How did you find Fiatforum?

Currently reading:
How did you find Fiatforum?

Would the weld have to be professional 9r could I just tack it at the sides were top nut sits
This is one of my favourite ways to tackle seized fixings. The extreme heat of the welding process heats up the fixing which then contracts on cooling which all helps to loosen it too.

"professional"? well, you do need to be good enough to get full penetration with your weld so It's probably not a job to attempt if you're not reasonably proficient. Doesn't need to be to North Sea Pipe Welder's standards though. :unsure: So, assuming you're talking about the type of wheel fixing on our Fiats (not sure what your car is?) So I mean a bolt which goes through the wheel and screws into the hub? (as compared to a threaded stud sticking out of the hub which you "hang" the wheel on before screwing a nut onto it) So, assuming we are talking about the first type, you need a nut which has a big enough bore to allow you to feed either your welding rod, or wire if you're MIG welding, through it so the arc can be struck between the end of the rod/wire and the bolt itself. If the nut is too small the arc will tend to strike between the nut itself and the rod which won't allow you to get a good melt into the wheel bolt. I like to use my MIG welder, set to quite a high heat so I can be sure the initial arc gets a good chance of melting the end of the bolt. Then it's just a matter of being sure to initiate the arc to the end of the siezed wheel bolt and not the nut, then filling up the middle of the nut with weld. Let it cool and undo. If you try to undo it too soon the weld will still be soft and the nut will just shear off. I do it this way because access to the sides of wheel bolts is often very restricted on alloy wheels, although much better on steel wheels. Also welding down the middle of the nut tends to stop so much spatter getting on the alloy of the wheel. Having said all that I've never had to remove a wheel nut this way as our boss provided a very good set of hammer on wheel nut remover tools. All you had to do was sign them out of the stores. However I have removed quite a number of broken manifold and other studs like this and this method works very well.

The technique if you have studs and nuts is a bit different, so won't waste time discussing here.
 
Hi

Thanks for your input there is no room to put socket over or hammer and chisell it round so do you mean get welder to weld nut on top of locking wheel nut ???? These nuts are horrid they are for the after market alloys and there is no spare wheel I am desperate to get this wheel off I'm going to have to buy a removal tool for the rest of the nuts, some have ten splines inside whilst this locking nut is different but splines on it have rounded inside so key tool would probably have nothing to grip to to turn it anyway.I think the welding way is only way forward to get it off .
You fill the splined hole abit with weld then put a nut on it and fill that with weld, a socket should fit over that and a combination of the welding head and a decent 6 sided socket should work.
The copper I mentioned is only as a shield to protect your wheel, bit of copper with a hole in it where the welding takes place to keep the wheel from getting damaged....
I feel your frustration. Perhaps when you have a problem include a photo for us to see what's going on. The bit for the locking wheel nut is probably fairly unique to the car. Welding is your only man as a hammer and chisell wouldn't work because the stud is recessed 😭
 
You fill the splined hole abit with weld then put a nut on it and fill that with weld, a socket should fit over that and a combination of the welding head and a decent 6 sided socket should work.
The copper I mentioned is only as a shield to protect your wheel, bit of copper with a hole in it where the welding takes place to keep the wheel from getting damaged....
I feel your frustration. Perhaps when you have a problem include a photo for us to see what's going on. The bit for the locking wheel nut is probably fairly unique to the car. Welding is your only man as a hammer and chisell wouldn't work because the stud is rece
 
IMG_20240322_124050.jpg
IMG_20240322_124050.jpg


This is rounded spline nut key just turns round
IMG_20240322_124050.jpg
 
Looks like there's lots of corrosion between the ally wheel and steel splined bolt. I'd be tempted to take a flat ended punch, large enough to cover the end of the splined bolt, and place it on the end of the bolt then hit it hard quite a number of times. This will tend to break the hold of the corrosion and may even influence the grip of the threads in the hole. I'd be quite tempted look through my splined bit set and choose one which was just slightly too big for the bolt and hammer it into the hole - t'would need to be a pretty tight fit. If you've prepared the bolt by whacking it repeatedly with the hammer and punch It may then surrender to being undone. If that fails, then I'd weld a nut over it - as we've been discussing above. It's very likely the combination of the shocks from the hammering and then the heat and cooling from the welding will make removal possible.
 
I've seen people belt these open with a hammer and chisel but the risk of doing damage to the alloy is always there. Me I'd definitely put a nut in there and fill the hole with weld. Best option would be a stick welder as you can reach the bit you want and it's not fussy about rust. May take a few goes at it.... nut may snap off so have a couple of spares 👍
 
Just interested, have never advertisied (apart from a few newsgroup postings)...

So how did you find us?

ben
rave.gif


bravo 1.6sx
looks: momo twin 17" alloys, debadged, smoked headlights, black side repeaters, smoked rear clusters, midnight window tint
feels: apex 40mm lower springs, apex sports shock's, k&n 57i induction
sounds: pioneer deh-7400mp, pioneer tse-6995 (rear)
I was recommended to join on a Facebook page for 500Xs
 
I've seen people belt these open with a hammer and chisel but the risk of doing damage to the alloy is always there. Me I'd definitely put a nut in there and fill the hole with weld. Best option would be a stick welder as you can reach the bit you want and it's not fussy about rust. May take a few goes at it.... nut may snap off so have a couple of spares 👍
Hi there's absolutely no room in there whatsoever to be able to chisel it out, also the strutt is really bad now we're. could I go to get a nut stick welded on my feind did weld on on but this nut does not want to be removed at all. Sand broke off. Ive lost about 5 jobs so far as am an exterior cleaner and do jet washing and gutter clearance work I live in Skegness but this town lives in the dark ages so Wen want something doing I usually go back home to Hull but vans repair won't let me so proper stuck with this issue, whoever had van before the man I bought it off has had aftermarket alloys put on and them stupid spine bolts for them alloys so will have to replace them aswell.
 
Hi there's absolutely no room in there whatsoever to be able to chisel it out, also the strutt is really bad now we're. could I go to get a nut stick welded on my feind did weld on on but this nut does not want to be removed at all. Sand broke off. Ive lost about 5 jobs so far as am an exterior cleaner and do jet washing and gutter clearance work I live in Skegness but this town lives in the dark ages so Wen want something doing I usually go back home to Hull but vans repair won't let me so proper stuck with this issue, whoever had van before the man I bought it off has had aftermarket alloys put on and them stupid spine bolts for them alloys so will have to replace them aswell.
As a last resort, If you had a spare I'd cut through the alloy, the joys of living in the sticks 🙄 I bought my stick welder in Lidl and after some practicing it is easy to use. Let's know what you decide.
 
Back
Top