By wheel locators which hold hub in place , do you mean the studs 12mm across flats which stop the disc falling off when wheel removed and help locate road wheel when fitting road wheel?

These???... http://m.ebay.ca/itm/Fiat-Dino-Coup...%3A2184cb4f15c0ab6ad3815487ffff908c%7Ciid%3A1

Get them in the scrappy or off fiat...

Thanks Marty,
Of course.
Brian

Or ebay uk
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Lanc...527420?hash=item3f2aa700bc:g:6n8AAOSwnHZYeOrm

Robert G8RPi.

They're not essential. They just make lining up the wheel with the bolt holes a bit easier. Once the bolts are tightened, they serve no purpose. The pain of it is that Fiat dealers only sell them in bags of 5.

widemouthfrog said:

They're not essential. They just make lining up the wheel with the bolt holes a bit easier. Once the bolts are tightened, they serve no purpose. The pain of it is that Fiat dealers only sell them in bags of 5.

Click to expand...

Whilst they have to buy them in bags of 5, they are supposed to sell them singly. Although if not a stock item, they'll insist on you taking the whole bag, so insist on a discount. If they have to order them in, make it a stock order, where their discount is greater.

In that case, my local dealer had me right over, as not only did they tell me I had to buy a bag of 5 of them, but also a bag of five of inner wishbone bolts.

Can't say I've ever been impressed by any of our local Fiat dealers. Always had the feeling they're trying to make a fast buck. Same happened when we were looking to buy a new car for my wife. Didn't end up buying a Fiat and I buy all my spares for the Multi online now.

Many thanks for all the further advice.
Brian

Hi Multi Masters,
I've been following the article of what to do when wheel bolts sheer and am at the stage where i'm ready to remove the hub/knuckle assembly from the shock absorber/coil spring strut (17mm locking nut with 15mm bolt x 2).
I'm sure I'm worrying uneccessarilly but is not this under tension from the coil spring above?
The article says just remove them (after everything else) and the knuckle/hub should slide from the driveshaft spline. But I'm just checking in case I've missed something?
Also whats the best method of removing the lower swivel ?
I've removed holding nut/bolt and tried tapping the arm downwards with club hammer but it appears solid.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Kind Regards,
Brian

It's not under any tension from above(that's all contained in the strut assembly)
First obstacle will be the 32mm nut on the driveshaft... needs to be a long reach thin walled socket and you will need a decent breaker bar.
Next undo the lower pinch bolt onto the ball joint. Then remove the 2 top pinch bolts. Now you should be in a good position to lift the hub assembly off the ball joint.... be really careful not to pierce the rubber gaiter covering the ball joint... if you do then replace it or you'll have balljojnt failure.
Disconnect the abs sensor at connector(removing it from the hub assembly is damn tricky... I managed it but it was real ***** footing!!)
You should be grand!
Marty.

Brian Partridge said:

Hi Multi Masters,
I've been following the article of what to do when wheel bolts sheer and am at the stage where i'm ready to remove the hub/knuckle assembly from the shock absorber/coil spring strut (17mm locking nut with 15mm bolt x 2).
I'm sure I'm worrying uneccessarilly but is not this under tension from the coil spring above?
The article says just remove them (after everything else) and the knuckle/hub should slide from the driveshaft spline. But I'm just checking in case I've missed something?
Also whats the best method of removing the lower swivel ?
I've removed holding nut/bolt and tried tapping the arm downwards with club hammer but it appears solid.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Kind Regards,
Brian

Click to expand...

The coil spring is captive..within the damper..but is HEAVY..!

The lower ball joint has a pin thas passes into the hub..and a clamp bolt.
Undo AND REMOVE the bolt..it pokes into a groove on the pin..locking the wishbone and hub together.

Use a ball joint separator..I now tend to use the tapered CHISEL..type.

Here's some pics might help... you can use a big driver to prise apart the back where ball joint is held... I can't stress enough to be careful not to damage the gaiter!!
Marty

Thanks Marty and Varecrazy, that's really helpful.
I'll persevere tomorrow.
One detail Marty is that you stated 32mm for hub nut, yet article I've been reading on forum states a 36mm socket and I've actually used a 35mm socket (without success yet as I need to get scaffold pole or some such to remove which will mean putting the wheel back on so will have to be next task).
I can't imagine they vary?
Thanks again
Brian

You are spot on it's a 36 alright... I had to machine the wall down on a regular 36 to get it onto the nut as there's v little room... if you can lay your hands on an impact driver it might be the job!!

Using a length of timber to prise the wishbone knuckle downwards makes life a lot easier, both when taking it all apart and when assembling. I use a piece of the CLS that Wickes sell, cut to about a metre long. Jamb the end of it under the subframe mounting bolt that's above the wishbone and skew it across the top face of the wishbone, keeping it as close to the bottom ball joint as you can (avoiding, as Marty says, the driveshaft boot). This will give you a lot more leverage and if you're as lacking in upper body strength as I am, a lot more control when aligning everything upon reassembly.

As for the driveshaft nut, yes it's 36mm and yes an impact socket and driver makes life SOOO much easier. I think I posted a piccy or two about that in an old thread. I struggled for ages with a bar and socket. Having given up, I bought a 240v impact driver and a slim impact socket. Had both driveshaft nuts off inside a couple of minutes.......

Hi,
Well it's been both an eventful and unsuccessful morning.
Having replaced the wheel and attaching large socket to the hub nut I used a breaking bar fully extended to undo nut applying all pressure I could = no success.
Than attached length of scaffold pipe to an old torque wrench which amounted to a metre of leverage = the torque wrench snapped .
Finally did similar with ratchet (can't find my t-bar) = bent the shaft of the ratchet.
I'm trying to upload photos without success but will try again later to show the results of my facile efforts.
Was an impact socket set mentioned (240v?). I've not heard of these but I think I'll be googling soon.
Right - I've had enough.
Off to pub.
B

Treat yourself to a proper 1/2 inch drive 600mm breaker bar , you won't regret it, they are cheap on eBay.
Stand on end of bar rather than hurt your back.

Hi Jackawhoo,
Borrowed one, tried it, stood on it, jumped on it - no movement.
I believe the same garage that overtightened the wheel bolts may have also done the same to this hub nut.
C'est la vie

Hi WideMouthFrog,
I'm interested in the impact driver socket solution.
Will this really shift (in your judgement) my 36mm hub bolt when jumping on a metre length extension didn't move it at all?
Some of them seem to have quarter inch chucks. Surely not man enough.
I'll probably only use it once but am becoming desperate for a solution. Quite happy to purchase if it has a good chance of doing the job.
Thanks

OMG sorry that didn't work for you.
you could try a Draper 24439 Expert 1/2" Sq Dr , hit it with a lump hammer.
Or the 240v impact wrench sold at machine mart and other places they work well but more expensive .
Try tool hire maybe rent you a 240v impact wrench.


It is frustrating when some idiot makes life harder by doing a bad job.