gordinir8 said:

I guess you are probably right, better not say it, i am starting to thinking of putting a secret switch because those cars are easy to stole. I have an idea of using a headphone jack as a key. Maybe after finishing with the engine.

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I don't think a headphone jack is a good idea as it probably be able to handle the current. You could use one of these. I used to have one fitted on my battery but lost the knob that you unscrew. I have just ordered a new one as you brought up the subject and they are very cheap plus you need access to the bonnet to it, so it's adds a little bit more protection but doesn't prevent someone who is really determined.

You simply unscrew the knob and take it with you.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/2319...3D710-134428-41853-0%26rvr_id%3D1151131775481

Veering well off the subject:
On an early 500, most potential joy-rider thieves will be baffled by the need to turn a key and then pull a lever.
I think professional thieves might not even bother to drive the thing...a Fiat 500 does stand out a bit and fits easily onto most trailers and into many vans.
If I understood the Google translation properly, in Italy there are thieves who turn up with transporters to remove cars. Even to people watching, the activity might find it less suspicious than someone fiddling under the bonnet.
I rarely have cause to worry as I live well away from a major city, but if I am away from home and not taking the car I remove the rotor arm, even when the car is in the garage....an old trick. I also do that when I have to park up in a remote spot where a potential thief will have plenty of time do do their best to get the car going.
One thing I have noticed whilst owning all types of old cars, people often feel entitled to try the doors or go right up to the windows and peer in with their greasy hands and noses. So it pays to always lock up and remove keys, valuables etc......just in case.

Hello all

I am in a pretty stuck situation now

I have so fat
1.replaced ignition switch. New one works a treat i get lights flashers generator and oil light
2.replaced coil with new one. No ignition
3.replaced condenser. No ignition
4.took a spark plug out and left it touching exhaust manifold-no spark at all shown i can send you the video
5.took off dizzy cap checked it for cracks and it is all good. Took a video with it off and points seem to close on and off ok but no sparks at all are visible. No ignition

What can i do now? Could someone provide any more insight for troubleshooting the lack of spark at the spark plugs pleasE.

You need to check you have 12v at the + terminal on the coil normally a light blue wire, with the ignition switch on. If you don't have a volt meter and have a spare bulb or take one out of one of lights. Take the blue wire off the coil hold it to the end terminal on the bulb, normally soldered and touch the body of the bulb holder to a decent earth on the car, obviously with the ignition switches on and the bulb should illuminate?

Yeap i get the volt reading ok on voltmeter at blue wire still no spark

Are your spark plug wires at the correct positions? Are you sure they are not reversed? Please check that also.

kampo said:

Yeap i get the volt reading ok on voltmeter at blue wire still no spark

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Do you have the blue wire on the correct coil terminal. I always find it odd that on mine it is the terminal near the rear of the car.
Have you checked that the engine has a good earth return lead to the body, and that it is giving a good connection? In these circumstances you can't assume that the LT current is getting through just because the starter works.

gordinir8 said:

Are your spark plug wires at the correct positions? Are you sure they are not reversed? Please check that also.

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Oh just notice that you dont have a spark at all so this is not the problem.

And here is another, since you changed the condenser check that it's wire is isolated from the rest of the distributor body. There is a small plastic isolator there.

kampo said:

Hello all

4.took a spark plug out and left it touching exhaust manifold-no spark at all shown i can send you the video

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Did you check the spark plug lead only? If yes then check the king lead also, one that goes from the coil to distributor. You can Check it by removing the lead from the distributor cap, remove the cap and test it direct to the top of the rotor.
Come on guys we should start this engine.

Thomas

Hi all

Massively stuck ready to throw it down the cliff

I get 11.6 approx colt on the + of coil. I get approx 9.75 volt when measuring + and - of the coil

I get the same voltage on the cable end connecting to the distributor

When putting a screwdriver on the points with ignition on I get no spark and I sure get no spark on HT lead either

The insulating thingy is there by the distributor and I have made sure the co denser connects ok

There clearly is a problem at dizzy end but I m to my tethers end I have no other idea what to check here

Please can someone helpppp?

Sent you a pm. I need you to measure the voltage on the + and the - of the coil to earth so first + to the red lead of the meter and black to a decent earth on the engine and then do the same with the - to the same earthing point.

Whereabouts are you located Mario?

Please check that there is 12 volts at the coil + terminal while cranking the engine over.
If there is not, the problem is ahead of the coil. Please report back and I can give additional advice.
Also make sure the point faces are clean.
John

Here are the instructions about how to measure ignition coil resistance. Comes from Powerspark ignition ltd site:
Coil:
Standard Lucas or Bosch coil or one of our standard points type coils is recommended. The Simonbbc negative earth module red wire connects to positive ( + or 15 on Bosch coil). The black wire connects to negative ( –ve or 1 on Bosch coil). The coil should have a minimum of 1.5 Ohms internal, primary resistance. For positive earth we have a separate instruction set.
To measure primary resistance: Label and remove all wires to coil. Using a digital multimeter in the 200 Ω mode, measure between coil’s + and - terminals. Allow a few seconds for the reading to settle.
For best performance, the coil should have a minimum of 7,000 Ohms secondary resistance (measured from coil’s + or – terminal to center high tension terminal, in the 20K Ω mode of the Ohmmeter).

Please measure it also and let us know.

Thomas

Mario aka Kampo has been contacting me via email this afternoon I am almost certain his coil is faulty.

He is getting 11.11v on the + terminal of the coil, when he measures the voltage between the + and - terminals of the coil he gets 10.60v, he should get 0v.

Inside the coil joining the + and - terminals it is just a coil of wire, the primary coil, so the voltage on the - terminal should be about the same as that measured on the + terminal, there will be a small voltage drop but very small. So when measuring between the two terminals + & - he should get 0v as the potential difference between the two is zero. So it suggests the primary coil is open circuit between the two terminals.

Using a meter, and with the electrical connections removed from the coil, measure the resistance between the + and - terminals. It should be 3.2 ohms +/- an ohm. If this tests good then move to the next test. If it is higher or lower than this range the coil is bad.

Next check the resistance between the big center coil tower terminal and either of the side + or - terminals. Resistance should be 5000 ohms +/- 100 ohms. If much higher value is seen then coil is bad. If very little resistance is seen then coil is bad.

A bad condenser will also keep spark from occurring at the plugs.

I will emphasize again that you need to check that there is 12 volts at the + terminal of the coil while the engine is cranking.
John

Hello Vitesse i am in central london

Hello all ok so i will check with ignition on the following
coil+ with red voltmeter cable connected and black to a bolt on the car
Coil- with black voltmeter cable connected and black to a bolt on the car
Jjacob you said to see if i get 12 volts whilst crankingand ignition on.. When i test the + to earth with just ignition on i usually get about11.56-11.60 volts with a battery that measure 13.4 wihout the car running-is this normal?
Then when i connect the - of coil to earth with ignition on i get about 9.56 volts

I cant now remember what i get with + and - connecting to gether ..need to check again

At this point as it stands with dizzy cap off i get no spark when touching the points...also tried the first lt issue test from manual and i cannot get light on a lamp connecting the- of the coil to the dizzy when turning engine over slowly
Note that i bought a new coil from a small autoparts store on saturday and replaced it since i too thought he old coil was broken as i would not get any readings on - connection to earth
Vitesse aka tony and jjacob has suggested i test the resistance by connecting + and - together and should read up to 3 ohms but i ask now will that be triggered with both connections off and no power? Will it show me ohms like that?
Thanks to all for ur help
BTW does anyone live close to London at all i mll be very happy to put in the beers if anyone happens to be in the area try to sort this out together?

kampo said:

Jjacob you said to see if i get 12 volts whilst cranking and ignition on.. When i test the + to earth with just ignition on i usually get about11.56-11.60 volts

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I understand that with the ignition "ON" you get voltage at the + terminal of the coil. You need to know if the + terminal of the coil is getting voltage while the engine is being turned over by the starter motor.
Connect your volt meter to the coil. Tape the volt meter to the back window so you can see it while you turn the engine over, or have a helper turn the engine over while you look at the meter.

Also, did you replace the condenser that is attached to the side of the distributor? It looks like the picture attached. If the condenser fails it will cause exactly the problem you are having.
John