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500 (Classic) Starting problems FIAT 500f

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500 (Classic) Starting problems FIAT 500f

Thank you jjacob i did replace the condenser but not with an original 500 but rather a fiat 126 fit difficult on the dizzy but it screwed on eventually but still no luck

I ll carry out these test tom night or thursday night depending on what time iet b Ack from work and revert back
Point to note which makes me sceptical is i have found a bit of oiky residue in the dizzy i suspect from where it was stored they had put antii damp spray on the connections and thhe dizzy i wonder if i should dry out with air cannister in case this causes any dampness that coukd short my spark?
 
This car was running fine and suddenly had this problem? Or was there work done on the ignition / distributor and now the car will not start? In your first post it sounds like the engine ran fine and suddenly will now not start.
John
 
Checked those too but to be sure that i checked oki they are the bottom 2 fuses one is fuse 30 and the other one 15/54. To check that they re ok i took them off and examined the little pin in the middle of each and it is not torn. I also tested i get a reading at either end if the terminal they hook up to and ground and that gives me reading
 
The car ran fine up until a couple of months back in october. Then i had to travel with work and only managed to get back to it now after xmas and here we all are..it was in storage for a few months before hence the comment on the spraying to avoid damp in connections
 
Nothing was touched at all until it would not start..the ignition on position was very temperamental had to replace cylinder however it gets power ok when on iet gen light and oil light no issue get flashers etc. The only thing i cant get is wipers but i could not get that before i guess thats a problem i have to explore after its starts i suspect thats the wiper motor gone bad from sittingg so long
 
From the izzy side even after replacig coil and still mot igniting the only thin i did was touch with screwdriver end to test for spark and taking rotor cap of to do that marking hwere to put it back on same position nothing else at all on dizzy end no points messing about etc. The points were i stalled new completely with the refurb a year ago and the car has been fired since 6 times if that so all things are freshly restored and good or should be at least
 
Vitesse aka tony and jjacob has suggested i test the resistance by connecting + and - together and should read up to 3 ohms but i ask now will that be triggered with both connections off and no power? Will it show me ohms like that? Thanks to all for ur help [/QUOTE said:
Follow this rule please.
To measure primary resistance: Label and remove all wires to coil. Using a digital multimeter in the 200 Ω mode, measure between coil’s + and - terminals. Allow a few seconds for the reading to settle.
For best performance, the coil should have a minimum of 7,000 Ohms secondary resistance (measured from coil’s + or – terminal to center high tension terminal, in the 20K Ω mode of the Ohmmeter).

Please measure it also and let us know.

Thomas
Click to expand...
 
jjacob said:
Using a meter, and with the electrical connections removed from the coil, measure the resistance between the + and - terminals. It should be 3.2 ohms +/- an ohm. If this tests good then move to the next test. If it is higher or lower than this range the coil is bad.

Next check the resistance between the big center coil tower terminal and either of the side + or - terminals. Resistance should be 5000 ohms +/- 100 ohms. If much higher value is seen then coil is bad. If very little resistance is seen then coil is bad.

A bad condenser will also keep spark from occurring at the plugs.

I will emphasize again that you need to check that there is 12 volts at the + terminal of the coil while the engine is cranking.
John
Click to expand...

Ok guys here s the latest
Just took the following measurements from new coil on the car I installed Saturday
Firstly my battery reads at the moment 12.56 volts so all charged and good to go.
With ignition ON but not cranking I get
Oncoil + terminal and earth 10.55volt
Oncoil - terminal and earth 10.56 volt

With ignition OFF battery disco d and all coil connections disconnected I get the following ohms
Oncoil + and = @ 200ohm reading I get 3.8 ohms
Oncoil high tension turret and either of + and - connected I get 5.96 ohms

I have tried to crank and record on iPhone whilst doing it as I have no croc clicks for multimeter and I m unsure of readings as I could not put pressure on black cable and ground to get good reading so can't give u that a so and so time lapse I have starts the reading at 10,56 v before cranking and whilst cranking I get a very quick snap of 9.34 or 9.5 and then I lose the camera so wouldn't trust it however it does not look I m getting same reading as battery without cranking

What do I guys think? I do not think the coil has an issue here
 
If I understand correct you measure 5.96ohm from plus or minus to high tension? That should be around 7K ohm or even 5K ohm according to John instructions. I think that you should find/borrow another coil and give it a try? Before you put it measure it also to compare readings.

Thomas
 
I agree with Thomas with those readings on the secondary coil i.e. + or - to the turret, you should be getting about 6kΩ (6000 ohms). The readings you are getting suggest the insulation between the primary and secondary coils has broken down and you have a short circuit between the two now.

Do you still have your original coil that you do the same tests on?
 
Vitesse said:
I agree with Thomas with those readings on the secondary coil i.e. + or - to the turret, you should be getting about 6kΩ (6000 ohms). The readings you are getting suggest the insulation between the primary and secondary coils has broken down and you have a short circuit between the two now.

Do you still have your original coil that you do the same tests on?
Click to expand...

Hi I guys yes you re reading correctly the reading was 5.96 at 200k ohms multimeter scale
I also checked the old coil and read 7.40 ohms at200k multimeter scale however this coil was not on the car but rather on a card box not sure if that makes any difference but things would not start with that original coil either
The primary reading on he original coil was 3.9 ohms
I ordered a Lucas coil last night link below which I hope will be correctly calibrated and tested and hopefully that ll be the end of my issues
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/391202722215?_mwBanner=1
What do I guys think?
 
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Wait a minute, if you measured 5.96 at 200K scale then it is 5960 ohms. NOT 5.96 Ohms. That's close to normal:confused:
 
gordinir8 said:
Wait a minute, if you measured 5.96 at 200K scale then it is 5960 ohms. NOT 5.96 Ohms. That's close to normal:confused:
Click to expand...

Gordinir8 I m confused myself now also- I followed ur last set of instructions that says at 20k scale but wrote down 200k I m not sure if it was one or the other for the current new coil but I am sure the old coil I measured at 20k scale and it gave me the 7.40ohm reading. I think the current one was also a 20k scale reading
 
If you want to measure up to 20000 ohms (our case is 7000 ohms), then you set it to 20K, it can also measured at 200K but you have to be very careful at the readings, you probably have an analog multi meter.
I will dare to say that problem is on that coil, everything up to there is good but then no output.:bang:
Thomas
 
gordinir8 said:
Follow this rule please.
To measure primary resistance: Label and remove all wires to coil. Using a digital multimeter in the 200 Ω mode, measure between coil’s + and - terminals. Allow a few seconds for the reading to settle.
For best performance, the coil should have a minimum of 7,000 Ohms secondary resistance (measured from coil’s + or – terminal to center high tension terminal, in the 20K Ω mode of the Ohmmeter).

Please measure it also and let us know.

Thomas
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention that The coil should have a minimum of 1.5 Ohms internal, primary resistance at + or - terminal
 
I'm concerned that you only get less than 11volts at the coil.....this indicates a supply or earthing issue......it should be identical to battery voltage.
 
If you have 5.96 on the 20k range then that is 5.96kΩ or 5960Ω (Ω=ohms). So that sounds ok now.:confused:

You said the bought the multimeter from Screwfix Mario is it the little black and blue one made by LAP?
 
He has a 2v drop but i guess at 3.8 ohms coil internal resistance this is normal don't you think?
Thomas
 
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