Hi Paul,

have they tested the supposedly failed injector for continuity ? Cheaper approach would be to get one from scrap yard and cross fingers ...

Regards, Bernie

Hi Bernie
Thanks for your reply got a reconditioned one coming Tuesday £65 fingers crossed!
Regards
Paul

Hi Paul,

you'll probably need some special tool to remove the injector, you also need to source two copper seals (bracket will lose two injectors).
Let us know how you managed this !!

Regards, Bernie

Hi all,
All sorted now new injector car runs great now but have now noticed when I turn the the left or right I can ear like a springing knocking nose .

Crunching as you turn likely to be strut top bearing. If the sound changes with speed check the driveshaft CV joints

Cool for the injector, thanks for the update about it !! Could you make it without special tooling ??

Spring knocking noise: also when stopped ? If so have someone gets the hand on the spring while you turn the wheel, knock should be felt either on right or left side, would confirm the strut top bearing (well known failure).

Regards, Bernie

@ Moderator: can't thanks reply #24 ... Why ??

hi bernie
strut top bearing knocking on drivers side thanks will change in the week also have went to adjust the handbrake and can see its pull up on drivers side but not passenger side could this be the cable , how hard would this be to test and how hard to change without a ramp the cable does not look like its moving ?

kind regards
paul

Hi Paul,

the cable on passenger side may be broken in its sleeve so you won't see it, you can try to hand-pull it from inside the car where you adjusted the lever; if it comes off you've found the culprit... You should be able to replace the cable(s) in your garage or driveway: for safety reason it is recommended to install the car on two stands (posts / candles).
Remove the wheels and drums -handbrake released !!- and TAKE PICTURE or MAKE a SKETCH of how the things are fit together, keep in mind there are left and right sides !! You'll thank yourself at reassembly...

- Remove (push & twist) the two spring lockers that keep the brake shoes in place.
- Detach the end of the cable (yeah I know, not that easy !) and pull it off the brake assembly plate.
- lose the cable fixing brackets and remove the cable off the car, install the new one
- clean all the brake components, check for seize parts, fix as necessary
- inspect the drum and grind-off the lip that might have been left at drum entry by metal wearing
- shorten the self adjusting thingy, re-install all components and adjust the self adjuster (wear retriever) so the shoes come to slightly touch the drum
- once both sides are done, adjust the hand brake lever to get 3 clicks at full travel
- have a carefull test drive, the new shoes need to set-in properly
- after a few hundred miles, you might have to adjust the lever once again, this is normal

Hope this helps, regards, Bernie

PS: you should probably create separate threads for separate issues, I'm srprised no moderator jumped in already !
Since your first post we have covered different issues that might have been interesting for others IF they knew that under " my car is lumpy" is hidden other stuff...

Hi Paul,

you'll get an idea from the pic of how it looks underneath. The cables exit the body where the exhaust pipe bent 45° in the center of the car, at rear seat level...

Regards, Bernie