Hey guys, I'm new here so apologies if I'm posting this in the wrong place. Have a fiat panda active 2007 model. 55000 miles. Had nothing since bother since getting it a year ago... clutch went, windscreen wipers broke (needed new motor), gears are sticking..clutch constantly squeaks when car is warm. But last week I was reversing into the drive and the power steering light came on.... steering went stiff. Managed to get it parked... turned off engine and restarted it. Car was fine. Next day went to start the car and it just kept spluttering. On the 4th go it started (albeit reluctantly). Rang my mechanic who told me he wasn't sure what could be causing the hesitation in starting, but in regards to the power steering I should turn on the city mode. Which I done and steering has been fine since. BUT.... there's always a but isn't there..... when the car is starting from cold, its hesitating... makes sort of a spluttering noise as if its deciding whether to play ball or not. So far (touch wood) it has been starting but I've a feeling that won't be the case much longer.... Any advice would be much appreciated. Also if anyone could advise me on the power steering issue that would be great also.... my mechanic just told me it was a common problem in fiats and that it was expensive to fix but just to use city mode in the meantime....
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The Panda uses an electric powered steering. At low speeds, it takes a lot of power from the battery. It's likely you need a new battery. Most battery centres will "drop test" it for you. They use a special tool that loads the battery to see how well it copes. A new cube battery is about £50 plus VAT. The slightly larger rectangular battery is £40 plus VAT and does the same job.
The clutch sounds like it's worn out. Its not a Panda fault - just use and miles. You should be able to get a new clutch fitted for under £200. Ask the garage to use Shop4Parts - not the cheapest but they don't sell rubbish. Avoid the fast fit outfits like QuickFit or Mr Clutch.
Also get the coolant changed. These engines are great but they really will not handle ANY loss of coolant. By the time you hear the heater gurgling its too late.
The clutch sounds like it's worn out. Its not a Panda fault - just use and miles. You should be able to get a new clutch fitted for under £200. Ask the garage to use Shop4Parts - not the cheapest but they don't sell rubbish. Avoid the fast fit outfits like QuickFit or Mr Clutch.
Also get the coolant changed. These engines are great but they really will not handle ANY loss of coolant. By the time you hear the heater gurgling its too late.
Thanks guys.... clutch was changed last may.... it kept sticking to the floor when changing gear.. then it completely gave up so got it changed... Ever since then its squeaked but bar the noise it hasnt given me any bother. Was serviced a few months ago and new spark plugs where fitted. As for the battery.... that was changed Feburary 2016.... could it be time for new battery already? Ex gymnast.... currently pole dancer 
glenn2602
Member
A new clutch which squeaks?
If the noise disappears when you apply gentle pressure to the clutch pedal, that may be due to a worn pressure plate/clutch release bearing.
A clutch should be changed replacing all 3 components - pressure plate, driven plate and clutch release bearing (also called a thrust bearing).
The pressure plate is the big round thing with 'metal fingers' which are actually springs. When you press the clutch the release bearing moves forward and applies pressure causing it to 'lose grip' on the driven plate - which allows you to change gear.
If only the driven plate is changed as a cost cutting exercise, this can cause noises ...
The thumbnail attached shows the driven plate on the left - pressure plate is on the right.
However, apart from a noise your clutch is working. It would be a good idea to take it to an independent workshop for a quick diagnosis. DON'T go to the likes of Kwik Fit who will tell you that the clutch needs changing .. as do your ball joints and suspension .. *Kwik Fit is a national disgrace.
As to the difficulty in starting - you have no dashboard error messages which tends to suggest that all your sensors are okay. The problem may come down to something as simple as a 'bad earth' (black battery cable..) or the battery itself.
Again - go to a smaller independent workshop and ask their opinion. It probably won't cost anything/very much. Once you have an opinion you can then decide what to do - if anything needs to be done.
*A very elderly neighbour of mine had trouble with his Peugeot convertible .. The hood wouldn't fully go down. KF told him that he needed to replace the electric motors and some of the mechanism. £300 plus £200 labour ..
.. an independent workshop told him to replace the plastic washer on the electrical microswitch .. 47 pence and a five minute job. DON'T use the likes of KF or Halfords. Heck .. even call in at your small local car accessory shop and ask them. They're usually willing to help and can point you in the right direction.
Look on the positive side .. your car works. It's low mileage. Get it out on a motorway and do 70mph for an hour.
If the noise disappears when you apply gentle pressure to the clutch pedal, that may be due to a worn pressure plate/clutch release bearing.
A clutch should be changed replacing all 3 components - pressure plate, driven plate and clutch release bearing (also called a thrust bearing).
The pressure plate is the big round thing with 'metal fingers' which are actually springs. When you press the clutch the release bearing moves forward and applies pressure causing it to 'lose grip' on the driven plate - which allows you to change gear.
If only the driven plate is changed as a cost cutting exercise, this can cause noises ...
The thumbnail attached shows the driven plate on the left - pressure plate is on the right.
However, apart from a noise your clutch is working. It would be a good idea to take it to an independent workshop for a quick diagnosis. DON'T go to the likes of Kwik Fit who will tell you that the clutch needs changing .. as do your ball joints and suspension .. *Kwik Fit is a national disgrace.
As to the difficulty in starting - you have no dashboard error messages which tends to suggest that all your sensors are okay. The problem may come down to something as simple as a 'bad earth' (black battery cable..) or the battery itself.
Again - go to a smaller independent workshop and ask their opinion. It probably won't cost anything/very much. Once you have an opinion you can then decide what to do - if anything needs to be done.
*A very elderly neighbour of mine had trouble with his Peugeot convertible .. The hood wouldn't fully go down. KF told him that he needed to replace the electric motors and some of the mechanism. £300 plus £200 labour ..
.. an independent workshop told him to replace the plastic washer on the electrical microswitch .. 47 pence and a five minute job. DON'T use the likes of KF or Halfords. Heck .. even call in at your small local car accessory shop and ask them. They're usually willing to help and can point you in the right direction.
Look on the positive side .. your car works. It's low mileage. Get it out on a motorway and do 70mph for an hour.
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Poor starting and power steering issues tend to be battery. A new battery should last 5-7 years, but only if it was fresh when first used. A battery sat on the shelf for more than 3 months will have a very short life. Battery should have at least a 2-year guarantee.
Find the manufacture date on the battery and compare with the date you bought it. If more than 3 months old, battery could be suspect. Supplier should be able to test and replace under warranty is necessary.
Clutch squeak? Is this the pedal squeaking as it goes down or comes up? Or is there a squeak in the clutch itself? A pedal squeak suggests a new master cylinder is needed, they are plastic and as they wear they get sticky. This is also what causes pedal to stick down. Did mine last year.
Find the manufacture date on the battery and compare with the date you bought it. If more than 3 months old, battery could be suspect. Supplier should be able to test and replace under warranty is necessary.
Clutch squeak? Is this the pedal squeaking as it goes down or comes up? Or is there a squeak in the clutch itself? A pedal squeak suggests a new master cylinder is needed, they are plastic and as they wear they get sticky. This is also what causes pedal to stick down. Did mine last year.
glenn2602
Member
Good insight by portland_bill, as always.
You don't have huge problems, miss bendy.
You don't have huge problems, miss bendy.
Thank you for such detailed reply... I never knew the clutch had 3 components.... I'm not actually sure what was replaced... the guy just told me he fitted a "new clutch"... he probably knew that going into more detail than that would go over my head! The clutch makes the noise both when pressured is applied and when its released. However, it only starts making the noise when the car is warm. When starting from cold there is no noise. By not doing anything could this cause damage? I did speak to my mechanic about it before (not the same guy who fitted teh clutch) and he just said the guy who changed the clutch possibly forgot to grease it when putting it together... he didnt seem to concerned so I wasn't worried either but I think now I maybe should get a second opinion. Also the gearbox sticks from time to time... mostly when attempting to put it into first from neutral....I read that pandas have a good reputation for being reliable but seems like I've had nothing since trouble with it since buying the car
As for the battery... I got it from Halfords last year so I thought that it wouldn't have needed replacing yet but I wasn't aware that batteries sitting on the shelf could have a shorter lifespan so maybe that could be the problem... just worried that its a really expensive problem
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As mentioned, the power steering is electric and takes a lot of power from the cars electrical system.
If there's a weak point in the electrical system, the steering is usually the first to complain, though the electric motor that runs the steering can have faults of their own but can be replaced with a reconditioned part fairly cheaply if needed.
First thing is to check the car's battery condition, alternator output and the state of the straps and connections.
There is a simple test most garages and the likes of Halfords and Kwikfit can carry out on the battery and alternator to judge the state of battery and alternator output.
It's worth asking your garage to check all the earthing straps and their contact/connection points as well, the earth straps have been known to rust away or break.
Also ask them to check that the alternator belt is in good condition and not slipping.
It's worth noting short trips will kill a battery.
Starting the engine takes a lot out of it and if you aren't doing at least 6 or 7 miles after starting, it'll not recharge fully.
Then the next start pulls the same power of out it, but from a smaller store of power and so on.
Keep doing this and the battery just can't cope and starts failing to hold any charge at all.
It's usually a winter problem as you tend to drive around with lights on and heated windows etc, but it's not untypical at any time.
You'll usually get away with it for around 3 years like this from a top quailty battery, but one of a lesser quailty will start to fail in a year or so.
The clutch noise is common and your garage is probably correct in saying the fitter may have fitted it without greasing, or more likely the thrust/releasing bearing was a cheap part and grease was skimped on when they built it and the factory.
All clutch parts fit and rub against each other and will expand slightly when hot, this tends to cause a dry bearing to squeal when hot.
There's not a lot you can do about it without removing the gearbox, so it's best left alone until it fails or the clutch wears out again.
When they do start getting worn they can howl and chatter away quite loadly!
If there's a weak point in the electrical system, the steering is usually the first to complain, though the electric motor that runs the steering can have faults of their own but can be replaced with a reconditioned part fairly cheaply if needed.
First thing is to check the car's battery condition, alternator output and the state of the straps and connections.
There is a simple test most garages and the likes of Halfords and Kwikfit can carry out on the battery and alternator to judge the state of battery and alternator output.
It's worth asking your garage to check all the earthing straps and their contact/connection points as well, the earth straps have been known to rust away or break.
Also ask them to check that the alternator belt is in good condition and not slipping.
It's worth noting short trips will kill a battery.
Starting the engine takes a lot out of it and if you aren't doing at least 6 or 7 miles after starting, it'll not recharge fully.
Then the next start pulls the same power of out it, but from a smaller store of power and so on.
Keep doing this and the battery just can't cope and starts failing to hold any charge at all.
It's usually a winter problem as you tend to drive around with lights on and heated windows etc, but it's not untypical at any time.
You'll usually get away with it for around 3 years like this from a top quailty battery, but one of a lesser quailty will start to fail in a year or so.
The clutch noise is common and your garage is probably correct in saying the fitter may have fitted it without greasing, or more likely the thrust/releasing bearing was a cheap part and grease was skimped on when they built it and the factory.
All clutch parts fit and rub against each other and will expand slightly when hot, this tends to cause a dry bearing to squeal when hot.
There's not a lot you can do about it without removing the gearbox, so it's best left alone until it fails or the clutch wears out again.
When they do start getting worn they can howl and chatter away quite loadly!
You need to keep well away from the guy who said that. Grease should never be anywhere near a clutch.
The release bearing may squeal as applied and released. The bearing is a sealed item, so would be greased when manufactured. The squeal is usually caused by its contact with the clutch cover being out of alignment. There is no adjustment for this, so could spell more trouble.
The clutch is operated by a lever pushing the bearing against the clutch. You are pushing the other end of the lever indirectly via the pedal and hydraulics. This lever pivots in bushes in the gearbox and these can wear, causing the lever to be out of alignment. This can also cause a heavy pedal action. Needs gearbox out to replace the bushes.
If the bearing is not aligned with the clutch, it could mean the gearbox is not aligned. The gearbox locates on dowels (like round pegs to ensure alignment), but it is possible to displace these, or damage the holes forcing it together. Misalignment can cause noises and the clutch to not release properly, leading to difficult gear engagement.
You need a proper mechanic, who understands all this, to look, listen and feel the clutch action and give his opinion. Good luck with that.
Going back to the original clutch fitter and asking him why it is not right is always the first option. He then needs to sort it. If you try to get one to play off against another everyone loses.
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Thanks everyone for all your help... much appreciated. Took it to Halfords today to get battery tested and its in good working order. As for the original mechanic, he retired due to health problems so can't ask him to look at it unfortunately. It was only when I was getting car serviced few months ago that I thought I'd mention it to the new guy and thats when he said about it possibly needing greased but as it would mean taking a lot of stuff out (and therefore being costly), I was better just leaving it. I know zilch about cars (as is evident) but my thinking was he was probably being truthful as surely he could've made a bit of money by telling me that it needed fixed or I'd be encountering a whole host of other problems. But maybe I should get another opinion as I'm a bit worried now. How much would all that work cost approximately PortlandBill?
Don't worry about squeaking clutch .
It may well just squeak for years and keep working ok . Or if the squeaky bit fails sooner it will be easier for garage,or forum, to tell which bit failed.
Do you and your car only go on short trips?
If so give it an Italian tune up , that's go on a nice long quick drive.
It may well just squeak for years and keep working ok . Or if the squeaky bit fails sooner it will be easier for garage,or forum, to tell which bit failed.
Do you and your car only go on short trips?
If so give it an Italian tune up , that's go on a nice long quick drive.
As above, live with it. If it gets worse, it becomes easier to diagnose. Meanwhile, increase the radio volume.
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The clutch squeak could even be the springs that pull the pedal back. Not a problems just a bit annoying.
It's fair to assume the clutch was fully replaced. Any competent mechanic will fit a full kit because leaving any old parts in there will leave them with the labour costs of doing the job again.
The clutch master cylinder could be failing. It should not be costly to replace.
If re starting the engine gets the steering working again you have a weak battery. However, you need to get the battery and the generator tested. It's a simple test for a mechanic so should not be costly.
Some cars just turn out to be a bag of trouble. I once had a 60,000 miles Punto like that. It had been pampered with cleaning and probably oil changes so looked fab but the mechanical bits had been ignored. Clutch, wheel bearings, brakes, battery, radiator all let me down and all (except the battery perhaps) were due to past negligence.
It's fair to assume the clutch was fully replaced. Any competent mechanic will fit a full kit because leaving any old parts in there will leave them with the labour costs of doing the job again.
The clutch master cylinder could be failing. It should not be costly to replace.
If re starting the engine gets the steering working again you have a weak battery. However, you need to get the battery and the generator tested. It's a simple test for a mechanic so should not be costly.
Some cars just turn out to be a bag of trouble. I once had a 60,000 miles Punto like that. It had been pampered with cleaning and probably oil changes so looked fab but the mechanical bits had been ignored. Clutch, wheel bearings, brakes, battery, radiator all let me down and all (except the battery perhaps) were due to past negligence.
If it needs a master cylinder, the Panda one comes complete with pipes and reservoir. Usually very expensive, but this one looks a bargain.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUI...594927?hash=item3ae581d76f:g:gAwAAOSw~gRV2E6g
Alternatively, the 500 one is identical, although listed with different part numbers. Several have used the 500 one on the Panda, including me. Comes as just the cylinder, so cheaper. Easy to fit.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUI...594927?hash=item3ae581d76f:g:gAwAAOSw~gRV2E6g
Alternatively, the 500 one is identical, although listed with different part numbers. Several have used the 500 one on the Panda, including me. Comes as just the cylinder, so cheaper. Easy to fit.
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Agreed re: the testing but it can also be the torque sensor in the steering. Mine had a recent battery and all charging ok, key off-key on cleared any power steering faults but MES showed the faults and a new sensor sorted it all out.
