Punto (Mk1) Head Gasket attempt

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Punto (Mk1) Head Gasket attempt

araynel

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Hey everyone, just googled this to get some pointers on changing the head gasket on my 85ELX. It's been giving some problems lately overheating and hard starting (turning), which may have also now created a starter motor issue; funny sounds coming from that area but may just need to take it out and give things a clean and grease. I will be giving it a crack tomorrow (gasket set on the way). Any traps for novice (handyman) mechanic apart from the usual: set up the timing marks on the way in etc..??
 
i'm in the process of doing the same since my 75sx buggered itself before Xmas.
Usual recomendations are to change the water pump, timing belt and tensioner while you're doing the gasket unless theyve been recently changed, as you'll have easy to access to them.
If you don't know the cause of the overheating, mine turned out to be the thermostat failing to open, which you can test by chucking it in a pan of boiling water. the element thingy should open around 80 degrees C, mine didn't so a new one was needed.
I've been put off finishing the job since I discovered the thermostat bolt thread in the cylinder head was stripped, so be careful of that also, i'll be having to use a Helicoil or something to repair the thread.

Wouldn't know about the starter motor myself, but good luck with the rest, there's loads of helpful threads on here (y)
 
i'm in the process of doing the same since my 75sx buggered itself before Xmas.
Usual recomendations are to change the water pump, timing belt and tensioner while you're doing the gasket unless theyve been recently changed, as you'll have easy to access to them.
If you don't know the cause of the overheating, mine turned out to be the thermostat failing to open, which you can test by chucking it in a pan of boiling water. the element thingy should open around 80 degrees C, mine didn't so a new one was needed.
I've been put off finishing the job since I discovered the thermostat bolt thread in the cylinder head was stripped, so be careful of that also, i'll be having to use a Helicoil or something to repair the thread.

Wouldn't know about the starter motor myself, but good luck with the rest, there's loads of helpful threads on here (y)
Cheers Kazer92. Got everything off except the head at this stage. Looks like the top gasket set they have supplied is the wrong one so have to take that back. Not sure how to get at the head bolts... doesn't look as though the rocker cover comes off???
 
the 85 engine is different to the 8v ones... There is 2 parts, the cam box and the actual head. I have never had to take the head off a 16v as of yet though.

You may ask in the cinquecento/seicento section as quite alot of people have stuck the 85 engine in a cento (me included but never had to take the head off it myself so no experience of it)

The 16v engine is covered in the haynes so be a good idea to pick one up or find one online (there is a copy floating about online minus the wiring diagrams at the end)
 
ah of course yeah those are 16v, are they SAFE engines like the 8v in mine?
it was only after I'd mucked up the timing and it failed to start that i found out I couldnt do any damage....
 
no, the 16v is an interference engine so do not mess up the timing!!

You should really use timing kit to lock the cams, at a push you can use a 10mm allen key in the cam lock slots but they are ever so slightly smaller than the slot so it can still be out be a degree or so (not enough for the valves to hit pistons but not bang on).

But to time one you want to lock the cams, then crack off the but holding the cam pulley ever so slightly so it can rotate on the camshaft. then tension the belt and then tighten up the cam pulley. On these engines you don't set to TDC either and nor is there any marks on the crank to show you the right position. The pistons need to be mid stroke - i.e. all completely level and i think from memory that cylinder 1 is on its compression stroke, so no.1 going up and no.2 going down - but i am crap at remembering which one is right. If you get this right before you take the head off it will be miles easier as the pistons will only be level and the cam locking slot visible when its going the right way - if its the wrong stroke the slot will ne 180 degrees and not visible.

And when you done turn the engine over by hand (socket on crank and going the normal running direction of the engine, that is crank turning clockwise so the belt goes downward at front of engine and up and the back) - turn it over 3 or 4 complete revolutions and then check pistons are still level and the cams are in correct place (i.e. does the cam lockers still go in). And only once you are totally happy finish putting it back together and starting the car - If you can't turn the crank and it feels like its locked DO NOT force it, back it off and start from the beginning timing it up.
 
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