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Punto (Mk2/2b) Timing belt check

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Punto (Mk2/2b) Timing belt check

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davemoreton

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Dec 8, 2015
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Hi guys

Ok long story :(

So brought a punto 1.2 03 plate a few weeks ago with hardly any service history. I did notice when buying the car it was a little slow at firing up, I put this down to plugs maybe. However done a full service with HT leads and it's still the same. It's also a little hesitant at going past 60mph.

I have a theory, the seller told me he changed the cam belt, which I believe because you can see the casing around the belt has a broken screw part. Do you think maybe the timing is out by 1 tooth?

I'm going to check it this weekend but wondered how reliable the marks are on the crankcase to the sprockets?

Thanks for any help.
 
Could be out. Happens often. Car starts and runs ok but lacking a bit of zip. There should be two white marks on the back of the belt, one at a gap, one at a tooth that drop onto the pulley marks.
 
Ah cool ok.

I'm gonna replace the timing belt, tensioner and water pump on Sunday so will check it them, wish me luck lol. I might be back Sunday for some advice ?

Cheers
 
The guy before me had only the belt changed, now the tensioner is whinnying! I just thought I would replace the whole lot as its off.
 
Yes 1.2 8v non-interference engine (y)

But for the sake of a few quid its saving myself from possibly being stuck somewhere on the side of a motorway.

I think its worth doing, plus its peace of mind knowing all the cam belt parts have been changed and should be reliable for many years.
 
Have a look at this thread https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-ii/424200-timing-marks-urgent.html

In post #1 the second pic shows the crank pulley out one tooth clockwise. In the correct position the tooth with the timing mark is the first one fully engaged in the belt.
There is a link a few posts down to Dave's helpful timing mark pics. It can be done from marks on the flywheel as well but I have never needed to.
If it turns out the belt is out it's not to far a stretch to think the tension is set wrong as well which does cause noises from the tensioner.
Watch out for the pinhole locator on the alternator belt pulley, make sure the pin goes back in the hole or it won't fire up.
 
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I said I would be back :p lol

Have I been given the wrong belt here?

image1%202.jpg.html


s241.photobucket.com/user/davemoreton/media/image1%202.jpg.html

The new belt is so much bigger and although it seems to fit I can't get very good tension on it.

image2%201.jpg.html


s241.photobucket.com/user/davemoreton/media/image2%201.jpg.html
Also the tensioner looks completely different, I know its an auto one but its really not fitting. Help!

Thanks
 
This was the kit I went for:

eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Fiat_Punto_1.2_2003/p/car-parts/engine-parts/belts-chains-and-tensioners/timing-belt-kit/?348778615&1&4cff74cc3a74398f20f15ced3b146f2dbc7add0a&000332
 
Ok got the belt changed as I wasn't happy with it, running fantastically now ?

However been trying to bleed the bloody thing for about an hour and have now run out of water! Still not heat coming through the cabin!

Will have another go tomorrow.
 
davemoreton;4127545 However been trying to bleed the bloody thing for about an hour and have now run out of water! Still not heat coming through the cabin! [/QUOTE said:
Problem with the Punto is that it doesn't have a proper high up header tank so the bleed points are too low.
There are as many ways of doing it a Grannies have bread recipes. This way works for me when it's being difficult.
Motor cold. Fill the filler to the top of the neck. Get a 500 ml drinks bottle and fill that with coolant. Upend the bottle on the filler neck getting as good a seal as you can. Open the bleeder on the heater hose and squeeze the bottle to blast air out the bleeder. It can lurk a distance from the bleeder so keep at it to be sure to be sure. Close heater bleeder and drop the excess in the filler neck through the bleeder on the rad.
Click to expand...
 
Brendan W said:
Motor cold. Fill the filler to the top of the neck. Get a 500 ml drinks bottle and fill that with coolant. Upend the bottle on the filler neck getting as good a seal as you can. Open the bleeder on the heater hose and squeeze the bottle to blast air out the bleeder. It can lurk a distance from the bleeder so keep at it to be sure to be sure. Close heater bleeder and drop the excess in the filler neck through the bleeder on the rad.
Click to expand...

That worked a treat! first blast with the bottle and finally all the pipe are hot :)

Thanks for your help. (y)
 
davemoreton said:
Ok got the belt changed as I wasn't happy with it, running fantastically now ��

However been trying to bleed the bloody thing for about an hour and have now run out of water! Still not heat coming through the cabin!

Will have another go tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Hi, having the front end of car raised up is supposed to help;)

have heater on RED = max,

undo bleed screws in bulkhead hose AND the rad, cold fill to TOP of expansion tank on side of Radiator,

once brimmed - water should've pushed most air from hoses - so you can tighten the bleed screws,

leaving rad, pressure cap OFF , start engine and idle..(looking for leaks)

after 5 / 10 mins it should've expelled all the trapped air, and you can leave to cool,

once COLD check the level is up to MAX mark on rad expansion tank, replace cap and keep a VERY careful eye on leaks/ levels for the next week,
(if you hold a torch / phone down the side of the expansion tank - it'll light up like a lantern - making the level MUCH easier to see)
small amounts of trapped air will still shift..so don't be surprised if the level tumbles initially, but should be rock solid after a hundred miles of full temp running,
Charlie
 
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