Hello Peeps.
Ive had this my second Multi just over a couple of months. It has a FSH and done 55k. The last few services were not main dealer. Just this week the oil light has started to flash just after start up and goes on for a minute then stops. I take it that this is the oil change indication ? Now as the last service was not main dealer I take it they did not reset the counter on the ECU, It was only serviced last April and has only done 4k since then!
Can I reset this counter by getting the software and the correct conector, or will I have to take it to a dealer to get this done?

Thamks.
Chris,

I have a '58 reg Eleganza and in my experience, non dealers cannot reset the light - its a main stealer only fix (I believe FIAT will charge £30 -£40 to fix it.). I understand that you can buy and download the software to do it but again, its expensive.
Mine has been flashing on start up for the last 18 months - with no oil usage or running problems, though I admit its annoying!
However, speaking to my local garage, they related a story of a guy with a Punto who had the same issue and thought that the oil must be low so continually filled it up on a journey from Scotland to Bedford - resulting in major engine damage through introducing too much oil.

Nick

N&J said:

I have a '58 reg Eleganza and in my experience, non dealers cannot reset the light - its a main stealer only fix (I believe FIAT will charge £30 -£40 to fix it.). I understand that you can buy and download the software to do it but again, its expensive.
Mine has been flashing on start up for the last 18 months - with no oil usage or running problems, though I admit its annoying!
However, speaking to my local garage, they related a story of a guy with a Punto who had the same issue and thought that the oil must be low so continually filled it up on a journey from Scotland to Bedford - resulting in major engine damage through introducing too much oil.

Nick

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Thanks Nick.
I've downloaded the Multiecuscan software and it looks easy enough to use. You cannot reset the oil light on the free version but on one with a licence you can! The licence is about 40 quid, so given the main dealers would charge this it seems to be a good idea as you can do lots of other stuff as well....so I may well go for it.
Only thing I dont know is which cable i need to get to connect the ECU to my laptop....anyone?
Thanks.

Search for ELM327 on the forum or the web and take your pick. Almost all are Chinese knock-offs. Some work fine, others can give problems, so it's best to go with a recommendation of a specific seller on ebay or Amazon marketplace if you can find one. I paid about £10 off ebay for mine, but that was years ago and I can't remember the sellers name

widemouthfrog said:

Search for ELM327 on the forum or the web and take your pick. Almost all are Chinese knock-offs. Some work fine, others can give problems, so it's best to go with a recommendation of a specific seller on ebay or Amazon marketplace if you can find one. I paid about £10 off ebay for mine, but that was years ago and I can't remember the sellers name

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Thanks for that. In the meantime I contacted the Multiecuscan site and asked them what cable I needed. They told me Vagcom/KLL....? now I am confused !

I took mine to a FIAT stealer and paid the princely sum of £45 quid to sort. Hopefully all done - but....
Before the fix, when the oil light finally ceased flashing after start up there was a small 'bip bip' tone which I presumed was to tell you that you'd ignored the oil light. After the fix, no oil light but the 'bip bip' still happens about a minute after start up.
Anyone any ideas why?

Nick

Schrimy said:

Thanks for that. In the meantime I contacted the Multiecuscan site and asked them what cable I needed. They told me Vagcom/KLL....? now I am confused !

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The ELM 327 is a multiple interface (CAN & KL) and will work with more cars / modules than the Vagcom which is KL only. I recomment the ELM 327. Unless you can solder, go for a "modified" ELM 327 if buying on ebay / Amazon. A USB is better than bluetooth.
ebay item 271275445368 is typical and less than £15.
Or if you are near Cambridge I can do it for you if you bring it to me.

g8rpi said:

The ELM 327 is a multiple interface (CAN & KL) and will work with more cars / modules than the Vagcom which is KL only. I recomment the ELM 327. Unless you can solder, go for a "modified" ELM 327 if buying on ebay / Amazon. A USB is better than bluetooth.
ebay item 271275445368 is typical and less than £15.
Or if you are near Cambridge I can do it for you if you bring it to me.

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Thank you for that. Its just what I needed, good advice, and a kind offer also. I am in the west of gods own county, so Ive ordered a cable....thanks again. Ill let you know how I get on.!

Hello Again.
I got an ELM (modded one) off the bay of fleas, having connected it, it works just fine. I cleared one fault code about the MAF sensor that was not current so no probs. However looking at the other stuff I noticed that the EGR control was set to OFF! so I changed it to ON, as one does. Now does that mean that the EGR valve has not been working????
Thanks.

So anyone got any thoughts on the above?
AlsoI see that in multiecuscan there is the option of inputting the code numbers off each injector. Is there any value to doing this? if so Which cylinder is No 1? is it the camshaft end as you stand in front and look at the engine or the opposite end?
Many thanks.

Hi,
The codes for injectors should already be entered. They allow the ECU to correct for tolerances in the individual injectors. You should only need to re-enter them if you change injectors or the ECU.
Cylinder is No 1 is at the cambelt end, No. 4 is at the flywheel / gearbox end.

Robert G8RPI.

Injectors on the JTD 1.9 aren't coded to the ECU. I'm not sure if that's the case for the JTD-m though

widemouthfrog said:

Injectors on the JTD 1.9 aren't coded to the ECU. I'm not sure if that's the case for the JTD-m though

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My bad, I assumed we were talking about the multijet, which does have calibration values for the injectors.

That fills the gap in my knowledge then. Schrimy's Multi is a 2007, so it will be a Multijet (aka JTD-m).

Well thats all good stuff. Ill have a look for the injector codes when I get plugged in next.
Sop then back to my earlier question about the EGR valve control toggle in Multiecuscan, does this mean that the EGR has been disabled for some time?

Thanks again.

Pass - can't help on that one. What happens if you try to enable it?

Hi,
It's hard to know were in MES you were, but it sounds like you are talking about the actuator section. This allows you to manually operate items like the EGR valve, heater fan etc, but only when you are connected. A screen shot of MES were you are in MES would help. Press Ctrl and PrtScn on your keyboard to copy the screen to the clipboard and then paste it into an editing program (Paint if you have nothing else) to save it. you can then attach it to a post. Note that is you clik on the simulate button, instead of connect, in MES you can play with all the features without having to plug into the car. This also lets you try stuff with no chance of breaking the car.
I'm not aware of a permant way of disabling the EGR with MES.

Robert G8RPI.

g8rpi said:

Hi,
It's hard to know were in MES you were, but it sounds like you are talking about the actuator section. This allows you to manually operate items like the EGR valve, heater fan etc, but only when you are connected. A screen shot of MES were you are in MES would help. Press Ctrl and PrtScn on your keyboard to copy the screen to the clipboard and then paste it into an editing program (Paint if you have nothing else) to save it. you can then attach it to a post. Note that is you clik on the simulate button, instead of connect, in MES you can play with all the features without having to plug into the car. This also lets you try stuff with no chance of breaking the car.
I'm not aware of a permant way of disabling the EGR with MES.

Robert G8RPI.

Click to expand...

Hello Again.
I’ve been busy with other stuff and have not had time to play! So today I’ve been at it again. Yes I’m on the actuators page. But whilst fiddling around I find the on off bit comes on and off on its own dependant on engine revs it appears. So when idling its off. Rev the engine for a while and it will come on.

So on to other things. Thanks for all the advice on MES great stuff. I did an oil light reset. Now no flashy light. I did see that the DPF was 103.5% clogged?? That’s good! I thought. So I ran a regeneration program. Very interesting stuff. Loads of smoke and loads of revs...now it reads 65% so it will be interesting to see if there are any improvements.
Lastly. I also read that the oil degradation was 98%. Now I understood from the previous owner that it had had, an oil change from a dealer at the beginning of the year. She had the paperwork for this, so what does this mean? Oil change I think? Am I right?
Thanks again Peeps.

Hi @Schrimy
Glad to help. Yes the EGR valve goes on and off with revs and engine load. The Oil degradation is backwards, 100% degradation is new oil, 10% degradation is nearly fully used. So at 98% you don't need an oil change for a while.

Regards,
Robert G8RPI

g8rpi said:

Hi @Schrimy
Glad to help. Yes the EGR valve goes on and off with revs and engine load. The Oil degradation is backwards, 100% degradation is new oil, 10% degradation is nearly fully used. So at 98% you don't need an oil change for a while.

Regards,
Robert G8RPI

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Thats good to know. Thank you. So how does the ECU know the oil is OK? does it have some sort of sensor in the sump? or is it just the length of time since the last oil change was done?