Hi all on Thursday I drove to Warrington and back which was 270 miles 2 miles from home the bloody clutch pedal sunk to the floor and wouldn't pump up at all couldn't get any gears or the clutch pedal so had it towed home I believe after asking around it's the master or slave cylinder so gonna buy both my question is could someone plz explain how to replace the master cylinder interns and replace them ?


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If it happened suddenly, it could be the clutch pedal return spring, which is inside the master cylinder barrel, accessed in the drivers footwell. It can be replaced with the master cylinder left in situ.

Fancy red engine cover btw . What type of paint did you use to do that?

Sanded it to rough up the surface primered it and used fiat red orange paint and then lacquered it m8 I luv it ?


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And as of today without the engine running the clutch pedal works like normal but still can't get any gears with engine running I still can't get any gears and clutch pedal still works if I get someone to pump the clutch pedal I can see the slave move the clutch folk but I don't know how much it should move. With the engine off I can here with the bonnet up a strange clonk from where the master is and I have slight fluid loss I guess the master is shagged or maybe a pipe how do I disassemble the master internals plz ? as Optimus I dead I gotta use my other fiat


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https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/300632-clutch-master-cylinder-replacement-help.html

Using the forum Search tool brings up loads of results.

Hi


From my experience with my clutch on my jtd Multipla, the slave cylinder piston moves about 1 1/2 inches from fully in to fully out.


If you've got fluid loss, then I'd be looking for where the fluid is coming out, as if I'm not mistaken, if the master cylinder fails then generally it results in the pedal moving, but it doesn't push the fluid into the slave cylinder, as the seals/ return piston has gone.


Does it go into gear without a battle when the engine's not running? Try looking to see if fluid is squirting out of the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder? As it is under pressure, it squirts out, but due to the force behind it, it never dribbled, so when mine was leaking, the nipple housing was all free from fluid and looked trouble free. It was only when my glamorous assistant was pumping the pedal, that I could see the fluid squirting.


Cheers


James

Hi m8 at this point in time I pulled the master apart and the Spring is in good condition and seals ok it's not leaking. The slave is dry no leaks at all with engine off it drops straight into gear with engine running it goes no where near the gears I assume now prep gaps the release bearing has gone


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Prehaps*


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First off, liking the painted engine cover, and air filter, interested, what air filter is it, in all honesty, do you get any more power, does it ruin the torque delivery in any way, is it louder ie less refined.
OK, I hope not, but sounds like clutch has failed to me, possible clutch splines or snapped fork, that is assuming the slave cylinder moves about 1 1/2" as JamesAtthews mentioned, above (I agree) .
Especially after a long journey...they get very hot, and eventualy give up the ghost, snap, bend, bet its about 80k since its last clutch change..
I've done a few clutches on multis myself, always a pain to do, sometimes tempted to pay someone, but definitely worth it, feels great when its done, potentially another 80k of low cost motoring?
(600 squid garage job, or £200 diy with more tidy tools bought)

Actually just realised, the air filter is taking in hot air from the engine bay, bad for power, especially after long drive, motorway etc.
Plus standard ugly, convoluted air filter draws cold air from front of grill. Still it does look good, gives you loads more space and working area..

Hi


MultiplaAbarth beat me to it. This is how mine went, it was fine, apart from being a pain to get the clutch pedal far enough down to engage the gears. Then all of a sudden, it went, because the clutch slave couldn't move the thin clutch friction plate far enough away from the fly wheel to get it to disengage, still it wasn't too bad as it was the first clutch in it at 178,000!


I did it myself in 2 days last winter, and it wasn't really that bad. Don't get me wrong, not an easy jobs, there's a lot to strip down to get the box out, but as long as you're methodical and you follow the well made how to guide, (credit to whoever made it as it's great) then there should be nothing to trip you up. I did mine for the princely sum of £60 for the clutch plate, drive shaft oil seals and release bearing. I didn't have any special tools, and I used a broom shaft for the alignment tool. Simples...


Cheers


James

Air filter makes no difference m8 except a slight sucking noise.

I hav a new exhaust i made now thts got all the boxes removed so it's straight through, at the front it's a tad loud and at the back it burbles.

As far as the clutch is concerned it's done 127k and it's the original so flywheel is knackered and so is the release bearing and actual clutch , the slave moves over no problem and units rebuilt the master this week with my really bad back its gotta go to a garage to be fixed


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