General Front subframe crossmember/crosslink

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General Front subframe crossmember/crosslink

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Jun 12, 2009
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Looks like I've to replace this after our version of mot today....did a lot of work to car last few weeks I n prep for the test but they obviously couldn't find anything so took a hammer to the crossmember and punched 2 holes in it.

Anyway...looks like it will come out handy enough...anyone taken one out that can confirm

It's number 1 here.

http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...=3&WINDOW_ID=1&SGRP_COD=1&SGS_COD=0&DRW_NUM=4

I might take it out and see if I can weld in some plates where it's perforated but my welding isn't that good and I've not welded in a few years.

Anyway advice re removal be welcome.
Cheers,
Marty.
 
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Where's the corrosion? Front subframes don't seem to suffer too much, probably because they're liberally covered in oil leaking from the bottom intercooler hose and gearbox input shaft seal :D.

Leave the ARB on the subframe and just release the droplinks from the ends of the bar. I also left the steering rack attached to it, but that was because I wanted to send the rack away for a rebuild at the same time, so it's probably simpler to remove the two main bolts for the rack (and a smaller M6? bolt that holds one of the steering pipes in place, I think) and leave it hanging from the end of the steering column. Take out the four inner bolts for each of the lower wishbones. The 4 big bolts that hold the box section at the back of the subframe to the body are pretty tight and can have crud stuck to the top ends of the threads, so take it easy when removing them as you don't want to rip the captive nuts out of the body. I expect you already know, but the box section (item 1 in the ePER piccy) is welded to the rest of the subframe that's shown forward of it:

https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/426836-driveshaft-help-2.html?p=4099083

It was a lot easier to remove than I thought it would be. Good luck!
 
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Corrosion is along that box section...there's 2 nice sized holes in it now after the buggers in test centre!
No I didnt know it was welded,..that makes it a whole different job.
I thought 4 bolts and drop it out...

Now I'm concerned!...Christ I really don't need this hassle!

Ok I'll go looking for a replacement. :(
 
Maybe... It might be the handiest way round it.
I need to have a proper poke myself and see haw far back the good metal is.
Marty.
 
Found a replacement for about fifty quid...he says surface rust but sound.. might give it a go(can't inspect it as it's too far)

Am I looking at 2 days work?? ...if so I might consider getting it welded in situ..less hassle plus I won't have to get it tracked.
Marty.
 
Replaced it today.. got a replacement for 65 euro delivered. Anyway all went well, should have put the wishbones on before I put it back.. one was a ball ache to get back on.
A tip for others would be to unbolt the exhaust at the front where it joins turbo and drop the whole lot. I tried to be smart and take out a section. Sheared a bolt so ended up taking the whole thing down and having to drill and tap it. Took me six hours. Could have done it a bit quicker for sure had I done those 2 things.
Would have taken me two days though without this forum ;).
Cheers all.. must get tracking done and send it back in for test.
Marty.
 
Some pics of the rot....
IMG_1478455734.862347.jpg
IMG_1478455755.281072.jpg
IMG_1478455768.999776.jpg

Rest of the subframe was perfect.
Marty.
 
No it's the box section at the back of subframe.. behind steering rack. That's a good bit back from the battery isn't it?... plus the corrosion is on both sides, I'd put it down to poor treatment/coating day one.
Marty.
 
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