fecking vag skoda no one can fix

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fecking vag skoda no one can fix

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Friend has had this car 15 years main dealer serviced regardless of cost.
couple of months back it started cutting out randomly, i had a look and one rad hose was hot other was cold even though gauge was up to temp so i though ah temperature sensor will be getting wrong info and not fuelling right. so new thermostat complete with housing and new temp sensor from ecp was fitted.

didn't fix problem, she needed car fixed quick so it went to local garage, he tried various things cleaned tb and fuel tank breather checked wiring for rat bits and pee but couldn't find what was wrong.

It has had egr valve fault putting engine light on for last 2 years but both me and the local garage know about this and just clear the fault its a 1.4 petrol so that fault wasn't causing this problem.

Local garage was investigating for free but in his own time between jobs as he didn't want to ripp my friend off, but she thought best take it to skoda as they would know what it was and fix it quick :rolleyes: she told them we knew it wasnt egr. after a number of weeks she got car back and a bill for about £600 including fitting a new egr valve :bang: also new leads coil and relay 109 (iirc) but the fault it went in with was still there :eek:
friend has now bought a newer version of the same car (not from the main dealer)

but she didn't want to just scrap the old one, so we have still been trying to fix it, we have changed all the relays now, new spark plugs, various sensors including the temp sensor again, changed fuel pump and fuel rail (but not injectors as they not the same on donor car mk4 golf)

cant find tdc sensor unless its one of the things ive already changed, arrowed in photo.

I don't know where the ecu is on this car y reg skoda octavia or where it is on the mk4 golf.

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Edit:- its looking like Vw skoda ecu are under scuttle panels,
 
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Well, I was going to say the 109 relay because that's the main power one but that's out of the window. I've an idea MK4 Golf ECU's are above the throttle pedal somewhere but don't quote me, MK5's are in the scuttle panel. I presume there's no fault codes?
 
A few thoughts.

1. Our Fiats occasionally cut out, caused by corroding main earth leads. Might be worth checking all the earth cables and other ign and fuelling connections.

2. Did changing the stat cure the hot/cold hose problem? Is it cutting out due to an overheat? Is the radiator blocked? Is the water pump impeller loose on its shaft, so not pumping properly?

3. Is the cutout fuel or ignition? Is there a fuel cutoff switch that is playing up?

4. Has it had a big bunch of keys hanging on the ignition key, and the ignition switch is worn, occasionally losing contact?

5. When it cuts out, does it restart immediately, or do you have to wait? Might help point at a connection breaking/making, rather than an overheat.

6. Fuel breather system blockage?
 
thanks for the reply.
1. we did main earth

2. yes heated normal after that

3. engine just cuts out and dash lights come on

4. yes she had many keys but only 1 key is being used atm

5. you have to wait about 10 minutes before it will restart, thats what made me originally thing temp sensor

6. local garage checked them and said they are ok, it cuts out with or with out fuel cap on
 
thanks for the reply.
3. engine just cuts out and dash lights come on
Which lights? If the engine stalls, we get the charge and oil pressure light on. If you turn it off then on again, we should get the whole array. Might help.
4. yes she had many keys but only 1 key is being used atm
Sadly, once damage done with sloppy lock/switch, only cure is replacement. Jiggle it a bit to see if it causes the stop. Although, I'd expect this to turn off all the dash lights, as if turned off with the key.
5. you have to wait about 10 minutes before it will restart, thats what made me originally thing temp sensor
When we had single coils and a distributor, this type of failure was often caused by a coil or condenser failure. Worked again once cooled. Is that a single coil on the end of the head? When the car stops, how hot is it? If it has been off recently, does it need new heatsink paste behind it?
Something is getting hot, then cooling to allow a restart. Ignition coil, ECU, fuel pump, fuel pump relay. (Just a few off the top of my head, might be more options.) When it stops, need to rush around having a feel, see which one burns. Take care, and TCP.:D
 
the map/maf from the golf didnt fit in the hole, cleaned existing one, car still broke,

fitted throttle body from polo, car still broke,

fitted ecu from polo put chip in skoda key, key ligh stays on car dont start,

wiggled key car stays running,

relay 18 gets warm but car runs with relay 18 removed

:shrug:

when it stalls battery light is on turn off and on again they all come on as normal
 
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When we had single coils and a distributor, this type of failure was often caused by a coil or condenser failure. Worked again once cooled. Is that a single coil on the end of the head? When the car stops, how hot is it? If it has been off recently, does it need new heatsink paste behind it?

I think you may be onto some thing here i took coil off and left it away from engine, car ran for a lot longer before cutting out and didt just die it went all shaky like bad miss fire then died, coil was getting warm where it was still so i got a bag of ice and sat coil on it and it restarted and is still running as i type. this coil skoda charged my friend for seems very dirty underneath for a new coil i think they may have just cleaned the bit she could see and charged for new :eek:

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hmm no invoice here for coil pack
got these

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strange they change leads so must have suspected an ignition fault but didn't think coil. ive only not checked it before as i was sure mate said they have fitted a new one :eek:

edit ah it says they tried a new coil pack but no difference. didn't see that new engine bit before, low com on number 2 wouldn't cause cutting out would it? ive known fire engines to run for ages with low com on 1 cylinder
 
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That coil is not new, too much corrosion for a new one. If coil gets hot, and then works when cold, that would seem to be the culprit unless anyone has an idea what might cause it to run hot otherwise.

Their description of compression check and result as low on power is a strange mixture.
If they did a proper compression check, we'd expect some readings recorded, and a description of "low compression".
My guess is they did a power test. With the engine running, the diagnostic machine cuts one cylinder at a time, or they just earth one plug lead, and note the drop in revs. If any cylinder drops less than the rest, it was not doing as much work as the others. That can be due to compression, (head gasket, rings, valves), or a poor plug, leads or coil. Further diagnosis should be done to establish the reason, rather than just condemn the whole engine!
Low power from one cylinder will cause uneven tickover, possible running a bit rough as it revs up, but no sudden stop.

Sudden stop does appear to be electrical or fuel, not mechanical. Just battery light on suggests engine stalled, just like you might at the lights, etc. Oil light ought to come on too. Is the oil pressure switch ok?

When it stops, is the fuel pump still operating when you try a restart? When engine stalls, loss of oil pressure will probably cut the fuel pump. When you attempt a restart, pump should run.

If pump running, cause is probably ignition. I'd try a new coil.

Keep going, once fixed it will be a good car again.
 
new coil is on and it was running on the drive for nearly and hour with no problem, need to wait for son to road test it but so far its looking good thanks.

my friend will be a bit annoyed with skoda now she has gone out and spent thousands on a new car if a part they said wouldn't fix it has.
 
That's a real B'stard trick for the main dealer to pull - and that seems to be a common theme with modern garages - they no longer employ mechanics, they employ 'technicians' who seem to know nothing more than where to plug in the computer.
If 'computer says no' then they seem screwed.
If this garage has simply wiped over an old part with a rag then charged for a new part, they desrve their backsides kicking.
 
no what they did was say they tried a new coil and it made no difference so didnt fit it, and instead reckoned they did a compresion test and it was low on cylinder number 2 and she needed a new engine.
this was after they fitted and charged for a new egr even though they was told egr fault had been there for 2 years and wasnt the cause of the problem.

the problem was car cut out when hot. the new coil pack from scrappy has fixed it its still running fine.
 
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