Technical 1.9 JTD aux belt removal

amnlincoln · Dec 8, 2014

I tried to change the timimng belt at the weekend but didn't get it done as I wasted a load of time trying to remove the auxilliary belt. No matter what I tried I couldn't lock it up enough to undo th cam pulley bolt. Any tips on how to do this or is it a case of buying a timing tool kit??

widemouthfrog · Dec 8, 2014

Can't say that I've ever had that problem with mine, but an impact driver will probably get the better of it. If you haven't got one, could you drive it to a local tyre fitters without the wheel arch liner fitted and give them a couple of quid to free it off? Then nip it back up with a normal ratchet to drive it back home.

amnlincoln · Dec 8, 2014

Cheers, I tried an impact driver although it has seen better days. Maybe best to buy a new one rather than spending the money on a timing kit then. Am I right in thinking the timing kit isn't really needed on the jtd?

BikeDoc · Dec 8, 2014

You don't remove the large Bolt, just the four small Torx/Star-headed ones . . .

Just cut the aux belt, fit a new one, unless yours is fairly recent.

amnlincoln · Dec 12, 2014

AH right, I removed the small bolts but nothing seemed to move? Couldn't find any instructions online for taking the aux belt off so I assumed the big one needed to come off as well.

Got a new aux belt, any chance you could give me a rough idea of how it comes apart to get at the timing belt? All the instructions I've seen just say "remove aux belt" so I'm assuming it's fairly simple and I'm just being dumb............

Davren · Dec 12, 2014

amnlincoln said:
Got a new aux belt, any chance you could give me a rough idea of how it comes apart to get at the timing belt?

It's probably similar to the Stilo 1.9 JTD auxiliary belt setup. In which case you will need a long 15mm spanner to release and hold the tension of the automatic tensioner. While holding the spanner anti clockwise, remove the auxiliary belt from as many pulleys as possible then release the spanner slowly.
.

amnlincoln · Dec 12, 2014

That looks very similar, thanks! Does the pulley need to come off to get at the cam belt then?

Davren · Dec 12, 2014

amnlincoln said:
That looks very similar, thanks! Does the pulley need to come off to get at the cam belt then?

The auxiliary belt tensioner doesn't need to come off, but the crankshaft pulley (seen behind the spanner in the photo) does.

You only need to remove the 4 outer RIBE bolts of the crankshaft pulley, not the central 19mm bolt. Having removed the 4 RIBE bolts, you may need to tap the pulley gently to get it off the crankshaft.

When refitting the crankshaft pulley, note the very small locating pin in the end of the crankshaft. It must be lined up with the matching hole in the back of the pulley.

You mentioned earlier in this thread about removing the camshaft pulley. You don't need to remove that pulley to replace the timing belt unless you're also fitting a new camshaft sensor and/or water pump.
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amnlincoln · Dec 12, 2014

Excellent info, thanks. Water pump will be changed at the same time as a precaution so I guess the camshaft pulley will be coming off as well

Davren · Dec 12, 2014

amnlincoln said:
I guess the camshaft pulley will be coming off as well

To remove the camshaft pulley you will need some means of holding it still while undoing the bolt. A universal tool is available, such as in this link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-TOOLS-2869-CAMSHAFT-HOLDING-TOOL-/310452240070?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4848653ec6 or, I always use a large screwdriver held through one of the pulley spokes and resting on a step in the cylinder head. If using this method, you may need one person to hold the screwdriver solid, while another loosens the bolt. Loosen the bolt until it's just finger tight while the old timing belt is still fitted.

Next, turn the crankshaft pulley nut clockwise until the camshaft timing mark is aligned with the pointer inside the plastic cover. At this point, the mark in the crankshaft sprocket should be at the 9 o'clock position in relation to the vertical center-line line of the engine. Then loosen the 13mm (spanner size) split lock nut that holds the timing belt automatic tensioner and remove the timing belt. You can then fully remove the camshaft pulley bolt and pulley.
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BikeDoc · Dec 13, 2014

amnlincoln said:
. . . Water pump will be changed at the same time as a necessity . . .

Edited for accuracy . . .

I'm pretty sure whoever replaced the Timing belt on mine, didn't put a new pump in, which is why I found this a couple of months ago . . .

Full story here . . .

Davren · Dec 13, 2014

That reminds me of the old Croma Turbo ie I used to have.

In 2006 I was preparing it to drive to Greece. I'd replaced the timing belt about 3 months previously so thought that'll be OK. Ferry tickets from UK to France and Italy to Greece were booked, then about a week before I left UK, something made me decide to take the cover off to check it.

I'd left a small 10mm bolt loose inside the cover. This is what I found.

I had to rush around to get a new timing belt and crankshaft sprocket PDQ.

.

amnlincoln · Dec 13, 2014

Davren said:
To remove the camshaft pulley you will need some means of holding it still while undoing the bolt. A universal tool is available, such as in this link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-TOOLS-2869-CAMSHAFT-HOLDING-TOOL-/310452240070?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4848653ec6 or, I always use a large screwdriver held through one of the pulley spokes and resting on a step in the cylinder head. If using this method, you may need one person to hold the screwdriver solid, while another loosens the bolt. Loosen the bolt until it's just finger tight while the old timing belt is still fitted.

Next, turn the crankshaft pulley nut clockwise until the camshaft timing mark is aligned with the pointer inside the plastic cover. At this point, the mark in the crankshaft sprocket should be at the 9 o'clock position in relation to the vertical center-line line of the engine. Then loosen the 13mm (spanner size) split lock nut that holds the timing belt automatic tensioner and remove the timing belt. You can then fully remove the camshaft pulley bolt and pulley.
.

Good info and pics will be a massive help, thanks again!

amnlincoln · Dec 13, 2014

Looks like a couple of close calls there! Hoping mine lasts another week or so after seeing those scare stories. I remember when I had a 147 mjet the water pump was always changed so I assume it would be the same on the 8 valve

Does anyone know if you can buy the large ribe bolts that hold the bottom engine stabiliser thing. The heads on mine are corroded badly and it would seem wise to change them if I ever want to be able to take it off again

BikeDoc · Dec 14, 2014

amnlincoln said:
. . . Does anyone know if you can buy the large ribe bolts that hold the bottom engine stabiliser thing? . . .

I'd be surprised if you couldn't get them from a Fiat Dealer, I wouldn't be surprised if they charge you a couple of body parts for them though

Take them to a local fastener suppliers, see if they can match them, they needn't be Ribe, Allen heads will be fine.

amnlincoln · Jan 10, 2015

Thanks for all the help with this. I'm pleased to say both belts were successfully changed last weekend. Old timing belt looked ok but I have no idea how long it had been on there so it had to be done.

Unfortunately I went to get 2 new tyres today and when I drove away from the garage there was a big bang followed by lots of knocking and banging. It appears as if the gearbox mount has snapped which caused the drive shaft to pop out of the gearbox and also puncture the intercooler!

It never rains.........

This car is starting to turn into a nightmare!

BikeDoc · Jan 11, 2015

Ah C**P!
Feel for you, I really do . . .

Front left mount failure is fairly common, my original Multi's mount had separated (Rubber from housing), the casing was split, and it was all badly corroded, but luckily didn't fully fail before I found it.

'Box mount

Another

amnlincoln · Jan 12, 2015

Thanks, wish I had known it was a common problem and I would have checked earlier. Anyway the garage called back today with a price, £675

they said they could only get genuine fiat parts.

Ordered from shop4parts at £205 and then had to cancel when I found the intercooler for £70+ cheaper. So parts are now £132 with 2-3 hours labour at £48 an hour. Should be a much more palatable £250-300

widemouthfrog · Jan 12, 2015

What have you paid out for with S4P? Gearbox mounts for the JTD are now readily available and cheap:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIAT-MULTIPLA-1-9-JTD-1-9JTD-GEARBOX-ENGINE-TOP-REAR-MOUNT-MOUNTING-1998-/331099553786?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AMultipla&hash=item4d17123ffa
A few months ago they were virtually unobtainable, except from Fiat.

Ooops, misread your post. I'll leave the link anyway. Be careful with stuff from ziggy-a2z (ebay). I bought a load of bits from them once. All of it wore out within 18 months. Mostly cheap 'n' nasty.

amnlincoln · Jan 12, 2015

Cheers for the tip. Can't see ebay at work so not sure what the price is. Originally the shop 4 parts was £168 for intercooler and £37 for mount. Kept the mount but managed to get an intercooler for £95 for mister-auto.co.uk

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