally 'cranked' ring but at a push an open end one (I only had some small 'christmas cracker' spanners that fitted!!!)
A selection of torx bits - I forget the sizes - but you can buy a full set of bits for a tenner and you're worth it!
A set of allen keys - I actually used the hex bits from my bit set (see above)
A ratcheting bit driver
a 12mm hex bit (allen key) - don't skimp here - get a 3/8 socket one - this is for the sump plug - you don't want to damage that!
Some sort of oil filter wrench - take your pick of the shop - none of them work nicely - certainly the rubber strappy one didn't work for me I ended up using a 3/8 drive ratchet one made by Bergen
An oil tray - at least 3litres
some sort of non absorbent groundsheet to lay under the car to catch the oil drips
Nitrile/rubber/latex gloves - I used disposable 'Blue Mamba' ones - they're a bit pricey but they don't split so quick
If you have them - ramps or jack+axle stands - and, if you're going under the car eye protection - its up to you - I frequently "forget and regret"
If you have one a suitable torque wrench - but I don't know what the torque should be for the sump plug - so you might want to check that!
A funnel to ease pouring oil into the engine
A torch or lantern or something
Rag or blue towel
Lets start with the oil.
So its best to have warm engine oil and, ideally, you'd have the car on ramps (I didn't - mostly because I knew there was little oil in the engine and I didn't want it seizing on my watch! - So, yes, I did this all with the car on the ground - actually in a howling gale which added an element of 'fun') So start the engine and let it run for a while - or maybe use that time to go to the shop and buy the tools/parts you'll need.
When the engine is warm (but not so hot you burn yourself - you have been warned)
open the bonnet and undo the oil filler cap - this is to break any airlock which might slow the egress of oil (ooh! Listen to me!)
Then go under the car undo the sump plug with the 12mm hex bit.
The plug is about 45cm from the front of the car about 10cm to the left of the midline - be careful - there is another 12mm plug under there - the one on the gearbox (I think) do not undo this one - this is to the right of the midline.
I got it to finger tight and then positioned a tray under it and undid the rest carefully letting the oil drip into the tray and then finally gush out - you will get oil all over the place unless you're careful - you did put that ground sheet down didn't you?
Leave the oil to drip on its own -= if its windy you may want to prop up the tray to bring it up as close as you can to the sump - I used some old decking board offcuts I had lying around
Whilst that drips, get the oil filter wrench out and try to take the oil filter off - you will get oily again so its best to just crack on with this job whilst you're there. Where is the filter - well, its only accessible from under the car - its about 25cm from the front of the bumper back and about 20 cm from the middle line of the car.
I removed it 'blind' just feeling my way as my head was too big to fit under the bumper skirt
If you have ramps this job will be so much more easier - if you are going under the car don't forget the eye protectionAs you undo the filter some (quite a bit of) oil will dribble out - so be prepared.
Clean up the area with rag, smear a little clean oil on the rubber part of the new filter (I just used some light oil - but you have got 5litres of engine oil haven't you?) and then screw the new one in place and tighten as reasonably tight as you can by hand - don't go mad here but don't skimp - if you have the ability to torque it to the correct value go for it. I just tightened it as much as I could (after I took all the oil off my gloves)
If you're lucky, the oil will have stopped dripping from the sump - if not you might have to come back in a few minutes - a cup of tea - you've earned it - or you can crack on with something else if you want.
When the oil has stopped dripping put the sump plug back in and torque it back up (I, erm, did it back up to the tightness I thought I'd undone - this is not scientific, accurate or safe - you should do it properly)
Clean up all the oily undercar bits with a rag and congratulate yourself on having got the dirtiest parts of the job done.
Now, using the funnel, pour a couple of litres of oil into the engine, put the lid back on and leave it alone for a while - you might want to roll the car off the ramps at this point or perhaps - I wouldn't start the engine yet though - the car needs to be on a level surface for the final topup
Wait for 20 minutes or so for the oil to have dripped down into the sump and start being visible on the dip stick. Add oil in 1/2 litre glugs, waiting a few minutes between each for the oil to get to the bottom before checking again - the aim is to have the oil up to just under the maximum level on the dipstick (the top of the flattened crossh-hash patterned part)
The air filter is close by - so do this now - just make sure your hands are not oily - oily air filters are useless! Though I'm sure a couple of fingerprints around the edge'll be fine
The air filter is behind the front part of the big black plastic box on top of the engine.
First undo the 10 mm bolt holding the big black pipe coming out the front of the air 'box' to the front of the car then undo the 10mm bolts on each side of it securing it to the engine
This will allow you to lever the front up to see all 6 of the 7mm hex head screws holding the front of the box on. Go right ahead and undo all 6 of them - using the 6" extension bar really helps.
This should expose the rubber edged air filter - remove it, check the area behind it is clean then fit the new one in its place. It'll be a squeeze - I found that screwing the whole thing back together with the 6 screws forced it nicely into place whatever you do be careful and don't make the filter dirty.
When you reseat the air box in place be careful to line it up over the engine air intake on the back right and to seat it well on the prongy/clippy thing at the back. Then its just a matter of putting the 3 10mm bolts back in place.
This'd probably be a good time to check the oil level.
Only one filter left - the pollen or cabin filter.
This was a pig - it will be a pig for you too - well, unless you have a left hand drive Panda - you're going to get well aquainted with the driver's footwell so get something comfortable to kneel/sit on
You're going to need a torch here too.
First you need to remove any mat you might have - not the carpet just any loose mats.
Using a torx bit undo the torx screw roughly where your left knee would be if you are driving.
Using a hex bit ( I forget the size - 6mm maybe?) undo the two screws in the fat-finger size holes roughly where a driver's left ankle would be.
Then using a little force pull the whole panel off in a kinda "down bit to the right" sort of way - It will come off quite easily - you don't need to be brutal.
Now, in the dark behind the clutch pedal you will see two shiny screws - these are the 5.5mm ones - the nearest one is easy to get out - though you may want to move the wires in your way.
The furthest is a real PITA - good luck!
When you have got them out the cover should come out quite easily (watch out for those wires).
Pulling the old filter out was a pain - putting the new one back in is annoying too - just make sure that you get the filter the right way around - the stiff bits should go top and bottom and the air flow is from the front of the car to the back. How you get it in past the pedals and that bar holding the steering column in place is up to you - I found that cursing helped.
When its in you get to put the cover back on and do up the screws again - the nearest one first - to hold it all in place - the furthest last - try to do it up as best you can.
Lastly put the big cover back in place and do up the 2 hex screws and the one torx screw.
There! The basic service is complete - after the oil filter and the pollen filter you might deserve a good rest!
That said you probably want to check the tyres are good, the brakes are ok etc etc - if its a 2 year service you should probably to the spark plugs too - but I'm going to have to buy a tool to get the spark plug leads off - so I've not done that yet - they're under tha airbox if you're interested
I hope this helps someone
I'm not going to be on this forum much so don't be too surprised if I don't respond to any questions
Have fun
